Mopar1973Man

Wild & Free is in North Dakota...

Like what I did was added a dye pack to it. Then using compressed air charged the system to about 80 PSI which is enough to cycle the compressor. Run it for a short time 1-2 minutes to cycle the dye through and shut off. Then get out a black light and look. In both cases now no dye is visable in the engine area. So this means the evaporator is the cause of the leak... Thank goodness NAPA has a lifetime warranty on the evaporator...

That why they go out ot the HTML pages so they are not lost in the vBulletin MySQL database of hell...:banghead:

Well ISX I guess we better warm up the cameras and hit the shop a bit more eh??? Matter of fact I want to redo a bunch of video and such for the site some of the information is old and needs a fresh video.

My Bad... I didn't pay attention... Fuel rail is typically expensive... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/dealers/dealers.htm

Ouch... Ummm... You might hit the vendors here on the site and see if they have any sales or deals... I know some of the mechanical gauges can be had for as a cheap as $35 to $40 bucks if you shop around. Autometer happen to be the most expensive brand for sure. As for the fuel pressure its normally hooked up after the filter (bottom of the stock filter can). I would say typical good fuel pressure is right around 12-15 PSI for even a common rail.

That sound like a mess... Glad you got it fixed though...

A valid thread could be asking questions about your truck and things you don't understand. Or maybe you got experience with something and you can help someone else out. The problem I have is that lots of people come over here to snag information and books and haul it off to other sites. All I'm asking it give some effort on your part toward the community and help others and you will recieve help as well... Simple really... But it upsetting to the community to have someone come in post once and snag the books and disappear... It's not fair to the members that have donated information and funds to the community to have a member leech and run... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leech_(computing) In computing and specifically on the Internet, a leech or leecher is one who benefits, usually deliberately, from others' information or effort but does not offer anything in return, or makes only token offerings in an attempt to avoid being called a leech. In economics this type of behavior is called "free riding" and is associated with the free rider problem.

(Bright ideas coming on)

Injectors are pretty common to fall on the common rail engines. Yeah the link you got is the service manual for the 2005 Dodge Ram. That will show you how to do it.

Still a accurate reading its just the water hammer is filtered out. Here is a short video of how to set it... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=M33ZCc8b-7Q

Thank you DobbieNut... But you got to remember I couldn't do without all of you guys. I've learned something from every single member here.

http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=YgSuH9txH4U

JohnFak is right... No to the additives... But it would be a better idea to used good quality filters to protect you fuel system. Ask AH64ID about the filter list and he'll get you going in the right direction. But if you want to keep them clean hitch up a heavy trailer and go drag it up hill and get the pyrometer up nice and hot for several miles. Carbon burns off at roughly 1,000*F... Hence injectors cleaned...

Very good tidbit thanks W&F!

DING DING DING!!! Absolutely correct...

Few have but the fact still remains its not adjustable and you cannot shut the system down if there is a problem... This why the $8 buck needle valve (WH6820) is usually taken over the autometer snubber.

Wow! I would jump on those... I think I paid $375 a bearing for my truck a few years back for the front axle by the time it was done and over my total bill was $1,100... This included 2 return trips back for ABS sensor issues and a leaking front axle seal...

Also why speed is the number 1 killer of MPG's...

Try having the alternator bench tested and make sure to have them check the diodes for function. Just because voltage is present doesn't mean it not leaking AC current through 1 diode which could be enough to drive the ECM, PCM and VP44 nuts...

I'm also in this catagory... But... I still look for a good quality name brane oil like Chevron Delo, Mobile One, Shell Rotella, etc. That meet the CI-4 or CJ-4 requirements.

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2716&d=1301370232 I love those so much... But I can see me backing over this and go SNAP!

There is the 2 sensor in the front fenders... Check those wires. (Doubtful) But I going to bet the clockspring too. A lot of people tend to forget to tie off the steering column so it doesn't move while working out it. Just like 5-0 mention about tearing it by allowing it to spin to far.

Well it seems to me you good for the air side but you might need to do some adjusting to the fuel plate.