Mopar1973Man

This is all in humor...

So it might be worth it to turn the rotors...

I wonder if the pads have the tappered lead and trailing edges? This tends to help with pad noise...

:cheerleader:Go Russ & Sheila

I've got both styles here... The 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 has the CAD system and the 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 has the solid axles. As for the CAD system if you loose vacuum the axles will not lock. Some convert to a manual pull cable setup so you get 2WD LO range. As for my solid axle Dodge the spinning axle really doesn't effect MPG's too much but I able to reach 21-22 MPG normally and high mark 25.3 MPG...

Might go and do the diagnostic on the box...http://articles.mopar1973man.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=53:high-idle-mod-diagnostic&catid=26&Itemid=107

Yeah I mention that before... P1688 is the one keeping it from firing...

I pull your post to a new thread so we can start fresh... So exactly whats going on? Any lights on the dash (ABS / BRAKE)?

Well just wondering around FASS and AirDog sites the both have fuel pumps for the 1st Gen truck and I was shocked to see the starting pressure set up for 10-13 PSI..Buddy Relentless70 has the old school mechanical pump and it good for 6-7 PSI...

JAG1 PM sent...

That should be very helpful...

Couldn't say any better Dripley...

I'm still running stock 3" pipe without a muffler. EGT's are very controllable even hauling 16,000# GCW with the Edge Comp (set to Max) and RV275 injectors. My Fuel mileage empty stay right at 21-22 MPG typically. As for the filter I'm running a BHAF...

No... It's just a home build trailer...

Ekkk... Well I'm not a tranny type guy... But I'm sure there some saavy guys here that could help you out some how...

Typically the o-ring should be lubed up before installing also the holes should be clean and smooth for a good seal. But no it shouldn't require a run period for a o-ring to setup.

Come on guys help a fellow CTD site out and grow a bit...

All 3 are lifetime warranty... But I tend to now side with FASS more so because of the plumbing and placement. AirDog/Raptor is a wonderful pump but being they converted over to the quick connect plumbing that is all pre-cut and crimped makes it bad for people with special mounting requirement like offrad usage you don't want you pump hanging down on the frame rail to get hit? Like the FASS has its problems too with some of there pumps being overly large and hard to place. But now with there newer line of pump it seem they are marketing to take over the lead placement. Also FASS is still using the old school Push Loc and JIC fitting so you can can custom mount your fuel pump where you want it!

I can provide OEM part numbers... 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 Upper Controls Arms (Left and Right) ------ 52106678AA Lower Left ------------------------------------ 52113679AA Lower Right ---------------------------------- 52113678AA Upper Bushing ------------------------------- 52037673 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 Upper Controls Arms (Left and Right) ------ 52038730 Lower Left ------------------------------------ 52037649 Lower Right ---------------------------------- 52037648 Upper Bushing ------------------------------- 52037673

Bump the starter the pump should run on for about 20-25 seconds. Here is the wiring diagram for ya...

