Mopar1973Man

After hear about it on the phone I tend to agree with Wild & Free... There is something goofy electrically...

Now all you got to do is disassemble the one caliper and clean it up. You might find that all the parts are fine but the pucks might have built up brake fluid (dried) and causing them to bind up. So don't go out on a limb buy a bunch of part right off. When you have the calipers off just pull the seals out and check the pucks to see if they will fall into the bottom of the cylinder(s) without pushing. If not clean the pucks with light sandpaper. Then check them again.

Know there is a way to set stock timing without a dial indicator. Get a hold of ISX and he can walk you through the process of getting that timing setup.

Yes there is you can readjust the starwheel and smoke screw and get the power on sooner. But I tend to wonder if you timing has slipped a bit and become retarded. The 1994-1998 12V are known to slip timing... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen12v/p-pump/afc.htm http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen12v/p-pump/afc-smoke.htm

I would be slick about it and tap in the PDC for the relay... Then take the time and hide the wire going back into the cab so no one figures it out. Then stash a rocker switch under the dash or else where and hook it all up.

I've heard of the used motor oil idea too i does work it just everything is messy. Since Idaho uses a lot of salt on the road I just wash the truck every week. Even in the dead of winter I rinse down the frame and wheel wells the best I can. So far I'm doing really well holding rust at bay. Now for bare metal I'll get out the Kylon tuneup and fix that up quick...

Well the last time I past through New Meadows, ID it was holding strong at 4.459 for diesel...

Just tap the fuel pump relay (VP44 power supply) and add a switch it will never start... http-~~-//youtu.be/NCJjMzRImpA Then the wiring diagram...

Like my truck has been parked in the garage since Wedenday... Till yesterday I had to move the TT to mow the grass under it and desided to try and fix the leaking grey water knife valve... So since the toilet in the house broke I'l be heading to New Meadows, ID for the hardware store and to get a bit of fuel and tell you what happening for price... Except it to be ...

To me anymore its like a blur from one day to the next I get so many people listen to the hype in the performance site(s) that they finely get screw once and lose a pump then look for help. As for the fuel pressure page I'm constantly updating that page with every tidbit I can find trying to get the most from a injection pump. Between that and the 2 cycle oil pages too. As for me I'm the same way like Caj like just getting tire I stand in the door frame watching. Then sneak in check my brakes and rotors and then back to the door frame. I'm on top of them like a hawk the whole time.

I agree with MnTom I got 7 years and 135K on my first filter... I'm now starting my second... That 7 years of dirt roads and hauling logs... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/album.php?albumid=58

Hmmmm... Being it got dry and bound up I would inspect it closely and might actual grease all the joints. But you can do this at home when you get there.

There was a guy I remember that didn't smoke but rigged the cigarette lighter as the toggle switch to start the truck. So to protect his truck he would simple pull the cigarette lighter out and and put it in his pocket... Truck disabled!

Toggle switch to the fuel pump relay in PDC would disable it for sure you could crank you brains out but it won't run...

Not yet that I know of... But Ford and Chevy's do...

Sad thing is the FSM here is corrupt so I can't see it...

Man I'm truely sorry for you loss... Yea... It time to do a bit of hunting...

After digging through the books and wiring diagrams there in no fuel pump relay in a 2005 Cummins. The lift pump is directly controlled byt the ECM and the FCA is directly controlled by the ECM. As a matter of fact the only 2 relay even listed for a Common rail is the 2 for the grid heaters that's it...

Talk to CajFlynn he's had a exhaust brake on his 01 with automatic trans but the last I knew it wore out... He can tell you... As for me I'm still running around on the factory brake pads from the dealer when I bought my truck brand new in 2002. NEVER done a brake pad replacement yet. I've serviced the calipers twice now but continue to re-use the old pads. Exhaust brake are well worth it and save your rotors and pads considerably.

Here you go read up...[ATTACH]2834[/ATTACH] DEFforDummiesFCSD.pdf

Yeah typically they hiss out the tailpipe...

Got you covered... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/bhaf/bhaf.htm Then a good source for them... http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Big-Honkin-Air-Filter-BHAF-p/bhaf.htm

Hopfully you tested the red wire (ECM trigger) to ground? It's possible the valve was jammed partial close... As for the exhaust brake it shouldn't be making a sucking sound the diaphragm unit might be damaged.

To keep this from getting lost I'm making a write up page for it. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/high-idle-diag/high-idle-diagnostics.htm