Mopar1973Man

As for power steering pump most time its just replaced as a unit. As for removal remove the entire assembly from the gear case and work with outside the engine area is must easier than working in the engine area on only the power steering unit. As for preventing pump failure is simple do the required power steering fluid changes every 30K miles and they will ast a very long time.

I tend to agree with Dripley... I think your pressure gauge has a damaged sender being the pressure is so high. Also there is no snubber or needle valve on the sender the gauge should not snap to 25 PSI like that that shows your not dampening the water hammer so more than likely the pressure gauge is wrong and damaged...

All 4 rims should be down in Payette, ID scrap yard now... As for replacement I ordered a set of 4 aluminum modular rims 16x7 and a set of 235/85 R16 (14 Ply). As for what they exactly look like well you could head over to Big O Tires and look up the modular rims...

No bio around me... I've got to haul to a big city to even find some...

No leaks... The cracks where on the inside bead where you wouldn't normally see it. But 3 wheels had at least 3-5 cracks a piece in them... But 1 wheel was absolutely fine... Go figure...

Too late now there on there way to the recycle center in Payette today... I guess there is no pics either... I was hoping my buddy would got pics of them and posted up...I did want to truck home grab the camera shot a few pics and then truck them back to New Meadows, ID 40 mile round trip for pics... Oh well...

I didn't any pics of mine... ( I know I'm usually good about that!) :banghead:

Already got 2 sets of steel wheels now...

We've got fire truck in the valley that sit with the very same fuel for years... Like I know of 1 fire truck where it just started and ran for a few minutes and shutdown. Never driven... They buy diesel for every few years... I've got a drum of diesel sitting in the yard that is sealed and about 4 years old and it just fine...

Replacing a VP44 is easy... But the root canal...

Sent a email to my buddy hoping he gets a picture of them before he hauls them for scrap...

Well I got a set of modular aluminum wheels coming and a set of 235/85 R16 (14 ply) tires coming. Oh! Its going to hurt...

Like I found out a very expensive desktop... I got a laptop too but can't upgrade it. Too old! (Sony VAIO AMD 800 MHz)

Yeap... Fuel sender is shot... Mine was running out of fuel and showed 1/2 or 5/8 of tank... Its a dealer only item but cost only $70 bucks to replace...

Laptops sux... This old dog will never die... I've rebuild this same case since 2001 when I bought it... 2400 AMD then 3000 AMD up to now with dual core 5200 AMD... Never spent more than $500 on a upgrade...

Well gang... I finally got bit by the the aluminum rim cracking problem. When in to try and have another set of 235/85 R16 tire put on them and the shop person called me back in the shop and 3 of my rims where cracked. So now I'm shopping for rim and tires again.. I already dropped my rims off with a friend to have them recycled and hopefully he remembers to drop some pics of it on the web...

I've got a story for you all... I got a phone call not too long ago to help a local gent here with a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 V8 that he had just change the clutch but someone had mickey moused the crank sensor. My first thing was I was going to print a copy of the error codes and take with me. I fired up the web site and start to print the error codes and realized at the last second that the printer is set for single side. So not to waste paper I flip the power switch off and back on to kill the printer job but left a half printed page jammed in the printer (PAPER JAM!). So I open it up and pull the toner out and carefully pulled the page out. Closed it up still got the error for paper jam. So I hauled to the job without notes.... Returned... Now I took the printer apart looking for broken parts. Trust me this Cannon ImageClass MF4150 printer is not exactly user friendly for taking apart. But I noticed a small piece of white plastic on the top on the printer thae was broken from somewhere. OK just look for the white plastic that is missing something. After about 1 hour I couldn't find nothing white broken... So I put it all back together again thinking maybe I disturbed it and maybe it would work. NOPE... Still a paper jam... Figuring I was SOL (Crap out of Luck) I would get the old Ink jet out and fire it up and use it. Well that was a mess. The printer is so old there isn't any 64 bit drivers first off and second off Lexmark doesn't have a full driver for it any longer (obsolete). Then to top it off the ink dried up... :banghead: Mopar Mom makes the comment "Well we aren't buying a new printer unless there is a hell of sale on them..." Great... I know that we both use the printer quite a bit. So knowing this I figured MF4150 is broke with a paper jam and I can't hurt it anymore that what it is... So I got more tools out and got busy tearing it down. Screw after screw I just keep removing everything and looking at every part for problems. I had a huge pile of parts on the floor and desk and just a gut printer frame with only the laser roller left. Careful I remove the paper guide on top and notice a spring was off its hook. Then notice the rod has a shutter flap that covers a eye that is totally mis-aligned. Could it be this easy? Well back to reassembly... Screw after screw re-assembled the print to the last 2 screws for the face and realized I had use to longer screw inside. Damn! So I had to tear it down a bit to find 2 longer screws or swap with the short ones. Got it back together and plugged in... No red light screaming Paper Jam! Right on... But I managed to save myself about $200 bucks on replacing a printer. Now why did it fail I realize now when I was pulling the paper out I was pull the up half of the page backward and the feeler arm was pulled backwards as well. When it bound up it popped the right side of the shaft up and released the spring for the shaft causing it to never return to a empty paper state but a paper jam state constantly. So I know better to try and pull from the top if I can or go very slowly...

Nevermind... Not enough coffee...

Just measure the the bed rim at the front and at the rear ofthe bed and you'll see its not the same...

I got 185K on the clock before changing my bal joints. I'm still running factory brake pas after 185K miles. My VP44 injection pump has 136K miles on it.. What are you talking about...

Not always... I've seen now... [*]Bad ECM cause a P1689 [*]Bad Fuel Pump relay in the PDC cause a P1689 [*]Bad driver side ground cause a P1689 And a few more I can't remember right now...

I'm wondering if you have a bad ground or pinched wire somewhere for thing to get hot typically requires a short to ground or a weak ground to make circuit back feed in not typical manner...

Ummm... From my old school days with 727 Transmission on V8 it might be a seal failure but more likely a front bearing had failed. It might be time to pull it out and have a shop at least look at the front bearing... I know its cheap to replace the seal but it sucks to have it start leaking again quickly after replacing... (Been there done that!)

Correct... But a bad front axle sensor will not effect the speedo...

PCM has nothing really to do with it... The Antilock Brake Controller sends it data out on the CCD network to be picked up by other devices. But it could be the controller is not the right one for the truck cause your issues... Now if the dealer had it hooked up to the scanner he should of been able to see the 3 wheel sensors (2 front axles and 1 rear axle). What it needs is same speed from all sensors all the the time and it should work. But if the controller is damaged or not the right one it might cause issues...