Mopar1973Man

I think a good magnet glue to a PTO cover might be just as a good idea trapping all the metal on the magnet. But the only thing it won't deal with is any almunium or brass...

My top speed is 55 MPH but I'm now getting 23-24 MPG as the weather warms up. Still have my winter front on and my MPG fooler going. In Idaho there is no minimum speed limit so if I wish to drive 55 MPH in a 65 MPH zone no one can say word including law inforcement. The only rule I must adhere to is if I'm holding up more that 3 vehicles I must yeild to traffic flow. From experiementing around here I found the best speed gear combo is 45 MPH in 4th Gear (1:1 Ratio) (~1,900 RPM) with 3.55 gears will get you really close 30 MPG. But that is way to slow for my blood.

I got suckered...

Being that all diesel engine rely on having pressurized fuel to fire the injectors to make them start. So typically I ask for fuel pressure and error codes to see if there is something else wrong. If there is no error codes then all the electrical and electronics are considered good and operational. So that means its all fuel pressure from there on out...

P0500 doesn't need much of a tire spin. Ok to explain the P0500 a bit better it like your sitting in a driveway and waiting for traffic to clear and you get a gap and BAM! Get into the throttle and get rolling. Ok what just happened? There is 2 sensors in the front axle monitoring front tires speed and there is 1 sensor on the top of the rear axle housing. So now when you launch from a stop and the rear tire slip or spin slightly the speed will rise on the rear speed sensor say to 10-20 MPH and the front axle is showing 5-8 MPH... POOF! P0500 error code set. The rest it set is because the ABS computer can't understand how half a truck is going twice as fast as the other half and the brakes are not even pressed?! (Computer goes nuts produces a error code). As for errors reseting themselve its possible to do but the ECM and PCM require 40 warm up cycles to clear 1 code. A warm up cycle is going from a cold engine past 160*F without throwing the same code again. So the next warm up cycle will be at the next cold start from temps below 140*F.

Yeap I'm using push loc's on my AirDog and they are awesome fitting... No you don't need clamps they are solid fittings. But to make lift easier dip the ends of the rubber hose in boiling water and place the fitting on the floor and place the end of the hose to it and lay your body weight into it. POP!

P0234 is a over boost condition (Bully Dog is not boost fooling in stock position)P0522 is a low oil pressure problem (bad sensor maybe)P0500 is a speed sensor error (spin your tires did we???)P1693 Companion code

Even the dodge FSM states that the exhaust gases have to be at least 1,000*F for regen effect to happen for the DPF...

Wild & Free is in North Dakota...

Like what I did was added a dye pack to it. Then using compressed air charged the system to about 80 PSI which is enough to cycle the compressor. Run it for a short time 1-2 minutes to cycle the dye through and shut off. Then get out a black light and look. In both cases now no dye is visable in the engine area. So this means the evaporator is the cause of the leak... Thank goodness NAPA has a lifetime warranty on the evaporator...

That why they go out ot the HTML pages so they are not lost in the vBulletin MySQL database of hell...:banghead:

Well ISX I guess we better warm up the cameras and hit the shop a bit more eh??? Matter of fact I want to redo a bunch of video and such for the site some of the information is old and needs a fresh video.

My Bad... I didn't pay attention... Fuel rail is typically expensive... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/dealers/dealers.htm

Ouch... Ummm... You might hit the vendors here on the site and see if they have any sales or deals... I know some of the mechanical gauges can be had for as a cheap as $35 to $40 bucks if you shop around. Autometer happen to be the most expensive brand for sure. As for the fuel pressure its normally hooked up after the filter (bottom of the stock filter can). I would say typical good fuel pressure is right around 12-15 PSI for even a common rail.

That sound like a mess... Glad you got it fixed though...

A valid thread could be asking questions about your truck and things you don't understand. Or maybe you got experience with something and you can help someone else out. The problem I have is that lots of people come over here to snag information and books and haul it off to other sites. All I'm asking it give some effort on your part toward the community and help others and you will recieve help as well... Simple really... But it upsetting to the community to have someone come in post once and snag the books and disappear... It's not fair to the members that have donated information and funds to the community to have a member leech and run... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leech_(computing) In computing and specifically on the Internet, a leech or leecher is one who benefits, usually deliberately, from others' information or effort but does not offer anything in return, or makes only token offerings in an attempt to avoid being called a leech. In economics this type of behavior is called "free riding" and is associated with the free rider problem.

(Bright ideas coming on)

Injectors are pretty common to fall on the common rail engines. Yeah the link you got is the service manual for the 2005 Dodge Ram. That will show you how to do it.

Still a accurate reading its just the water hammer is filtered out. Here is a short video of how to set it... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=M33ZCc8b-7Q

Thank you DobbieNut... But you got to remember I couldn't do without all of you guys. I've learned something from every single member here.

http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=YgSuH9txH4U

JohnFak is right... No to the additives... But it would be a better idea to used good quality filters to protect you fuel system. Ask AH64ID about the filter list and he'll get you going in the right direction. But if you want to keep them clean hitch up a heavy trailer and go drag it up hill and get the pyrometer up nice and hot for several miles. Carbon burns off at roughly 1,000*F... Hence injectors cleaned...

Very good tidbit thanks W&F!

DING DING DING!!! Absolutely correct...