Mopar1973Man

The phyiscal size of the ball end is larger on the Mevotek bar compared to the OEM bar. As for both OEM and the Mevotek both have grease fitting and my old bar was greased about every 3-4K with one pump typically. Maybe thats why my old OEM bar lasted till 183K miles..

BEFORE the turbo... After the turbo is 300-500*F cooler... Also you want to be on the 4,5,6 bank which is hotter than 1,2,3 bank. #6 piston is the hottest. It all about making sure you don't burn up a piston so you want to measure the close to the engine. After the myth of pyrometer wiping out a turbo I've never seen one reported yet here, or a host of other forum I've been around...

Took a snoop over at RockAuto.com and for $100 to $200 for front bearing...

Ok... I got the part here... I managed to get the new track bar in. Really easy job to do 1 bolt and 1 nut. I will suggest that you heat the seat that taper goes into in the driver side. This will help in getting it to release after a long period of time. But after doing the track bar I noticed my steering wheel was after center most so to the left about 30*. So I loosen up the clamps and sucked up a bit of slack and now it dead center. Very light pull to the left yet but more like the crown of the road thing. But no more wandering back and forth. Now as for the track bar I purchased... Comparing to the stock bar the Mevotek to stock the Mevotek bar is much beefer but cheaper in price. $52 bucks. http://partsonline.mevotech.com/Showdetails.aspx?pn=MDS1413

Somewhere is this pile there might be some information on it... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/tags.php?tag=front+axle

All the trailers I've towed around even my 8x8 has a huge impact...Then my Jayco...My 8x8 tend to drop me around 14-16 MPGs relm. Then my Jayco for the 2 trips I've done so far have drop me to 9-11 MPGs...

Yea... The front wheel bearings... Jack the front axle up and check both front tire by pushing and pulling on the bottom fo the tire like rocking motion. If there is any movement the bearing are toast. Since the ABS tone ring is inside the bearing so when the bearing wear out the tone ring shifts over out of the view of the ABS speed sensor and fails...

I'm kind of itchy to hear too...

No... I'm running much more that you... RV275 (+40) and Edge Comp (+120) Which put me roughly at 160 HP gain. Still very controllable I run the Edge Comp on 5x5 and tow my Jayco Eagle TT (7,200#) not a problem. I've gone over grade with my cruise set at 60 mPH at 32 PSI of boost and still hovering at 1,100*F not bad at all...

Really simple... The second part from the left is just the nozzle and pintle. At any rate when you change nozzles and pintles you'll need to take the injectors in and have them pop tested. If the pop to early then tha pull the shim (the small washer to the right of the spring) and change it for thicker. Then retest again.

Talk to ISX he pretty good with 12V wiring...

A set of RV275 or +75 HP injectors are fine... Good for MPG's and give a mild jump in power... Very controllable...

100 or 150 is fine...

I would call AirDog on it... It a warranty issue and they should replace no questions asked...

Just for fun... My Old School DiPricol's that are no longer made... (I like these)

What happened???

ABS speed sensor failure on the front axle. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/abs/abs.htm P0216 is a VP44 death code. The advancement cam is not keeping time as desired by the ECM. This can be caused by low fuel pressure.

It got to be a suction line problem. If the suction line is drawing in excesive amount of air it will flood the pump with to much and then lose prime and take a second to get prime again.

Well your doing something wrong... You suppose to use the same fuel station and the same pump in the same direction. So this time fill up don't adjust it... But go through the fillup. Then run through the tank nearly empty and fill at the same pump at the same direction. Now set it and leave it alone till you make fueling mods. You find that you constantly adjust it because of the mild offset of the pump, slope of ground, etc... So once it set leave it alone... Just adjust the fuel price...

Man that's a hell of story there... I'm glad you all are safe... Just keep prayin...

As far as I know he got the truck with 300K or so... I've known Caj now since like 580K miles... Miles fly by quick for him...

As for check resistance... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/voltage-drop/voltage-drop.htm This method works any where with any wire, connectors, etc.. You could jump a power source to the proper pin but make sure you hook up to the right pin... Or POOF!

Well a local rancher lost his injection pump (P1688) and what asking if I would do the job and install a new one... Of course not a problem for me. But as he's finding out after srufing the web and calling around he's having problems finding the VP44 in stock. So be aware parts are getting a bit tough to get at times...

Don't forget pics... We want pics... --- Update to the previous post... Email sent from Caj... Go man go!

J/C = Joint Connector Joint connector is a point that all wire come together like a main splice. But wired up like a large plug. Fuse #12 in the cab is the fuse for the OBDII port.