Mopar1973Man

Typically if you remove a part like the compressor you suppose to add back amount of oil to replace what was lost. Each part in the system will hold a certain amount of oil. Compressor holds the most.

We need Pictures...

To add to Russ comments there... Yes the IAT sensor controls the initial use of the grid heaters before starting but after the engine is running it seems the Engine Coolant Sensor controls the post grid heater usage. I been running all winter with mine locked at 140*F and there is no grid heaters at key ON but after you start the grid heater cycle in and out. But now with warm weather I never see grid heaters any longer. So yes its possible for a intake temperature sensor (IAT) to fail within normal run specs and not throw a code but also be far off the mark from actual manifold temp. So this why I suggest using a live data tool to check the sensor value. Because like my setup I'm locked at set temp now no codes no issues. But now if the data tool can't be had you can just replace the sensor as a guess. They seem pretty cheap for $22 buck for a IAT sensor...

I ran through the FSM and didn't find anything about bearing or anything on the steering column. You might have to just dive in and look...

Only way to be sure is to get a Live Data tool and see what the value is. Check both the Engine Coolant and IAT Sensor. From a cold start both sensor should be the same. Then at full running temp the IAT should be about +40*F over outside air temp.

$4.459 still in New Meadows as for today...

Remember to check the fuel pressure as you drive...

Dobienut got it...

I don't suggest this with any flamable cleaning solvent... Vacuum motor might ignite the vapors...

Hmmm... Interesting idea...

Well I guess the problem is gone... I checked today and the throughput in 385 KB/s :banghead: Gotta love the internet... Well I'm going to be finishing adding the files back to the system now...

$4.439 in Riggins, ID last time I've seen... I'm heading for New Meadows, ID to get trailer work done...

Manual transmission have all the luck... No problems with cup holder because they are on the floor... Only problem is my truck got too much HP and tips everything over all the time...

Do you still have the stock fuel filter housing? If not and the unplugged wire hanging there is getting wet it will trip the light just like you mention. But if you do have the stock filter yet look on the side of it and check if the WIF wires are plugged into it. Then unplug it and put some dielectric grease in the plug and plug it back in. This should cure the WIF light problem.

Codes? Fuel pressure? White smoke in the morning? Check for hot brakes? (Drag) As for the sensor I don't think there whould be that big of drop. As for cleaning sensor only needs to be done if you own a exhaust brake.

Check out this thread over on DieselTurckSite... http://www.dieseltrucksite.com/showthread.php?t=365

Hey gang... You know I've been hard at work rebuilding the download area. Well I hit a snag at least for me where all upload and download speeds are really slow and making my work difficult. I'm going to open the Download area up temporarly so you guys and gals can bench test the download area for me. I need to know if there is any problems speed, not completing etc. All files are compressed with RAR and all should have the password: mopar1973man.com Please list as much information about any problem you have if you can include screen shots... So download some books and documents guys and gals... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php

Welcome to the site... As for the APPS sensor no it not going to degrade it that much... But you could try a APPS reset and see if that helps. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/apps/apps.htm (Bottom of the page) Thing is I would help to fill out your signature with all the toys and mods on your truck and what year... But if you fuel pressure is low and your injection pump is getting weak then you will see poor MPG's. any fuel pressure below 10 PSI at anytime is a FAIL period. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/fuel-pressure/fuel-pressure.htm

Dang Russ... When it rains it pours... (Pun intended) I really wonder if the water is coming in higher than the window... Seam in the roof, corner trim or otherwise?

Grease gun hose not needed... I'm tapped right into the line with the needle valve and adjust accordingly... I personal don't think a grease gun hose is damping the pulses being a grease gun hose is rated for hundreds of pounds of pressure without swelling. The vulcan line is not rated that high and it doesn't dampen the pulses... But now a small orifice like a snubber or a needle valve actually stop the pulses. The old myth was the engine vibration caused sender failures on the electric gauges... Not true it was the fact they place the sender directly at the VP44 (source of the water hammer) and no protection (snubber or needle valve).Working for the last 7 years!

Stop by a body shop they show stock these kind of fasteners...

Like my Cummins low pressure light comes on at 3 PSI... But I'm running 15-17 PSI on the gauge when I see 14 PSI its time for a filter change...

I'm also running stock fuel filter housing with fleetguard filter against my AirDog 150 system. Now I'll tell you its been great because the stock filter captures all the little bit of debris that sneaks pass the AirDog filter. I figure about every 50-70K miles the stock filter needs to be changed. But as for fuel pressure I typically idle at 17 PSI and at WOT 55-80 MPH I can barely pull down to 15 PSI. So no the stock filter will not hamper the performance.

Dorkweed is right about the hydraulics... I'm still running stock master/slave hydraulics on my truck no issues...

Well John you know there is a place in the Northwest if you ever get here...