Mopar1973Man

Bring it to Idaho... Oh how I love to see the gassers whine some more...

Did you get any pics of this?

The rule of thumb is typical the ScanGauge II can see all factory sensor on the truck. So like I know there is no fuel pressure sensor for the lift pump so there is no fuel pressure gauge for the low side. It just a matter of addressing the PCM or ECM and getting the information.

I'll keep that in mind when mine fail again...

Well they will not tell you exact number I'm sure but they will most likely confirm that we are heading the right direction.

Over at RockAuto.com its only $16 bucks for a taillight...

MAP sensor and Coolant temperature both have bearing on the VP44. MAP sensor is going to be a measure of how much fuel to boost pressure. Once again it varies for me because my Edge Comp has the final say in way the boost pressure does in relation to the VP44 fueling map. The amount of boost is going to relate to the amount of lead in your boot and how fast your traveling like me with my 55 MPH habit now I typical see about 1-4 PSI of boost on flat ground. So boost is rather meanless to me too. Now the picture changes for me towing trailer now I'm 8-20 PSI. Coolant Temperature also has a effect with timing with a cold engine too. But if everyone is using a stock 190*F then the value is rather meaningless because this is where it matches. Typical engine temperature will vary about 193-197*F regardless of weather. It's just the cold start that is different. So now the only sensor IAT that floats around to relationship to outside temperature that weather DOES effect directly. But the funny part now going back to the old 12V days now those pumps had no relationship to coolant temperature or manifold temperatures. They just pumped fuel regardless of what the weather is so being we can gain control directly of one sensor and fool the ECM into thinking its summer why not... The coolant temperature is the same summer or winter (except for cold starts). So now everything should act like a 12V in theory. Like here in Idaho I'm still seeing snow in the high country (>5K Feet) I'm still seeing temps as low as 36-38*F in the morning but seeing high temps of 65*F now. So I'm seeing spring but my mornings are like winter time but my day is like late spring. Night time lows (May 2011) Daytime Highs (May 2011)

Dude sorry to hear it... Yeah I know what flooding and high water is like... All I can say is take care of you family first... We'll still be here when you get caught up.

Here you go... I went to the Tag cloud and checked out the wheel bearing link. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2963-Wheel-bearings-4x4-3500 Here is the other wheel bearing threads... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/tags.php?tag=wheel+bearings

7460# last time I was on the scales. Wow! You need to put that truck on a diet... Out getting a cord of firewood...

Jim is actuall on to something because as winter fuels are used the cetane is increased slightly to about ~45 cetane. This means the fuel ignites at a lower temperature easier. So with over advancement it would be like Jim is saying it would fight the pre-ignition more so. (heavy rattling noise). So using the theory of the +40*F offset to the 2nd Generation 24V engines this would give... Outside Temp - IAT Temp 30*F - 70*F40*F - 80*F50*F - 90*F60*F - 100*F70*F - 110*F80*F - 120*F90*F - 130*F100*F - 140*F I know the IAT temp to outside is NOT linear rise like I'm showing actually around 30*F there is a +50*F offset and round 90*F there is a +30*F offset. But I agree with you Russ the VP44/ECM is programmed for smog emissions. So it a matter of fooling the ECM it the direction that is the most efficent for us as owners. I really can careless about emissions because knowing I'm using less fuel I know that I'm creating less emissions too. Emissions can't be created from thin air... (Giving Russ a hand off his milk crate)

Actually is was to keep the engine fumes from entering the cab more so. Like I'm still starting my morning temps at 35-40*F but getting to a daytime high of 60-65*F. Thats one of the strange things of Idaho the night time lows rarely get above 55-60*F but the daytime highs can be near 85-90*F here at the house. This is a annoyance to me because it always cold enough to trip the grid heaters every morning. Thing is it still runs through my head that none of the 12V engine had any IAT control for the injection pump only for the grid heater. The injection pumps have a static timing (p-pump). So trying to follow ISX truck for MPG's and performance. It's possible to reduce the loss of MPG during cold weather.

Don't jump yet... I'm playing with different values and check to see the results of each. Then I might even try plugging the sensor back in and try that too... Got a funny feeling that will reduced the number slightly when the sensor is cold.

Tidbit of playing... I've now tuned down to 110*F as the weather warmed up and gaining even more MPGs... Like I said this only the design phase I'm playing with the temp setting and see the result differences... I'm closer to 23.5 to 24 MPG making a trip to New Meadows, ID to get propane. No topper! Winter fronts are now off for the season.

On rare occasions mine does the same thing but very very rare...

I'm prayin' for ya...

I think the whole problem of these bearing is the lubricant they use in them and how much. That is the only thing I hate about those bearing is there fact there is no way to pump more grease into them as a maintenance thing.

Can't knock a good diesel... (You tell him ISX)

Actually you're backwards... Center the wheels on the ground then adjust the turnbuckle till the steering wheel is straight again. Since the tire aren't going to move at all but the steering wheel has no resistance...

Well I done screwed up really good this time... I screwed up linux playing around and thought just re-install and all will be good again. I forgot to set the boot drive in BIOS so when the install ran it installed on the drive for linux but it re-wrote the boot sector on my windows drive. :banghead: After fighting with it for a while and getting the boot sector recovered then I managed to install it properly so GRUB is now my boot loader for both Windows (default) and Linux. So now I can flip flop back and forth... Still having problems with installing software like Java, Adobe flash, etc... Always seem like there is something new and different by each software designer. Rather annoying. What is worse is the instructions on installing never work for me... Then when I get it to work then I wonder did I install in the right folder? Most times not... Frustrated but still trying to learn... Like I think I figured out *.bin is like windows *.exe files... (Not sure)

Correct this is a old school Airdog Short Box bracket which is no longer produced. I'm hoping my conversation with AirDog will bring that into production... (wishful thinking)

Must not be very big trailer... :shrug:Even my 30 feet Jayco Eagle weighs in at roughly 7,200# with a GCW of 15,020# with the truck. So far I've not done much better than about 13 MPG towing my beast around. Even towing my 8x8 utility trailer with a cord of firewood I only get 14-16 MPG...

Hint hint... As for filter I've been down to -25*F with 2 micron and still no issues with gelling or plugging...

Rear cab taillight is leaking. As for carpet I give you a trick. Yank all the capet out and then take a power washer to it with a mild fan tip and washer the carpets out you'll be surprise how clean they get. Now knowing the stock carpet has padding glued to it you could power wash it and put the carpet down then the vinyl on top. Then you got sound deader...

I've got no switch on mine at all... But I've got no grid heaters either because the IAT temp is 140*F all the time. So yeah if you got the switched unit from Prowelder I would leave it off and let the engine warm up a mile or so and then kick it on then you can get grid heaters for cold start and then flip over to the fooler...