Mopar1973Man

Bad selector switch in the dash?

P0215 - VP44 failure - http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2561-P0215-Fuel-Injection-Pump-Control-Circuit P0122 - APPS Sensor - http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2556-P0122-Accelerator-Position-Sensor-(APPS)-Signal-Voltage-Too-Low P1475 - +5 Volts too high - http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2623-P1475-Aux-5-Volt-Supply-Voltage-High P0236 - Map sensors too high too long - http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2570-P0236-Map-Sensor-Too-High-Too-Long Well just looking at the codes P0215 requires a new injection pump. I'm going to assume the P0236 code is caused from the P1475 code that might just be a ECM problem. P0122 might be just a wore out APPS sensor but I would deal with the P1475 first.

Novice Question... Why would you do this?

As much as the older 12V's don't require a fuel pressure gauge but its extremely nice to have at least a test gauge for fuel system testing/daignostics.

No you don't then you'd be breaking stuff all the time...

Pulled the pump? Which one the VP44 or the lift pump? Hows the fuel pressure at the time?

Here you go ISX I found the document about testing the magnets. http://dexteraxle.com/i/u/1080235/f/6-8K_Service_Manual_9-10/Electric_Brakes_9-10.pdf (Pages 20-22)

Well at least its fixed...

Unless there is a bad magnet in the hub that not quite shorted out but got issues... OL - Overload - High Current Draw So in my mine I'd look towards the magnets and might have to open the wiring up under the trailer and test each magnet for amp draw. See if you got one magnet that is drawing a bit heavy...

Hmmm... I wish I known that I would of had you test your fuel pressure and see if there was a blown overflow valve or maybe picking up air in the fuel.

I've got a Prodigy P2 and so far like it... No problems with setting the gain. I kind of like it because when I start out with cold brakes I can up the gain a bit and still have strong trailer brakes. Then as they warm up roll back and be good. But I alway check my setting before I leave.

No polarity... But for your information Black/Light Blue is GROUND And Black/Red is the +5 Volt signal from ECM. Just no OPEN or SHORTS allowed!

BS you are... I'm at 181K head to 182K really quick... Now that the roads and weather are getting better I'm able to get out of the valley more... As for my mess... As for the 50K milestone I made up my mind and became my own warranty station. (Bye Bye Dodge Dealer!) [*]Front Drive Shaft - 27K (Warranty) [*]Rear Pinion Seal - 27K (Warranty) [*]Multi-function Switch - 35K (Warranty) [*]Air Horns - 46K [*]Reverse Lights - 46K [*]Crankcase Vent Mod was Born - 48K (Certified by my dealer) [*]Gauges - 48K [*]Lift Pump Replaced - 48K (Warranty) [*]VP44 Replace - 50K (Warranty) [*]Exhaust Brake - 50K [*]Muffler Delete - 55K [*]BHAF - 60K [*]Vulcan Big Line Kit - 79K [*]Lift Pump Replaced - 79K [*]Edge Comp - 92K [*]Lift Pump Replaced - 93K [*]Frantz Filter - 106K [*]AirDog 150 Installed - 133K [*]Fuel Gauge Sender - 136K [*]RV275 Injectors - 160K [*]Starter Contacts - 180K (As well there is stuff missing here) Looking down the road at... (currently at 181K on the clock) [*]Gear case gasket and crank seal [*]Replacing my Evaporator again (Warranty) [*]Doing my first brake pad replacement

I swear I did!

Yeah like you found out the stock injector pressure is 310 bars. As for the 100ish HP sticks well the only thing I can think of is smoke and control. 100 HP stick will for sure dump some smoke. I wounder if you getting that over advancement of timing where the injection rattles to beat hell. I typically hear the heavy knock in the winter time without winter fronts. But this is my first winter with my MPG fooler in place, winter fronts and IAT set at 140*F. Rattle is nearly gone.

Comments in RED... Phone call are welcomed... Help yourself to the phone and I'll do what I can... If not I'll find someone that can...

Last time I talked to him it was 966,xxx... Bring it home...

Hmmm... I would do a valve adjustment first off just to see if there is any really loose lash. Now if you find a super loose one you might take the pushrod out and check and see if it's bent. Lay it on a flat counter and roll it and watch. Just for sake of double checking yourself I would also pull the injectors and have them pop tested. While they are out I would get a compression gauge and check the compresion. Then you know your covered...

Well I got to hop in here too... Homemade firewood hauler... Then my Jayco Eagle...

AH64ID you know me... Fleetguard and Frantz...

Like on my High idle kit when I was building them I made the length about 6 foot so it gave plenty of length for hiding and tucking wires out of the way. 18 AWG is fine...

See what you started Elkslayer???

Funny... I'm now seeing some news article (looking over MoparMom's shoulder) saying here comes the $2 a gallon fuels again... (Yeah right) I don't believe it looking at it going north now...

I knew as soon as ISX seen the thread he would have a magic solution for the problem...

Keep me posted or let me know...