Mopar1973Man

Here is the switch... Best guess is the white piece on top slides out and allows for removal... But if the clutch safety is still working for the starting then the cruise cancel should too... Same switch drives both.

The only weak spot I know of for the CR series engines is the injectors and the lift pump. Injectors requires super clean fuel 2-3 micron fuel filter. As for engine wise when common rail injectors go out it can do serious piston and cylinder damage with major blow by. The stock lift pumps are weak and can't keep up with the demand volume wise. Sad but true a set of 6 common rail injectors cost more than 1 VP44 injection pump.

He's on vacation for a short span remember the beach pictures?

Always... Post up all the information you can... The more the merrier... Videos, pictures, explaining how to do it...

That's what we are here for is try to help out in any way we can... If it means getting to your knees and saying a few prayers for people so be it... I'm glad he's home and doing better... He's got a tough one there to over come but I'm sure he can do it...

Another way of doing it... Go to Google and type in what your looking for them add... site:forum.mopar1973man.com So it should look like... trans temp gauge site:forum.mopar1973man.com Or here is the link... http://www.google.com/#hl=en&source=hp&biw=1676&bih=879&q=trans+temp+gauge+site:forum.mopar1973man.com&btnG=Google+Search&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&fp=d69cd41469f6341d I'm working on learning how to add a Google search to the forum since I already got one for the static pages...

I think bus bias comes from the PCM...

Hence why I mention it... Because if that is a known failure then you got to be careful with how much timing and such your messing with. (Propane / Methanol)

Unknown yet... The trouble is there is no way of seeing the VP44 timing value. But I know where people have stacked Edge Comp and Smarty both with timing and ended up eating a piston...

That the difference some people haul trailers daily and some remain empty most times. So tire pressure should be adjusted for weight difference or the heaviest load expected.

As for the compressor rebuilt... I don't know... As for Compressor removal its simple... Drain the system, pull the belt, pull the 1 bolt holding the lines on and then pull the 4 bolts out that hold it to the engine. New seals can be had at NAPA for about $11 buck and it allows for all them to be replaced...

Finally catching up with me eh?

High pressure switch on the line near the compressor and then the low pressure switch on the accumulator can.

I'm running 60 PSI front and 40 PSI rear... You might try this idea... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/3949-Tire-Pressure-Calculator

If the sender is functioning properly the should come on at 1/8 of tank. So if you sender never reports 1/8 tank then the light will never come on... Simple as that..

Kind of reminds me of the Chevy 1 ton fire truck we have in the fire dept here. Its a 3 speed manual transmission with 3.27 gears. It so tall legged than 3rd gear is worthless come to any hill or grade. and Your stuck in 2nd... I thing what would happen it you'd reach the same gear ratio but the overlap of gear would be lost...

It could be a damper problem you can remove the 4 bolts and check the alignment of both halves... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/maintenance/damper/damper.htm Or it could be flywheel / torque converter getting loose... A few things to look into

Optimal coolant temp is between 190-210*F... 215*F will set a error code for overheat...

Too late... I've got all 4 ball joints (2 upper and 2 lower) and a new track bar coming all for a total price of $166.25 (including frieght) Thing is I got 183K miles from the stock track bar I hardly doubt I need to invest in a Luke's link... I'm not running oversized tires as a matter of fact I'm running undersized tires. Now as for the tracbar its got a 5 year warranty and 60K miles... (not a Moog - RevoTech)

Well I would NOT suggest doing below manufacture designed air pressures listed in the owners manual of the truck. Like currently I've been running 60 PSI in the front and 40 PSI in the rear for some time now... It was alway strange because I typically inflated for profile appearance of the tire vs. weight anyways. I grab the camera and give you all a few photos...

I just ordered the ball joints and track bar for my truck... I've got 183K miles and this will be my first re-work of the front end...

Well after playing around with Excel and doing some thinking. I figured out how to figure exactly how much air pressure you need in each tire. The thing is that you need to get your truck weighed on a truck scale. The calculator needs front axle and rear axle weights. Then you'll need the weight rating of your tire and maximum air pressure rating. Then you plug the information into the calculator (blue boxes) and it will figure out when your optimal tire pressure is. Since I just weighed my truck I left my figures in the boxes as samples... Information Front Axle 4,420 Rear Axle 3,040 GAWR Front Axle 5,200 Rear Axle 6,084 Tire Max Tire Weight 3,042 Max Air Pressure 80 PSI Calculation (Axle Weight / 2) / Tire Max Weight x Tire Max PSI = Inflate Pressure Front Axle = (4,420 / 2) = 2,210 / 3,042 = 0.72 x 80 = 58 PSI Rear Axle = (3040 / 2) = 1,520 / 3,042 = 0.49 x 80 = 40 PSI Tire Air Pressures.xlsx

Only flash you might have to deal with is VIN numbers...

How I did it was use a rubber tipped blow gun and place it on the nipple of the high side fitting and load er' up. 100 PSI and get soaping the system. If you have enough air in the system it will cycle the compressor and circulate the oil and UV dye so if you wanting to use the blacklight and look again go for it.

Well I'm with you Russ... I done a step more... As for electricity I got the inverter, batteries, solar, pelton wheel, etc... I must live within 30 amps of load. I've got no choice. We intenially set the limit on the inverter so we would cut back on power useage and love it. As for the vehicles I'm notices my fuel logs getting wider and wider time spans between fuel. 3-4 weeks before I get fuel for the Cummins. Then 2-3 months before I get fuel for the 96 Dodge gasser. But I keep looking for the way now to do more in a single run. Like friends of mine here we are getting trailers built up. I might get a 1 ton axle for my 8x8 trailer allowing me to haul closer to 2 cords on the trailer and 1 cord on the truck. My friend is also converting to a Dodge Cummins as a matter of fact he's buying Taz's turck (1 ton 2WD 92 Dodge Cummins). Both families need roughly 12-15 cords of wood and we are now looking to get as much wood in a single run.