Mopar1973Man

Hmmm... I would just bar the engine over by hand and see what happens... If a cylinder is flooded you'll feel it...

I got a guy that has been in touch with me by email and been trying to figure out his CCD Bus problems. So far nothing I suggested works. Currently he can see the 2.5 and 2.4 vold bias voltage at the OBDII port he's only got the ECM and PCM plugged in to the bus all other modules (Radio, ABS, AirBag, etc.) are unplugged to try and isolate the problem. But still it will not communicate... The engine will start and run... Tachometer functions but all other gauges are dead. No AirBag or ABS lights... But unable to read error codes at all. I'm hoping one of you might have an idea...

Well that is a important factor to make sure you reach operation temp before you get to your destination... Yea if I was only ot drive you distance I would for sure keep it plugged in too.

Thanks for the reminder that one tends to escape me at times... But W&F is right double check everything that can be cancelling the high idle from starting...

Yea... The stock gauge is not a very accurate measure of pressure...

Cracked head most likely... Way to check is to disconnect the return line at the rear of the engine (quick connect) and then pressurize the coolant system with 15-18 PSI using a cooling pressure kit. The crack would be from the coolant jacket to the fuel return rail that runs out the back of the head.

2 main issues with isolators... 1. Lose coolant and drops low.2. Inaccurate readings. After had a few call me at different states of problems typical what happens after they plumb directly to fuel the number always changes (goes higher!) Usually I tell them to re-test without the isolator and 99% of the time the pressure was fine it was just the isolator either lost coolant or damaged internally some how. But only 2% of the people actually go back through the trouble of reseting the diaphram and reloading and priming with coolant. But once again owners choice. The other issue with isolators is cost... A needle valve is only $8 bucks at a NAPA store isolators range from $40 to $60 bucks.

No problem here I must of got lucky on mine I still got the factory trim in the only drilled 1 hole to attach with bolt and nut...

Myself... I'm looking down the barrel of pan gasket, vacuum pump seal, and gear case re-seal... Lower end of the engine is getting well messy... Sure ain't my puke bottle... (Don't have one! )

You should be able to post pics...

Ok... You got to remember the high idle onlly starts if the IAT temperature is below 32*F. So when you turn your key on and sitting there looking at the light the grid heaters are heating up to a nice 500*F or more. So when you fire up the truck now this heat is draw into the manifold area and heating the IAT sensor rapidly. So now even thoug it 8*F outside now the grid heater continue to go on and off heating the manifold. Which maybe still holding the IAT temps up for quite a while. So if you leave it idle for more than 5-10 minutes the ECM should time out the grid heaters and then the manifold temp should start to drop and engage the high idle software. As for the high fooler mod that forces the ECM to see either 26*F (6 cyl) or 13*F (3 cyl) and forces it to engage now. Not after the grid heaters have run there game. The whole trick is about getting the ECM to see these temp for a extended time right away so high idle is started sooner. So warm up starts sooner...

Well if you want to call Marsing, ID rural... Hey at least its only a few minutes drive to WalMart for them... As for the mobster... Hell he fits in with everyone down in Canyon County... http://maps.google.com/maps?q=marsing+id&rls=com.microsoft:en-us&oe=UTF-8&startIndex=&startPage=1&um=1&ie=UTF-8&hq=&hnear=Marsing,+ID&gl=us&ei=pC9UTbOjII7msQO8pICUCQ&sa=X&oi=geocode_result&ct=image&resnum=1&ved=0CBQQ8gEwAA (Just zoom out a bit and you'll see there just a sub-burb of Nampa/Caldwell area)

OMG... Geez I feel the love... I knew you could resist could you???

Who? Linky?

Not bad at all...

Oh I wish I would of known that... Because I already been down that road when it can to my batteries here as the house. I had 1 that failed for sure but the other 7 where right behind it so no matter what I did for the other 7 batteries I couldn't keep them... Yea.. I would of told you to replace both at the same time...

Never done it before... But actually I think there is something in the path of the door hanging it up. The door can be seen in this pic between the heat core and the A/C Evaporator...

Thing is there might be a problem with the diverter door as said. Maybe a piece of foam is hung up. If you remove the stepper motor you should be able to grab the diverter door and twist it back and forth. Problem is you need to re-calibrate it for position.

Be a good idea and a starting point...

The engine got to be cold when you plug it in... A warm engine will make no noise. I would try and measure the block temp before you plug in the heater and then measure the block temp after several hours. Thats all I can say...

Actually the grid heaters are helpful to get it to fire on all 6 cylinders. But it does nothing for warm of the engine being that after 2 minutes its cancelled anyways (ECM timed out) or if you exceed 20 MPH it will shut down. What it all comes back to is the EGT's temps pure and simple... If you got better than 350-400*F it will burn clean... Below that its just too cold for idling...

Thanks Rogan... I'm going to check out RockAuto.com later on and see what hey have to offer...

Good gawd... I'll keep my $3.709 a gallon... Ummm... I'll frieght you some out for a price?

As far as anyone in the 500K and up class I've now got a hall of fame for the milestones... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/milestone/milestones.htm So if you can show me proof of your high mileage I'll add you to the list...

Just though of another issue might effect this problem... What is the size of your extension cord? Like I've got my RV sitting in the yard and plugged into 120 VAC (actually 123-125 VAC out here) and have a small electric heater inside with my DVM plugged into the wall socket and turn the heater on the voltage falls to 105 VAC turn it up on high and it falls again to 98 VAC. This is 16 AWG shop extension cord at a total distance of 100 feet. But now switch over to a heavy shop extension cord the voltage loss is less. So if you got too light of a extension cord ran to far (too long) it might reduce the over all voltage supplied to the block heater.