Everything posted by Mopar1973Man
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grey Haze???
No... Turbo has zero bearing on the grey haze at idle being the turbo making 0 boost at idle... But timing would have a bigger effect on haze than anything else... Oh yeah the other thing is weak lift pump ressure. Like Relentless just changed his lift pump and huge difference in performance. 6-7 PSI is normal.
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EGT probe location
Little better pic...
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They Didn't Take Gov. Money, But Read This
Summary needed... That is a huge thread I'll have to get back to it...
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My 99 2500 Mods
+1 Pictures needed!
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Yesterday was a bad day..and an expensive lesson
Glad your safe... The truck can be fixed... But I'm sure you'll block the tires next time... I had a simular thing happen in my yard with the TT. I thought the yard was level enough not to block the wheel of the trailer. So I unhitched and had it sitting on the jack block as usual bu the ground being soft it rolled just enough to drop the hitch on the ground and stop (about 2 feet). So now any time I working with a trailer I block both wheels.
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Aluminum Rim Failure
Here you go I got more information on it... http://www.bigotires.com/Tire-Detail/Voma/Solid-Trac/15374
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low fuel pressure lite ,Kit #41373
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/41373/10002/-1 Found it... Yes... I've got a low pressure light get my attention that something is wrong...
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low fuel pressure lite ,Kit #41373
I need to run back and place a link to this...
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Stumped, lose power brakes /hard pedal after prolonged application?
Only time you don't want to push the caliper piston back in is when you know you have a bound up piston. So like my truck right now the front caliper is binding up from debris most likely. So if you push it back in you take the risk of tearing chunks out of the seals. If you brakes are working fine then I've push the pistons back in as well. No issues here...
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new 40w ashless oil in fuel???
My bad... But still be careful with the mixture...
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Hello from texas!!!
Like the truck...
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new 40w ashless oil in fuel???
Remember the VP44 pump is designed for 3-5 cSt (centiStoke) fuel not 50 cSt @ 100*F its just way to thick. The only way you could burn large amounts of this oil is to heat it to 210*F then it drops to 9 cSt. So what happen is you put way more stress on the VP44 pump trying to push this thick cold oil in the cool mornings. Then the oil is so thick it doesn't atomize so it doesn't burn good either. Any oil is a cetane reducer so if you add too much oil the burn rate is so slow that you'll actually degrade your MPG number trying to save a few pennys... Once you drop below 100:1 ratio most people report back they lose performance and MPG. The exhaust smoke turns more white. 5% volume is 1.75 Gallons of oil which is cummins designed max... Which is 20:1 ratio. My biggest worry is the the oil viscosity more so that anything else that little VP44 has to pump up that oil to over 4,500 PSI just for a idle. Thicker the material the harder to compress...
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Stumped, lose power brakes /hard pedal after prolonged application?
Not a problem...
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new 40w ashless oil in fuel???
Hmmm... 40 weight... I would start out at 200:1 and work your way towards 128:1 then you can figure out your happy spot. But you won't need to go below 128:1 ratio and you shouldn't need to be above 200:1 ratio.
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Chasing EGTs: larger injector?
That seriously crazy EGT's there... Either need more boost pressure or your need smaller injectors...
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Photography - Snapshots of the Day
Now there is a real fixer-upper...
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Stumped, lose power brakes /hard pedal after prolonged application?
Is the pedal fighting you back? Like the ABS pump is runnig but like fighting to keep you from stopping? What I found out in my case was the 2 front sensor didn't match quite right and so the ABS pump was trying to keep the wheels from locking even though they were not locked. So if the wheel sensors are functional and showing speed but there is a mild offset to it it will treat it like there is excessive brake pressure on on side at this point you'd have a hard pedal. But since both sensor are functional its not going to throw the ABS light. You might consider replacing the other side so the are both matching...
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plastic tool size
Have no idea... All I know this was a unversial kit that fit many applications...
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plastic tool size
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P1689
Hmmm... Corroded connector or wet connector some where?
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Probe GT clutch
I guess it's time to pull the trans and look...
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DTCp0237
I guess they want this info... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1543&d=1281643335
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Probe GT clutch
Is the master cylinder hung up or damaged causing the pedal to hang down?
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Codes
Nope... ECM/PCM are just like your old 24V regardless of unplugging the batteries for a period of time the codes will remain. But codes will be cleared in 40 warm up cycles still... The CEL light will clear in a few key cycles typically but remember the code will remain.
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The Hillbilly Vasectomy