Mopar1973Man

P0253,1688,1689 - Injection pump is dead and requires replacement. P0121 - you could try a re-calbration of the APPS but if the code returns then replacement is required. P0234 - Wastegate on the turbo is frozen or stuck closed. This is not a MAP sensor issue! As for the injection pump this is what has failed and why it would start but the cause of the failure is because the lift pump is most likely failed behind it. If the fuel pressure falls below 10 PSI its a instant fail at anytime. This is why is so important to have a fuel pressure gauge in the cab. Because once the fuel pressure disappear or gets low it like running the engine with low oil pressure and the injection pump starts to wear quickly and take on damage.

As a matter of fact he called this afternoon and reported he's below 3K now and would most likely hit the mark by Sunday...

Sad part is I'm still digging through the forum and addind tags to old post and it funny to see how many threads about automatic transmission pop up while doing the tag cloud... I not say it impossible to get a good tranny but like most will tell you... You need to invest more money into the transmission to get a good life span from them. (Torque Convertor and Valve Body)

Yeah I've seen the same wiring diagram in my books too...

I'll ask him of the vendors he called..

According what I've been told that switch controls the solenoid for the starter as well as send the cancel signal to the PCM. From Dodge FSM The speed control can be disengaged manually by: [*]Stepping on the brake pedal [*]Depressing the OFF switch [*]Depressing the CANCEL switch. [*]Depressing the clutch pedal

Very unusual...

Give you a clue... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/tags.php?tag=automatic+transmission This is the tag cloud for everything automatic transmission. I know that most of it listed in the 24V forums but the 47RE continued on in life of the 3rd Gens... CajFlynn is the best man for hauling with a automatic and manages to get 300K miles out of them...

Sounds like problem solved...

The only thing I found is Red/Black (Red wire with black tracer) comes from fuse #1 goes to the in cab fuse panel and takes care a few odd thing like the under the hood light, central timer, overhead computer, etc...

Well its a step in right direction...

If you take them apart they will have marking on the nozzle. As for the Injector body should have marking too that you should be able to Google and find some information... If not then consult one of the fine vendors here I'm sure some would know!

Ummm... How about getting what you want for a factory service manual here... www.pdftown.com As for the fuel gauge is the sender arm rubbing the tank wall by chance? It would cause it to hang up... Common Rail Cummins are known for injector failure. This is cause from poor grade of fuel filters and debris etching out the the injectors causing them to leak. Since all 6 injectors are pressurize all the time that means when it starts leaking it will start washing out the rings eventually... So the easiest thing to do is have the injectors pop tested and see if they are leaking. Yeah a bad fan would cause the A/C to trip out the high side switch and shut down. Oh yeah welcome to the site...

Great to hear... Would you be willing to make a write up of it???

P0382 Grid Heater Relay issue P1693 Companion Code (Just means there is codes present in the other computer in this case the PCM)

1.5" Inch socket if I remember right...

Grid heater relay has failed or is disconnected... (P0380 or P0382) Double check your wiring to the relay and check the relay make sure it functional. It's mounted on the driver side fender.

The phyiscal size of the ball end is larger on the Mevotek bar compared to the OEM bar. As for both OEM and the Mevotek both have grease fitting and my old bar was greased about every 3-4K with one pump typically. Maybe thats why my old OEM bar lasted till 183K miles..

BEFORE the turbo... After the turbo is 300-500*F cooler... Also you want to be on the 4,5,6 bank which is hotter than 1,2,3 bank. #6 piston is the hottest. It all about making sure you don't burn up a piston so you want to measure the close to the engine. After the myth of pyrometer wiping out a turbo I've never seen one reported yet here, or a host of other forum I've been around...

Took a snoop over at RockAuto.com and for $100 to $200 for front bearing...

Ok... I got the part here... I managed to get the new track bar in. Really easy job to do 1 bolt and 1 nut. I will suggest that you heat the seat that taper goes into in the driver side. This will help in getting it to release after a long period of time. But after doing the track bar I noticed my steering wheel was after center most so to the left about 30*. So I loosen up the clamps and sucked up a bit of slack and now it dead center. Very light pull to the left yet but more like the crown of the road thing. But no more wandering back and forth. Now as for the track bar I purchased... Comparing to the stock bar the Mevotek to stock the Mevotek bar is much beefer but cheaper in price. $52 bucks. http://partsonline.mevotech.com/Showdetails.aspx?pn=MDS1413

Somewhere is this pile there might be some information on it... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/tags.php?tag=front+axle

All the trailers I've towed around even my 8x8 has a huge impact...Then my Jayco...My 8x8 tend to drop me around 14-16 MPGs relm. Then my Jayco for the 2 trips I've done so far have drop me to 9-11 MPGs...

Yea... The front wheel bearings... Jack the front axle up and check both front tire by pushing and pulling on the bottom fo the tire like rocking motion. If there is any movement the bearing are toast. Since the ABS tone ring is inside the bearing so when the bearing wear out the tone ring shifts over out of the view of the ABS speed sensor and fails...

I'm kind of itchy to hear too...