Mopar1973Man

New Meadows, ID - $4.459Riggins, ID - $4.439McCall, ID - $4.479 I think winter fuel is over up here and the smoke color on my exhaust is changing... I'm also starting to se a gain in MPG's...

Glad to see you back around posting.

Just a deep well 6 side socket... I know mine is a 1 1/16" socket but I've been told mine is a rare odd ball...

Like today I just changed another dead injection pump... It was no run no start condition with a P1688 code... There is no other way around it. Once the electronics fail the pump is brain dead and will not pump a single PSI till its replaced... The only way to test a VP44 is to remove it and have it put on a $600,000 test bench and the bad part is it will fail instantly because of the P1688 because the electronics are burned up. I was going to shoot pictures of the job but my camera batteries were dead...:banghead: Another thought... But thing is the Vp44 replacement just replaces the dead part but still nothing has be done to resolve the cause of the failure. No fuel pressure numbers (idle pressure and WOT pressure at highway speed). So the thing is you will end up replacing the injection pump but I would look for the cause of the failure which is 99% the lift pump and lack of fuel pressure gauge.

I know you will end up pulling both batteries out. Personally I would drain the fuel tank down to near empty. But leave fuel in the system this will prevent rubber seal from drying out.I would store it in a enclosed building that someone is will do deal with pest control (mice and rats). After your return...All fluids would have to be changed. (Coolant, engine oil, brake fluid, axle gear lube, transmission fluid, power steering fluid, etc.)Fresh batteries installed.Might consider tires if there life is over 7 year old. I know the best way to store a truck is to just drive it once a week or so... But I got a feeling you planing to cross the pond at some point?

Nippon Denso typical... All the alternators are china made.

Another email from Caj... Updated Odometer...

Actually I just put it together... If you look at the pics you notice the mount is a metal that horseshoes over the aluminum ear of the alternator so if the bolt wasn't capable of squeezing the metal against the aluminum ear then the alternator could eventually vibrate and chew its way through the alternator. So you might check and see if you can get a good squeeze on the new one.

P0253,1688,1689 - Injection pump is dead and requires replacement. P0121 - you could try a re-calbration of the APPS but if the code returns then replacement is required. P0234 - Wastegate on the turbo is frozen or stuck closed. This is not a MAP sensor issue! As for the injection pump this is what has failed and why it would start but the cause of the failure is because the lift pump is most likely failed behind it. If the fuel pressure falls below 10 PSI its a instant fail at anytime. This is why is so important to have a fuel pressure gauge in the cab. Because once the fuel pressure disappear or gets low it like running the engine with low oil pressure and the injection pump starts to wear quickly and take on damage.

As a matter of fact he called this afternoon and reported he's below 3K now and would most likely hit the mark by Sunday...

Sad part is I'm still digging through the forum and addind tags to old post and it funny to see how many threads about automatic transmission pop up while doing the tag cloud... I not say it impossible to get a good tranny but like most will tell you... You need to invest more money into the transmission to get a good life span from them. (Torque Convertor and Valve Body)

Yeah I've seen the same wiring diagram in my books too...

I'll ask him of the vendors he called..

According what I've been told that switch controls the solenoid for the starter as well as send the cancel signal to the PCM. From Dodge FSM The speed control can be disengaged manually by: [*]Stepping on the brake pedal [*]Depressing the OFF switch [*]Depressing the CANCEL switch. [*]Depressing the clutch pedal

Very unusual...

Give you a clue... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/tags.php?tag=automatic+transmission This is the tag cloud for everything automatic transmission. I know that most of it listed in the 24V forums but the 47RE continued on in life of the 3rd Gens... CajFlynn is the best man for hauling with a automatic and manages to get 300K miles out of them...

Sounds like problem solved...

The only thing I found is Red/Black (Red wire with black tracer) comes from fuse #1 goes to the in cab fuse panel and takes care a few odd thing like the under the hood light, central timer, overhead computer, etc...

Well its a step in right direction...

If you take them apart they will have marking on the nozzle. As for the Injector body should have marking too that you should be able to Google and find some information... If not then consult one of the fine vendors here I'm sure some would know!

Ummm... How about getting what you want for a factory service manual here... www.pdftown.com As for the fuel gauge is the sender arm rubbing the tank wall by chance? It would cause it to hang up... Common Rail Cummins are known for injector failure. This is cause from poor grade of fuel filters and debris etching out the the injectors causing them to leak. Since all 6 injectors are pressurize all the time that means when it starts leaking it will start washing out the rings eventually... So the easiest thing to do is have the injectors pop tested and see if they are leaking. Yeah a bad fan would cause the A/C to trip out the high side switch and shut down. Oh yeah welcome to the site...

Great to hear... Would you be willing to make a write up of it???

P0382 Grid Heater Relay issue P1693 Companion Code (Just means there is codes present in the other computer in this case the PCM)

1.5" Inch socket if I remember right...

Grid heater relay has failed or is disconnected... (P0380 or P0382) Double check your wiring to the relay and check the relay make sure it functional. It's mounted on the driver side fender.