Mopar1973Man

Time to drop the HVAC box and screen the vent opening... This will allow you to clean up the HVAC box and get rid of the smell. Yeah I know a long project but this will keep the critters from dropping back in on the blower again...

Like myself I've also been solely using only 2 cycle oil for the last 101K miles and no anti-gel, no injection cleaners, no cetane boosters. I've managed to get down to -25*F this last winter and no issues. I think todays fuel has all the cetane you need you really don't need to add more... As you can see the highier you make the cetane the lower the BTU content becomes... So its best to have low cetane fuels for you truck. Even Dodge suggest 40 cetane in the summer and 45 cetane in the winter. As for fuel lubricity its way under the mark for Bosch's standards. According to Bosch's testing in 2001 all fuels should have a score of less that 460 HFRR. But wait a minute all ULSD is ~520 HFRR... This is where 2 cycle oil steps in... As for injector cleaners... Most of them are solvent based and tend to strip the remaining lubricity out of the fuel much like dumping part solvent in diesel fuel. I highly suggest you don't use these products. As for anti-gel I'm either extremely lucky or the PPD (Pour Point Depressants) in the 2 cycle oil have been aiding me through these last few cold winters. I know that snowmobile 2 cycle oils have a pour point down to -40*F or -50*F here locally in Idaho. So it like saying I know water freezes at 32*F and if I dump in some saltwater (unknown mixture) it will freeze at a lower temp. But no one will know how low because the mixture of the saltware is unknown... Kind of like say diesel is equal to water and 2 cycle oil is equal to saltwater. Just my

Sounds like a blow head gasket...

Cummins dealer...

No problem... But I would use a better quality filter though... (Fleetguard, Baldwin, etc.)

I need some more people in the 500K and above range... I want ot post you guys/gals up on the the milestone page... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/milestone/milestones.htm

Following you with Frantz and doing just find...

First off the big 3 (Ford , Chevy and Dodge) have to quit playing this HP/TQ game of who can haul more. (Really stupid!) Then if Cummins was smart they would roll back to the 12V design because it was efficient of a engine and very simple. Now using all the technology of today and apply it to a 12V engine smaller HP number I'm sure you can get 30-35 MPG out of it and still have a modest 200 HP engine that will tow the family travel trailer, horse trailer etc...

I zoom in on the sign and boy that engine sucks in the juice at 20 GPH...

Like my stock clutch was starting to slip at 381 HP... So say 350 HP is a safe limit for a stock clutch. As for my Southbend ConOFE I've not seen it slip yet...

He's looking for this... The one on the right 2001... The one on the left is a 2002...

More and more I keep reading this the white smoke its a timing problem (retarded). I'm going to bet mrtowman4u is right...

Hitch up my Jayco Eagle and be loaded... It never stops whistlin' in Idaho... Now run around empty I barely make 3-5 PSI of boost...

I show the pics to MoparMom and she and myself is impressed with the bumper so far... You might end up make me one next...

Geez... Point out the bugs on the windshield...

According to my trusted tire dealer at Big O Tires in Ontario, OR (Mike) he sold a long hauler a set of these tires and was get over 60K miles out of them easy. Being they are CHEAPER than a LRE I might was well jump for the life and lower price on the LRG... The LRE's where $976 just for what I had (Big O AT 235/85 R16)... Where the LRG where $680 and the wheels on top put right at $1100... So if I was with the LRE's then I would of be more like $1416 for them... So I came out a head for the most part...

Yeah but Russ 2001 is one of those weird years the key trick doesn't always work on... Dumps the PCM but skips the ECM...

3K a rim is fine (6K for the axle)... I only put 1 cord of firewood on the the truck typically... Being that firewood ranges from 1,900 to 3,000 pound per cord dry. Then my rear axle weight currently is 3040 puond so it put me right close to limit on the high side. But as I load the truck I'm very aware of weight and amount sometime I put less on the truck just because of pure weight appearance... Firewood Weight... http://www.consumerenergycenter.org/home/heating_cooling/firewood.html So now another 1 cord on the trailer and I'm mean rolling load... But if I'm going to get serous wood hauling I typical switch off to my Cooper STT 265/75 R16 on steel rims. Those are load range E but a bit highier than typical at 3142 pound per tire. Just above the GAWR for the rear.

Typically yes... But you could check out the MAP sensor error codes... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/map-sensor/map-sensor-codes.htm

Well while you still got a leg to stand on I would start hunting for a ECM for a good price...

Sounds like time for new batteries and double check the cables (voltage drop test). Caj is right... Batteries have nothing to do with it...

Then go to... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/4225-Spring-Ride-in-Idaho

Welcome to the family here...

The only way to check a clutch is to phyiscally pull the transmission down and look... There is no inspection cover or holes to look through. But if its not slipping I would leave it alone for the moment... But if the pedal doesn't feel right you might think of replacing the hydraulics on the the clutch (master AND slave). --- Update to the previous post... The only way I know to check a clutch is to phyiscall pul the transmission down and look. As for the hydraulics you might consider replacing both the master and slave and be done.

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