Mopar1973Man

Sitting and idling in traffic with high IAT temps will not effect the performance because it not rolling anyways... MPG is 0 just sitting at a traffic light. Stop and GO traffic is harsh no matter what the IAT temps are. The other factor is no matter what you want to plumb for cold air intake you got to remember the entire manifold of the 24V has a coolant passage under it not to mention having a coolant pass within 3 inches of the IAT temp sensor now. EDIT: The freeze plug I've been told is intake manifold.

Yeah but if the intercooler is doing its job the IAT temp should follow a +40 offset normally. So what the turbo inhales for air will be cooled back down by the intercooler. So even on a 100*F day I've never seen over 140*F on the IAT while cruising. This is with the A/C going as well. What counts is what the IAT sensor sees not what the turbo is inhaling... But flipping the page again the 24V does do much better with a hot IAT temps for MPG's though... Much better than cold... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/3231-MPG-fooler-Design-phase

I did my month inspection and found my front crank seal is starting to leak and I'm down about a pint of oil since my oil change. The bottom of the oil pan is wet in behind the belt pulley and the face of the pan there... Then back at the cross member that goes under the pan is wet... Ok Burks... I'm going to be done front seal off your write up... I need to gather up the parts and get some better weather for working. Just way to cold to work in the shop.

I'm hooked up to the PDC not the battery... Less acid to corrode the wiring...

Switch is on the transfer case... I going to bet there is either a pinched wire or a damaged switch or mount.

Ok... Do you phyically have spark at the plugs? Good blue spark? How about smell of fuel after being crank for a good period? Tailpipe should be strong smell of fuel. 100 PSI is a bit marginal but should still run. If you used starting fluid that should of got a kick of the plugs are firing... I would back track the ignition and be sure of the plug firing consistantly. Remember if you flood the cylinder the plug will be wet and will not fire. --- Update to the previous post... Went digging...

Yeah but like I found out this method doesn't work. Because now you've push the debris between the puck and the bore and it binds up. The only way to get the debris out really you just got to open the caliper and clean them. But when you got 100K miles on the caliper it not a bad idea to open them up and service them rather be safe than sorry... Got me there with the pins...

Sorry your NAPA link didn't hold up... (NAPA web site is known for this) Tell you the true if you can get your hand on a exhaust brake you'll get the mileage from your brakes. I'm at 181K miles and still never done a brake job. Rotors are in good condition not warped. Pads are wore down bout still very serviceable yet. I just might make it to 200K miles before doing a brake job. As for the stock caliper they are good design. Just that over time the brake fluid cakes up on the piston pucks and starts to bind up the pistons so the brakes drag. If you want to fix this problem it really cheap and easy. Just disassemble the calipers completely wash everything and blow dry all the parts. Replace your seals ($8 buck a piece from the dealer) Check your pucks for binding without seals in the caliper. If the piston falls to the bottom of the bore without pushing then the piston to bore is fine. But if it hangs up take some light sandpaper and sand the puck a little at a time you'll notice the brake fluid residue comes off. Once they fall to the bottom of the bore on there own you good... Just re-assemble them and bleed the system. Fresh rebuilt calipers for much less.

Here you go... I did the testing of several common value resistors and got the IAT temp values for you. I can tell you that the 3rd band will always be RED And the first band should never be BLACK or BROWN Values used for IAT Fooler in High Idle Design 13*F - 56K Ohms - Green/Blue/Orange 26*F - 39K Ohms - Orange/White/Orange Tested Values for MPG Fooler 87*F - 7.4K Ohms - Violet/Green/Red 91*F - 6.8K Ohms - Blue/Grey/Red 100*F - 5.6K Ohms - Green/Blue/Red 107*F - 4.7K Ohms - Yellow/Violet/Red 112*F - 4.3K Ohms - Yellow/Orange/Red 119*F - 3.6K Ohms - Orange/Blue/Red 123*F - 3.3K Ohms - Orange/Orange/Red 127*F - 3.0K Ohms - Orange/Black/Red 132*F - 2.7K Ohms - Red/Violet/Red 143*F - 2.2K Ohms - Red/Red/Red <- Currently using 148*F - 2.0K Ohms - Red/Black/Red Unsafe Values - Don't Use! - Documenting values for tesing purpose! 163*F - 1.5K Ohms - Brown/Green/Red 173*F - 1.2K Ohms - Brown/Red/Red 184*F - 1.0K Ohms - Brown/Black/Red Also the IAT page was update with this information... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/iat-sensor/iat-sensor.htm --- Update to the previous post... HTML page created to give more exposure to the theory and hopefully bring ther into trying the idea... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/mpg-fooler/mpg-fooler.htm

