Mopar1973Man

As for me I'm going to buy the cheapest pads I can find... Being that I'm coming due for my first pad change myself and the factory pads have made it to 182K miles without a problem I surely don't need any kind of high performance brake pads when 90% of my stopping power is my exhaust brake.

Tell you the truth after getting the measurement from ISX there is only about +2*F difference over outside temps while rolling. As for JL_Welding you did that right by backing up the the plate with nuts so the top nuts are nearly flush...

I would also look at the wheel bearings...

Do the key trick... Turn the key on off on off on... Watch the check engine light and count the flashes should be in 2 digit groups.

Actually his page state that 5 PSI of fuel pressure is enough to make MAX horsepower... There is nothing stated about cooling or lubing purpose or longivity of the VP44... Even he admits that 15 PSI is best for longevity and keeps the VP44 cooled the best... There is a difference between trying to make maximum horsepower for 1/4 mile race and trying to make a VP44 last. If your looking to make a VP44 last you need to keep the fuel pressure high enough to keep the overflow valve open. At about 10-11 PSI the Overflow valve is close and cooling of the VP44 is extremely limited. At 14 PSI and above the overflow valve is open and flowing plenty of fuel past the electronics and parts. Like I know the minimum oil pressure for a Cummins engine is 10 PSI according to the book... Do you think a engine will last its maximum life with weak oil pressure (Cooling and Lubing)? Why do you expect anything different with a VP44 pump that only has diesel fuel to lube and cool it. The other thing I tend to stick with the design specs of the fuel system from the FSM... Little more... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=YREpPrMxkHU Even more information on this... If you do the volume test TSB design by Dodge/Cummins and anything under 8 PSI will fail... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/lift-pump-diag/lift-pump-diag.htm

That would be the best bang for the buck flow wise... Little port matching...

No joke... If there was information about the ECM and it programming it would make life easy...

Yeah he's slightly low if the compressor is cycling. The low end pressure should be 40 PSI. I've also seen my jump high in pressures for the same reason but eventiually the high side switch will cycle the compressor off again...

Hmmm... No worse here went o park the TT in the yard and the mud is bad. TT didn't sink but the Dodge couldn't get traction on wet grass/mud even in 4WD... When it dries a bit I got shovel duty...

If that was true then all the truck running a AirDog/FASS system without a fuel heater in the dead of winter up north should be seeing this increased fuel mileage with temps as low as -40*F. If you wanted to prove that point just unplug your fuel heater and take a ride. Like today its barely 32-34*F here and snowing again... But its true there is a fuel temp sensor in the VP44 but the only people that can see it as far as I know is the Edge Juice owners. --- Update to the previous post... Report time again... Hauled the travel trailer to Caldwell, ID and spent the night down there. From the last time I hauled down Ontario, OR I got ~9 MPG without the fooler and without winter fronts. Now on this trip still set at 140*F IAT temp half the grill covered with winter fronts I got 12 MPG this trip. This include bucking winds on the last 30 miles of the leg down to Caldwell, ID and then drive in the heavy rain coming back. Weather was floating 35-45*F

I wonder if the hole in the divider will cause turbulance? Like the idea of exhaust turning a 90* angle and then flow across another path of exhaust to the wastegate just doesn't sound too good. I know some people go as far as milling out the entire divider...

The 2 older ones I got have a loudness setting on them and they are quite loud and annoying. So I place 1 in each vehicle (73 Charger SE and 78 Dodge Magnum) and so far there is little signs of mice. It loud enough that you can hear it across the yard. The deer don't like hanging around the cars....

As for the studs use a backing nut and lift the plate as a high as possible till the top nuts are flush. This also helps protect the A/C line from be rubbed as much. Still need to cover it with a piece of old hose.

I don't think dodge figured these engines could go that far...:banghead: Remember once long ago the odometer only went to 99,999.9 and rolled over... I should know my 73 Dodge Charger has done it 3 times now...

Shorted our trip down in Southern part of the state... Wind is a blowing nasty last night and now we get home and its pouring rain...

Well... I've been using a Ultrasonic boxes in to vehicles now that seem to work really well but the problem is they are no longer produced. But in the RV I'm got 2 Black And Decker Ultrasonic boxes in it... Then I tore through the RV looks for entrances (plumbing, electrical, etc) and was going to spray foam them but Jayco has good tight plumbing and electrical. But since I've got covered belly I tucked a few moth balls in each hole I could find. So far so good...

Becareful... Stock lift pump is only 35 GPH and the FSS DDRP is only 45 GPH so you really don't have much for extra volume. This is way you see the abnormal pressure fall. Anything more than 2-3 PSI fall from idle to WOT is a problem...

Yes... From what I found out it just stops at 999,999 anf that's it... If you want to know you true mileage you have to go to a Dodge Dealer and have them put a DRBIII tool on it to pull the actual mileage.

Keep it in the green...

Feel the love... There is lots of things to discuss and learn about... I'm more than willing to dive in and hold the position for all the electrical of these trucks. I guess I dig in my books and start getting information together.

Actually there was a guy on CF.com that was capable of tapping into the Cummins ECM using a homemade data cable to Serial Port on a laptop and using a program called ROMRaider (produced for Subaru PCM's) he managed to tap into the ECM and re-write anything he wished. RomRaider Site - http://www.romraider.com/ Now on the Tech front... EFI Live is a PC program designed for Fords and Chevy diesel trucks. Would you believe that EFI Live is producing software for the 3rd Gen CR trucks and you guys will be able to plug in any kind of tune you want then... 2nd Gen's I heard are not being considered...

Well I'm getting ready to drag my TT down towards Ontario, OR for a first time trip. I'm going to leave the MPG fooler active this time and see how it turns out. I'll report back soon!

That was my thought is wheel bearings... I know you limited in ability Russ but if you can jack up the front axle so it just clears the ground. Then grb top and bottom and try rocking up and down. There should be no movement.

[*]Disconnect the batteries. [*]Pull the belt off. [*]Disconnect the wires on the back of the alternator. [*]Remove the 2 bolts mounting alternator. Reverse process to install again. But remember to re-calibrate the APPS when your done...

BHAF is worth it... You won't have to deal with mice building nest in the box any longer... The thing is to build the heat shield or flat plate for the fender and use a backing nuts under the plate and set it so the top nuts are flush. Then a piece of old rubber hose for the A/C line and your good...