Mopar1973Man

Sometimes all it need is a bit of TLC and the truck behaves much better...

Check the IOD (Ignition Off Draw) fuse its the one in the cab fuse panel with the funky clip over it.

I'm close to 400 HP to the ground and the Southbend Con OFE clutch holds really good and tight...

The only thing a O2 sensor would be used for is smoke control. Just like on gasser the O2 sensor detect rich/lean conditions and tunes the fuel accordingly to the load and speed.

The only one that can be mixed is the yellow it can be mixed with either green or orange but not both.

Just emailed him again to see if there is a update of if it actually rolls over or 999,999 ???

Just 7 minutes ago I go the email... It has been done... Congrads to CajFlynn for making 1 million miles with a 2001 Dodge Cummins... Also the milestone page has been update as well... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/milestone/milestones.htm

100 miles to go...

I'd would consider just changing the ECM with your old engine then you know the data bus is the same thing... If not you could have the ECM flashed to match the Dodge. (I think ??? )

There you go... Post it up on CumminsForum I sure some punk would buy it for $12K...

Sorry that won't wash here... Some of use actually know the history of you truck...

It all one piece. No you don't have to mark its position. Just pull the 4 bolts and remove. Clean it with a mild degreaser. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/maintenance/damper/damper.htm

I hear a few mods coming on. Like a relocated fuel filter with updated media...

Another email tonight... Go man go!

No reason for these prices...

It will run like a dog... The fact is as long as the code keep coming back the engine will go to limp mode and defuel heavy. As for replacement sensors it would be a good idea of check with a Cummins dealer first because parts store are a bit high in price for the MAP sensor typically.

Yeah the pump I just changed the other day was about 3.5 hour job for me. Basic hand tools needed for the job the only special tool that is nice ot have is the gear puller. You can a steering wheel puller too but the actual VP44 gear puller is much smaller and easier to work with. The only other odd tool is a set of torx bolts on the rear bracket you got to swap out. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/vp44-replace/vp44-replace.htm Just for the sake of more information on your errors of your current VP44... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/vp44-replace/vp44-error.htm Apps sensor is really easy job. Once again basic hand tools and a about half an hour... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/apps/timbo-install.htm As for the fuel pressure gauge here is a bit of basic information. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/gauges/gauges.htm

New Meadows, ID - $4.459Riggins, ID - $4.439McCall, ID - $4.479 I think winter fuel is over up here and the smoke color on my exhaust is changing... I'm also starting to se a gain in MPG's...

Glad to see you back around posting.

Just a deep well 6 side socket... I know mine is a 1 1/16" socket but I've been told mine is a rare odd ball...

Like today I just changed another dead injection pump... It was no run no start condition with a P1688 code... There is no other way around it. Once the electronics fail the pump is brain dead and will not pump a single PSI till its replaced... The only way to test a VP44 is to remove it and have it put on a $600,000 test bench and the bad part is it will fail instantly because of the P1688 because the electronics are burned up. I was going to shoot pictures of the job but my camera batteries were dead...:banghead: Another thought... But thing is the Vp44 replacement just replaces the dead part but still nothing has be done to resolve the cause of the failure. No fuel pressure numbers (idle pressure and WOT pressure at highway speed). So the thing is you will end up replacing the injection pump but I would look for the cause of the failure which is 99% the lift pump and lack of fuel pressure gauge.

I know you will end up pulling both batteries out. Personally I would drain the fuel tank down to near empty. But leave fuel in the system this will prevent rubber seal from drying out.I would store it in a enclosed building that someone is will do deal with pest control (mice and rats). After your return...All fluids would have to be changed. (Coolant, engine oil, brake fluid, axle gear lube, transmission fluid, power steering fluid, etc.)Fresh batteries installed.Might consider tires if there life is over 7 year old. I know the best way to store a truck is to just drive it once a week or so... But I got a feeling you planing to cross the pond at some point?

Nippon Denso typical... All the alternators are china made.

Another email from Caj... Updated Odometer...

Actually I just put it together... If you look at the pics you notice the mount is a metal that horseshoes over the aluminum ear of the alternator so if the bolt wasn't capable of squeezing the metal against the aluminum ear then the alternator could eventually vibrate and chew its way through the alternator. So you might check and see if you can get a good squeeze on the new one.