I produced a video this morning of me plowing out the driveway. But here is the trick I added a 1 second time lapse to the video so every second the camera shot 1 frame of video it takes 30 frames to make a normal second. So this short 2 minute video is what it took me about 1 hour to do. The lag at the begining is me leaving to the neighbor house and getting his ATV and plow and doing his place first. Here you go... Then a walk in the yard to show you more... Then a time lapse of the sky from 12 noon to sunset.

That always throws me for a loop...

Yeah if you sucking air into the fuel it will cause white smoke or low fuel pressure. Then on top the P0216 code will produce white smoke.

Those are rough values I got from another web site long ago... Here is a few I've test for sure... Orange - White - Red - Gold = 3.9K Ohm = 116*F IAT Red - Violet - Red - Gold = 2.7K ohm = 132*F IAT Red - Black - Red - Gold = 2.0K ohm = 148*F IAT

So get the rest of the error codes and add some fuel back...

Sure... Ask away! I gather its a gasser? If so you need to check your basics. 1. Is there fuel? 2. Is there spark? 3. Is there compression?

It seem like this is a big problem for the early version fuel filter of them leaking right there. Good to hear you found a solution to fix it... Most likely cheaper than what I'm going to post next... Here is a fix a guy on the phone today told me about which is still a bit pricey but its a complete kit with Fleetguard spin on filter, heater, etc... http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/product.aspx?pf_id=MK109852-BLKH

Ummm... first off... Get the rest of the codes... P1693 code means more codes are present... P0500 code explained here (bottom of the page) http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/abs/abs.htm Also whats your fuel pressure like?

when you are in deep $h!t, look straight ahead, keep your mouth shut & say nothing.

132 Liters = 35 Gallons (Roughly speaking) $5.85 x 35 Gallons = $204.75 to fill up... Man I feel for you THRacing...

At any rate it would be best to just move over to the big line kit and relocate the lift pump down on the frame...

Once again thank W&F for the next set... MoparMom and I watch the last set of video last night... Yeah in Idaho prices are going up already... We are already seeing increases with groceries at the local stores and watching the fuel prices rise as well...

Switch servers?

Well I know from personal experince cold air is not your friend 24V Cummins burns much better with warmer air say 100-140*F IAT temp so at 5*F I bet the IAT is about 45*F. At those conditions and that amount of weight yes 7.5 MPG. Now if you were to jump into the IAT mod I think you can gain back some MPG's... Brake drag does come on rather slowly and eat away at you MPG numbers quickly... I would just brake down all 4 wheels and disassemble and clean all brake parts really good and be sure that all part fit properly without binding up. Just my trip down to Boise, ID with my Jayco trailer (no IAT mod) I got got barely 9.9 MPG. With outside temps around 10*F to 20*F for the day. Kept my speed to 55-60 MPH and was seeing the same kind of pyrometer temp except when I climbed over Midvale grade 6% grade at 60 MPH I was looking at 1,100*F and 32 PSI of boost. After talking to CajFlynn he suggested I back out and limit to 20 PSI boost at anytime this reduces the chance of driveline failure and slight gain back to MPG's.

That strange... In 5-10 miles with my winter front I'm at 190*F. Using a cheap NAPA thermostat. Then my heater blows 140-160*F air in the cab. I actually seen the inside cab temp above 100*F before when I was sick. But it felt so good. But my hunch is that the heater core is plugged up... That's because of the coolant going south. It becomes acidic or basic over time and starts eating the metals of the cooling system which produces those big white blooms in the radiator. Trust me it's not the water.... I'm using creek water now for over 9 years of my truck and absolutely ZERO issues... This is where my water comes from at this little dam. And my cooling system is good at 100K miles... Then at 170K miles Not bad... So this proves it all about keeping fresh coolant in the engine more so than worrying about the water...