Mopar1973Man

Just get a can of UV dye and use a black light over the piping... If you don.t find any UV dye in the engine bay then its in the HVAC unit under the dash that simple... This when I pulled the pipe apart and there was still a puff of freon left...

That's the thing... The high/low pressures will change as weather changes. Like pressures will get lower as the weather get colder. Then the pressures will rise as the weather warms and the under hood temps rise it will push it higher... Tell you the truth... If you do a bit of reading there is a point where less is better. As long as the evaporator is not flood with liquid freon it will get colder. Basically the lower the low side pressure the colder the A/C will get. But the low pressure switch is the limiting factor. This keeps enough pressure in the system so the evaporator can't freeze. So it continually sweats instead. So if you got enough freon to keep the compressor running constant at say 1,500-2,000 RPM's then I wouldn't sweat it... Just chill out... (Yeah I was being punny)

Hmmm... You still have a restriction some where... Typical fuel pressure drop on a 150 GPH pump should be only 2-3 PSI tops. Just for food for thought my old Carter stock pump new use to drop 4-5 PSI on stock plumbing. Then switch over to the Vulcan Big like Kit and stock Carter and only had 2-3 PSI drop... Then upgrade to a AirDog 150 now only 1-2 PSI drop. But seeing a 8 PSI drop from Idle to WOT there is something wrong...

Johnfak... Remember your exhaust housing is much smaller (9 cm2) than his Common Rail (not sure of the exhaust housing size) so you drive pressure will rise quick on the high end... This is what called the choke point when the DP rises about that 1:1 ratio.

OUCH... That just too low... Keep it in the green...

About right... If your looking for the pressure tables they are located in the Dodge FSM...

Actually it all fits under the hood fine... As for the bolts you can use them to hold your heat shiled in place. Then while mounting the heat shield use backing nuts to hold the plate up a bit more so the top nuts are flush... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/bhaf/bhaf.htm

Russ, I get so damn tongue-tied trying to come up with the right words to say to you... They all seem so inadequate. You're one helluva great guy and it tears me to pieces to see this damn diease putting you out of commission on a daily basis... If the miles were shorter between Idaho and RI you know I'd be there as quick as my Dodge could get me. But I'm stuck! At least ISX stepped up to the plate and offered to do the electronics wiring for ya. I really don't know what else to say...

Thats odd... Like ISX pointed out typically its a 1/8" NPT...

Bad selector switch in the dash?

P0215 - VP44 failure - http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2561-P0215-Fuel-Injection-Pump-Control-Circuit P0122 - APPS Sensor - http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2556-P0122-Accelerator-Position-Sensor-(APPS)-Signal-Voltage-Too-Low P1475 - +5 Volts too high - http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2623-P1475-Aux-5-Volt-Supply-Voltage-High P0236 - Map sensors too high too long - http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2570-P0236-Map-Sensor-Too-High-Too-Long Well just looking at the codes P0215 requires a new injection pump. I'm going to assume the P0236 code is caused from the P1475 code that might just be a ECM problem. P0122 might be just a wore out APPS sensor but I would deal with the P1475 first.

Novice Question... Why would you do this?

As much as the older 12V's don't require a fuel pressure gauge but its extremely nice to have at least a test gauge for fuel system testing/daignostics.

No you don't then you'd be breaking stuff all the time...

Pulled the pump? Which one the VP44 or the lift pump? Hows the fuel pressure at the time?

Here you go ISX I found the document about testing the magnets. http://dexteraxle.com/i/u/1080235/f/6-8K_Service_Manual_9-10/Electric_Brakes_9-10.pdf (Pages 20-22)

Well at least its fixed...

Unless there is a bad magnet in the hub that not quite shorted out but got issues... OL - Overload - High Current Draw So in my mine I'd look towards the magnets and might have to open the wiring up under the trailer and test each magnet for amp draw. See if you got one magnet that is drawing a bit heavy...

Hmmm... I wish I known that I would of had you test your fuel pressure and see if there was a blown overflow valve or maybe picking up air in the fuel.

I've got a Prodigy P2 and so far like it... No problems with setting the gain. I kind of like it because when I start out with cold brakes I can up the gain a bit and still have strong trailer brakes. Then as they warm up roll back and be good. But I alway check my setting before I leave.

No polarity... But for your information Black/Light Blue is GROUND And Black/Red is the +5 Volt signal from ECM. Just no OPEN or SHORTS allowed!

BS you are... I'm at 181K head to 182K really quick... Now that the roads and weather are getting better I'm able to get out of the valley more... As for my mess... As for the 50K milestone I made up my mind and became my own warranty station. (Bye Bye Dodge Dealer!) [*]Front Drive Shaft - 27K (Warranty) [*]Rear Pinion Seal - 27K (Warranty) [*]Multi-function Switch - 35K (Warranty) [*]Air Horns - 46K [*]Reverse Lights - 46K [*]Crankcase Vent Mod was Born - 48K (Certified by my dealer) [*]Gauges - 48K [*]Lift Pump Replaced - 48K (Warranty) [*]VP44 Replace - 50K (Warranty) [*]Exhaust Brake - 50K [*]Muffler Delete - 55K [*]BHAF - 60K [*]Vulcan Big Line Kit - 79K [*]Lift Pump Replaced - 79K [*]Edge Comp - 92K [*]Lift Pump Replaced - 93K [*]Frantz Filter - 106K [*]AirDog 150 Installed - 133K [*]Fuel Gauge Sender - 136K [*]RV275 Injectors - 160K [*]Starter Contacts - 180K (As well there is stuff missing here) Looking down the road at... (currently at 181K on the clock) [*]Gear case gasket and crank seal [*]Replacing my Evaporator again (Warranty) [*]Doing my first brake pad replacement

I swear I did!

Yeah like you found out the stock injector pressure is 310 bars. As for the 100ish HP sticks well the only thing I can think of is smoke and control. 100 HP stick will for sure dump some smoke. I wounder if you getting that over advancement of timing where the injection rattles to beat hell. I typically hear the heavy knock in the winter time without winter fronts. But this is my first winter with my MPG fooler in place, winter fronts and IAT set at 140*F. Rattle is nearly gone.