Mopar1973Man

I would run the AFC starwheel down as far as it will go. This will bring on fuel as quickly as possible. Might even slide the plate forward a bit and see how it all works out... But still it would be a good idea at least check the timing...

I'm playing with the values of resistors now. So I'll let you know how it turns out. I'm at 55 MPH @ 1589 RPM's with 3.55 Gears. I don't start lugging till down to 1,300 or so at least with my truck. I normally run in the 1,500 to 2,000 RPM span. So once I fall to 50 I grab 4th gear and now I'm back up to 2,000 RPM's again. But tell you the truth if you could find back roads that allow slower speeds my sweet spot is 4th Gear @ 1800 RPM and getting better than 25 MPG. You got to remember wind drag will double from 55 MPH to 65 MPH and quadruple from 55 MPH to 75 MPH... Now looking at the 47RE ratios... 4th Gear 0.69:1 Ratio 3rd Gear 1:1 Ratio Then NV4500 Ratios... 5th Gear 0.75:1 Ratio 4th Gear 1:1 Ratio

Got it done the article is here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen12v/p-pump/timing-check.htm

Comments in blue... If you find the smiley and bring it he I'll upload it to the system...

Draining a batery to 0 Volts does serious damage to them most times. Normal car/truck batteries are consider dead at about 11.8-12.0 Volts below this point damage to the plates start occuring. Remember car/truck batteries are NOT deep cycle batteries so they do not tolerate being discharged deeply and then recharged. Maybe that way my factory orignal batteries at still going yet...

Just the key on. If the key was ON yes then the speed sensor are active. As for the P0500 code... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/abs/abs.htm (Bottom of the page)

Dude! Not that relay... The Fuel Pump relay in the PDC box not the FASS/AirDog relay... The fuel pump relay in the PDC (Power Distribution Center) should kill it dead...

Expanding known issues... 3. Injectors don't tolerate dirt and debris very well. Need a upgraded filter setup (2 micron is best). When a injector(s) start to fail most people don't relize what is going wrong till it to late. Like most up here complain about hard starting and having to use ether to start on a warm summer day. Then find out the injectors are leaking so bad the rings and bearings are washed out. Typical blow by is so extreme that it will blow the oil cap out of your hand as you unscrew it. As Perrysburg Dodgeboy mentions the plus of not having the VP44 failures which really is cheap compared to 6 injectors for a CR engine or even worse a full rebuild from washed out rings and bearings... Every Cummins version has a weak spot... So what is the worse of the two evils?

Yeap... I got the article and get it posted up first thing in the morning for ya... I'll post again and put a link up...

That's what I like to hear I'm glad you got it straighten out and back to running straight...

My igniton switch is so wore out I can pull the key out with it running and lock the doors... As for car thieft out here in Idaho is rather rare... 1. If you do steal a car you won't make it to the next county with it. (Can't out run Motorola)2. It's not hard to steal a rig out here being that most people leave there keys in the ignition with the windows rolled down and doors unlocked. As for people with car alarms the local kids love picking on these cars because they make noise. After awhile the owner typically gets smart and never uses it again. Or the local cats love to bounce on a warm hood tripping the alarm. As for me I lock my truck up even at home. Most of the time its parked in the shop and even locked up in there too. Something about living in California for 20 years kind of does it to you.

Well 6.7L are not know for good MPG numbers... Then one of the vendors informed me the injectors are extremely expensive...

So is the problem cured?

Napa Thermostat... Cummins thermostat is just way too expensive just to have a name... You need to either build my custom crankcase vent or extend it down.

Problem is the spray cleaner will pool inside the turbo so next time you start it up you could have a run away or have the grid heaters ignite the vapor explosively likely do some engine damage. This why I suggest removing the turbo completely. The other problem is if you cleaning the turbo on the engine where do you think the dirt will go next? Most likely inhaled by the engine. So its best to remove it.

You got a VP44 right?

That's where I'm different I change thermostats every time I change coolant. I just don't skip that step and so far everything just works right. Fresh coolant, flush, and fresh thermostat every year.

Just remove the turbo from the engine (4 nuts) and the exhaust (2 bolts) don't forget the oil lines. Then you can pull the wastegate motor and then pull the compressor housing. Then you can clean it wel using part solvent and compressed air. But knowing the dirt is in the turbo that means the entire air system tubing and the intercooler are going to be filled with dirt too. So I would make a project out of it and wash everything up right.

Well that dumb idea worked huh? During our conversation on the phone we thought about fooling the trans temp sensor and seeing if it makes a impact on behavor. Since it did I guess the trans temp sensor is no good...

Hmmm... I've never had a any issues with my cooling system I run between 193-197*F coolant temperature all the time. Even in the dead of winter with temperature as low as -25*F it still always made at least 193*F even without a winter front. Now hitch up the Jayco Travel Trailer and still pulling grades at 1,100*F EGT's I never get over 197*F...

No wonder why the Automatics didn't get the exhuast brake as a option from the dealer... Another person to talk to is CajFlynn he's used a exhaust brake on his 01 automatic for many miles...

You guys got to check this out...http://www.rense.com/incredible.html

I've heard the same thing... But when Mom's 1996 Dodge Ram gets 12-14 MPG (442 Miles) and the 2002 Dodge Ram (Cummins) gets 21-23 MPG (770 miles to tank) hard to compete... My buddy (Relentless70) he's been driving gassers for years now that he's bought a diesel there is no comparing to gas... He told me he'll never drive a gasser ever again. As a matter of fact he hauled his old Dodge Power Wagon to the scrap yard and had it crushed. (No Kidding! )

No... Not that I know of the automatic trans will go up and stay locked if using a lockup switch. But thinking of it for a sec... I don't know if it would work... But select a gear down and the release the torque converter for a sec to allow the transmission to gear down and then lockup again. Once again I don't know if it will work though? I paid $750 for mine back in 2002...

Pull the PDC loose from the fender and open up the bottom of the PDC and then you'll see all the wiring going to and from relays you can just snip into the wire and add a switch as wanted. But once again you MUST make it look factory. Because you never know if the thief will get smart and open the hood and look. Depends on conditions for the thief... If you truck is covered rather well he/she might take his time. The only thing that saved my 73 Charger from being stolen was the dummy kicked out my stereo first and ripped the wiring out. Well on the bottom of the stereo was a trio gauge set (temp, Amps, oil pressure) When the amp gauge was yanked loose the whole car went black. Now there is now way to steal it. So in the same principal you want to disable something but don't be obovious about what your doing for a disabling switch or device like I said make sure everything is covered / hidden.