Ok Rburks lets pull up some diagnostic info... DTC P0122: ACCELERATOR POSITION SENSOR SIGNAL VOLTAGE TOO LOW Description Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) voltage is monitored when engine is running. DTC may be stored if low voltage is detected on APPS signal circuit or low voltage is detected between Engine Control Module (ECM) and Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Possible causes are: defective APPS, defective ECM, defective PCM, or defective connectors or wiring. Testing [*] Turn ignition on with engine off. Using scan tool, check for ECM and PCM DTCs. If DTC P0122 is stored in both ECM and PCM, go to next step. If DTC P0122 is not stored in both ECM and PCM, go to step 8 . [*] Turn ignition off. Disconnect APPS sensor connector. APPS is located on bracket, just above fuel injection pump. Turn ignition on with engine off. Using DVOM, measure voltage between cylinder block and terminal No. 5 (Dark Blue/White wire) on APPS connector. If voltage is more than 4.5 volts, go to next step. If voltage is 4.5 volts or less, go to step 7. [*] 3. Turn ignition off. Ensure APPS connector is still disconnected. Measure resistance between terminal No. 4 (Black/Yellow wire) and terminal No. 5 (Dark Blue/White wire) on APPS connector. If resistance is greater than 5 ohms, go to next step. If resistance is 5 ohms or less, repair short between Dark Blue/White and Black/Yellow wires. The Black/Yellow wire is the sensor ground circuit. [*] Ensure APPS connector is still disconnected. Disconnect ECM connector. ECM is located on driver's side of engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50-pin connector. Measure resistance between ground and terminal No. 3 (Light Blue/Black wire) on APPS connector. If resistance is greater than 5 ohms, go to next step. If resistance is 5 ohms or less, repair short to ground in Light Blue/Black wire. [*] Ensure APPS and ECM connectors are still disconnected. Measure resistance between ground and terminal No. 5 (Dark Blue/White wire) on APPS connector. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, go to next step. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, repair short to ground in Dark Blue/White wire. [*] Turn ignition off. Ensure APPS connector is still disconnected. Reconnect ECM connector. Measure resistance between terminal No. 3 (Light Blue/Black wire) and terminal No. 4 (Black/Yellow wire) on APPS connector. If resistance is greater than 5 ohms, replace APPS. If resistance is 5 ohms or less, repair short between Light Blue/Black and Black/Yellow wire. The Black/Yellow wire is the sensor ground circuit. [*] Ensure APPS connector is still disconnected. Disconnect ECM connector. ECM is located on driver's side of engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50-pin connector. Using DVOM, measure resistance in Dark Blue/White wire between terminal No. 5 on APPS connector and terminal No. 31 on ECM connector. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, replace ECM. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, repair Dark Blue/White wire. [*] Turn ignition off. Disconnect PCM connectors. PCM is located at passenger's side rear corner of engine compartment. Measure resistance between cylinder block and terminal No. 23 (Orange/Dark Blue wire) on PCM connector C1. This is the APPS signal wire and goes to terminal No. 28 (Orange/Dark Blue wire) on ECM connector. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, go to next step. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, go to step 10 . [*] Ensure PCM connectors are still disconnected. Disconnect ECM connector. ECM is located on driver's side of engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50-pin connector. Measure resistance between cylinder block and terminal No. 23 (Orange/Dark Blue wire) on PCM connector C1. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, repair short to ground in Orange/Dark Blue wire between ECM and PCM. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, replace ECM. [*] Ensure ECM connector is still disconnected. Reconnect PCM connectors. Measure resistance between terminal No. 28 (Orange/Dark Blue wire) on ECM connector. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, go to next step. If open short to ground exists, replace PCM. [*] 11. Ensure APPS and ECM connectors are still disconnected. Measure resistance in Orange/Dark Blue wire between terminal No. 28 on ECM connector and terminal No. 23 on PCM connector C1. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, go to next step. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, repair open in open in Dark Blue/White wire between ECM and PCM. [*] Ensure PCM connectors are still disconnected. Reconnect ECM connector. Turn ignition on with engine off. Using DVOM, measure voltage between cylinder block and terminal No. 23 (Orange/Dark Blue wire) on PCM connector C1. If voltage is more than .4 volt, replace PCM. If voltage is .4 volts or less, replace ECM.

Welcome to the family... As for your issues with the lift pump you can temp wire it hot and see... But most times the stock pump fails at the hub internally. This plastic hub shouldn't fall out... I've seen where the plastic hub was round and slipped inside the hub and the plastic melted slightly it would bind back up and pump good for awhile till the pump slipped again. The other problem is the pressure regulator internally beats the seat up and the pressure falls off. There is a lot of options in fuel pumps but I would suggest a FASS/AirDog/Raptor...

Scotty II air Filter those are rare to hear about anymore...

Glad you had fun... Too bad you didn't bringg home some spending money...