Mopar1973Man

Checks your fuses and then check the transmission relay there in the PDC swap it with like the horn or something...

Wow... What a mess... Russ would you be willing to post up some pics of this I'm sure other would like to know what to look for as in plumbing passing through walls and floors..

Congrads... Where is the pics?

Before for you start make sure to deal with the freon if any in the system. Simple job really everything unbolts but the one freon line which requires a release collar.

Well my local NAPA has one for $129... I told him to get it in which will be tommorow and I'll pull my old one off today so I can just swap right there on the counter.

Mouthful...

Ok gang... I got my next task at hand. Got up this morning and had to run to McCall to do a bit of grocery shopping and when I fired up the engine I had a strange growl/howl that was unsual. Went shopping and returned home and figured I would check it out. Pull the belt and check the tensioner bearing smooth and no wooble, water pump feels good, and the fan bear is good. But get to the alternator rough and howls when spun. Assuming I found my source of noise. I know Prowelder did a write up of a alternator rebuild on CF.com http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/257771-bosch-alternator-rebuild.html Also I know he got parts from Fixinrams.com http://www.fixinrams.com/ What the best price for replacement alternators?

I would have to say Pac-Brake is the best you can get a hold of but Jacobs Brake works just as well...

Wait till you pack them with mud and then they will weigh more than a standard tire...

Wow! That got hot... You might consider getting a Exhaust brake for sure or double checking to make sure the calipers are not hung up and dragging...

Well fuel pressure could be a factor but its unknown because of your broken gauge. MAP sensor could be another that is failed causing some of the issues. Remember a MAP sensor can fail in normal specs and not throw a code. 150*F is rather really cold for these engines your thermostat appears to be stuck open.

Just yank out the isolator... I'm directly plumbed to the gauge with Polyon Air Brake Line its about 57 cents a foot from a NAPA store. It rated for well over 150 PSI and will not break you can flex a piece of the line for hours and never break it. Use a needle valve for you damping valve and shut off so if there was a issue just close the valve.

Actually a properly running A/C unit should run constantly on a hot day and never cycle. Now cycling on a cool day is normal because the low side pressure is low or the low side temp is getting near freezing which will cause the compressor to cycle out. The whole idea is to get the evaporator near freezing without letting it freeze because as it cools the humid air it would freeze up and quit blowing. So yes in if its a mild day it should cycle in and out but a seriously 100-120*F I expect it to run constantly and never cycle because the evaporator will never reach freezing temps.

Well it might be worth it to do a compression test... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/compression/compression-test.htm Then have a shop actually pop and flow test the injectors...

Yeah your right but want I was refering to was in another thread with ISX... But yes you've told me too... Thing is I live in a area where there is very little flat ground its either all uphill or all downhill. I'm battling to squeeze every last ounce of MPG's out of my travels like this is one of my better tanks of fuel in a long time I'm right now at 24.3 MPG I'm trying to beat my 25.3 MPG highmark then go for the big prize and beat ISX's 27 MPG which will be tough... So like going from my house (2,800 ft) to New Meadows, ID (4,000 ft) and McCall, ID (5,200 ft) I've got to climb 35 miles of highway. So if I just the set cruise at 55 MPH in 5th gear I watch my pyrometer float between 800-1000*F the whole way to McCall, ID Same thing from returning from Riggins, ID (1,800 ft) to home (2,800 ft) its a uphill battle with EGT's at about 800-900*F the whole way home. Now as for yesterday I done 2 trips to Riggins, ID (A/C Jobs). On my way down hill I would use 5th gear and set the cruise for 55 MPH EGT's float right about 500*F the whole way giving me roughly 30-32 MPG for that leg of the trip. Then on the way home I leav it in 4th gear and set the cruise at 53 MPH and surprise it dropped the EGT's from 800-900* to 600-650*F and show up home with 23-24 MPG for the return leg. Normally if I left it in 5th coming home it would be more like 19-20 MPG.

Just stick the filter minder in the head of the BHAF and you'll know if its restrictive or not. The filter minder works from water column not mercury column so to pull the filter minder full span takes a very little amount of vacuum no more that sucking 44oz drink straw. Seriously...

Nice... The only thing I don't like about AirDog/Raptor now is that funky crimp hose and quick connector junk. Sure gives you no option for locating the pump some where different like the old school setup had the old push loc's and roll of hose so you could place it anywhere you whished. Other than that looks good...

Hmmm... I know ISX is a turbo nut and can pull one apart blindfolded... As for the oil typically yes it would be all over everything... It sure shows how poor the oil media filter are if that much dirt is getting through. You might consider BHAF they don't need oil and last much longer...

Make sense...

Ok... If it looks like there its going to be dirty all the way to the manifold... I would take the time and clean all the plumbing and the intercooler too. This is a common problem with the stock air box as the box ages it start to deform and no long hold a good seal on the filter panels so the dirt starts leaking into the turbo and the rest of the engine. Looking again.. I would say the oil might be from the turbo seal... You don't have a K&N filter do you?

Well the last time I look into replacement injector parts it seemed it was more expensive to get separate parts than it was to buy a set of injectors... But the biggest problem is re-pop testing the injectors... You would need the shims for adjusting the injectors and a pop testing bench. 24v Series... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/injector-cleaning/injector-cleaning.htm 12v Series... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen12v/injector-cleaning/injector-cleaning.htm

ISX got it covered...

Do you have your old stock injectors or can you get ahold of a set of stock injectors? That would be a way to verify this...

Well after playing with ISX idea of keeping 2K RPM towing... Well I got to admit it works if you travel like 50-55 MPH drop down to 1:1 (4th gear - NV4500 or Drive - 47RE) the RPM's shot up and float right at 2K roughly but the pyrometer falls another 300*F and tows with better MPG's. I was truely shocked... I even tried it empty and yes it works on a empty truck climbing grades. But for flat ground you can run the top gear.