Mopar1973Man

Just the key on. If the key was ON yes then the speed sensor are active. As for the P0500 code... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/abs/abs.htm (Bottom of the page)

Dude! Not that relay... The Fuel Pump relay in the PDC box not the FASS/AirDog relay... The fuel pump relay in the PDC (Power Distribution Center) should kill it dead...

Expanding known issues... 3. Injectors don't tolerate dirt and debris very well. Need a upgraded filter setup (2 micron is best). When a injector(s) start to fail most people don't relize what is going wrong till it to late. Like most up here complain about hard starting and having to use ether to start on a warm summer day. Then find out the injectors are leaking so bad the rings and bearings are washed out. Typical blow by is so extreme that it will blow the oil cap out of your hand as you unscrew it. As Perrysburg Dodgeboy mentions the plus of not having the VP44 failures which really is cheap compared to 6 injectors for a CR engine or even worse a full rebuild from washed out rings and bearings... Every Cummins version has a weak spot... So what is the worse of the two evils?

Yeap... I got the article and get it posted up first thing in the morning for ya... I'll post again and put a link up...

That's what I like to hear I'm glad you got it straighten out and back to running straight...

My igniton switch is so wore out I can pull the key out with it running and lock the doors... As for car thieft out here in Idaho is rather rare... 1. If you do steal a car you won't make it to the next county with it. (Can't out run Motorola)2. It's not hard to steal a rig out here being that most people leave there keys in the ignition with the windows rolled down and doors unlocked. As for people with car alarms the local kids love picking on these cars because they make noise. After awhile the owner typically gets smart and never uses it again. Or the local cats love to bounce on a warm hood tripping the alarm. As for me I lock my truck up even at home. Most of the time its parked in the shop and even locked up in there too. Something about living in California for 20 years kind of does it to you.

Well 6.7L are not know for good MPG numbers... Then one of the vendors informed me the injectors are extremely expensive...

So is the problem cured?

Napa Thermostat... Cummins thermostat is just way too expensive just to have a name... You need to either build my custom crankcase vent or extend it down.

Problem is the spray cleaner will pool inside the turbo so next time you start it up you could have a run away or have the grid heaters ignite the vapor explosively likely do some engine damage. This why I suggest removing the turbo completely. The other problem is if you cleaning the turbo on the engine where do you think the dirt will go next? Most likely inhaled by the engine. So its best to remove it.

You got a VP44 right?

That's where I'm different I change thermostats every time I change coolant. I just don't skip that step and so far everything just works right. Fresh coolant, flush, and fresh thermostat every year.

Just remove the turbo from the engine (4 nuts) and the exhaust (2 bolts) don't forget the oil lines. Then you can pull the wastegate motor and then pull the compressor housing. Then you can clean it wel using part solvent and compressed air. But knowing the dirt is in the turbo that means the entire air system tubing and the intercooler are going to be filled with dirt too. So I would make a project out of it and wash everything up right.

Well that dumb idea worked huh? During our conversation on the phone we thought about fooling the trans temp sensor and seeing if it makes a impact on behavor. Since it did I guess the trans temp sensor is no good...

Hmmm... I've never had a any issues with my cooling system I run between 193-197*F coolant temperature all the time. Even in the dead of winter with temperature as low as -25*F it still always made at least 193*F even without a winter front. Now hitch up the Jayco Travel Trailer and still pulling grades at 1,100*F EGT's I never get over 197*F...

No wonder why the Automatics didn't get the exhuast brake as a option from the dealer... Another person to talk to is CajFlynn he's used a exhaust brake on his 01 automatic for many miles...

You guys got to check this out...http://www.rense.com/incredible.html

I've heard the same thing... But when Mom's 1996 Dodge Ram gets 12-14 MPG (442 Miles) and the 2002 Dodge Ram (Cummins) gets 21-23 MPG (770 miles to tank) hard to compete... My buddy (Relentless70) he's been driving gassers for years now that he's bought a diesel there is no comparing to gas... He told me he'll never drive a gasser ever again. As a matter of fact he hauled his old Dodge Power Wagon to the scrap yard and had it crushed. (No Kidding! )

No... Not that I know of the automatic trans will go up and stay locked if using a lockup switch. But thinking of it for a sec... I don't know if it would work... But select a gear down and the release the torque converter for a sec to allow the transmission to gear down and then lockup again. Once again I don't know if it will work though? I paid $750 for mine back in 2002...

Pull the PDC loose from the fender and open up the bottom of the PDC and then you'll see all the wiring going to and from relays you can just snip into the wire and add a switch as wanted. But once again you MUST make it look factory. Because you never know if the thief will get smart and open the hood and look. Depends on conditions for the thief... If you truck is covered rather well he/she might take his time. The only thing that saved my 73 Charger from being stolen was the dummy kicked out my stereo first and ripped the wiring out. Well on the bottom of the stereo was a trio gauge set (temp, Amps, oil pressure) When the amp gauge was yanked loose the whole car went black. Now there is now way to steal it. So in the same principal you want to disable something but don't be obovious about what your doing for a disabling switch or device like I said make sure everything is covered / hidden.

After hear about it on the phone I tend to agree with Wild & Free... There is something goofy electrically...

Now all you got to do is disassemble the one caliper and clean it up. You might find that all the parts are fine but the pucks might have built up brake fluid (dried) and causing them to bind up. So don't go out on a limb buy a bunch of part right off. When you have the calipers off just pull the seals out and check the pucks to see if they will fall into the bottom of the cylinder(s) without pushing. If not clean the pucks with light sandpaper. Then check them again.

Know there is a way to set stock timing without a dial indicator. Get a hold of ISX and he can walk you through the process of getting that timing setup.

Yes there is you can readjust the starwheel and smoke screw and get the power on sooner. But I tend to wonder if you timing has slipped a bit and become retarded. The 1994-1998 12V are known to slip timing... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen12v/p-pump/afc.htm http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen12v/p-pump/afc-smoke.htm

I would be slick about it and tap in the PDC for the relay... Then take the time and hide the wire going back into the cab so no one figures it out. Then stash a rocker switch under the dash or else where and hook it all up.