Mopar1973Man

It's possible to have a VP44 fail without codes... Rare but possible...

:duh:You can't win for losing there ISX...

I've seen around 20-22 GPH on a WOT run with trailer in tow.

Typically in back there is sockets for keyboard, mouse and monitor.

DDRP has a few issues... 1. The older pump is only 40 GPH the newer pump is 80 GPH. 2. Still mounted on the side of the engine and too far from the fuel tank. 3. Still using the stock 6mm ID fuel line which is too small for volume requirement. So to resolve this issues you would have to contact Eric at VulcanPerformance and get a Big Line Kit and relocate the DDRP back near the fuel tank. This would solve the problems above... 2. Now be closer to the fuel tank. 3. Now would have 1/2" fuel lines for better volume of supply.

You just opened a can of worms...

:shrug:You might have to do some calling around and see what is out there... Maybe the counter guy your talking to just didn't care... I'm sure with a bit a phone calling you should be able to source out a electric door lock. Might check body shops for info too...

I'm right at 19-20 PSI now at idle and 17-18 at WOT... No problems to report with a VP44 with over 140K miles on it.

1/2" supply and stock return... VP44 is to the right the stock filter is to the left... AirDog 150 mounted behind the transfer case... All 1/2" lines... Stock Banjo vs. 1/2" JIC Fittings...

You forgot the voltage regulator...

I'm running all 1/2" ID fuel lines...

Actually that's not to good... :rolleyes:Here is my Fuel Pressure...

Interresting... I love to see that finished...

Problem everytime you clean the filter you break down the media more and take bigger risk at dusting out your engine. My last BHAF lasted 130K miles and 6 years without ever touching it once.

Here is both parts for ya.

No need to as release the throttle the VP44 shuts down and quits pumping all together so there is no need for neutral and all that. As long as the rolling RPM's are above idle RPM's then the injection pump shuts down. This is why 55 MPH speed limit for me works out so good because I get more coast time downhill slopes... As for the video... No I wasn't but the trailer has no really effect I just jake longer that all. Still don't use my brakes down any grades...

Nice job... :thumb1:Always nice to dress up the ol' Beast again!

Here is my 2 vids to show brake usage... Very rarely do I touch the brake pedal the exhaust brake does nearly 90% of all my stopping.

Sounds like a weight valve. As more weight is place in the bed of the truck more brake pressure is a applied to the rear axle. It also might be part of RWAL (Rear Wheel Anti Lock) if it got wires hook to it.Steel brake lines enter the bottom of the wheel cylinders just above that should be a bleeder screw.As for the rubber hose that might be routed along the frameand dead end with a plastic cap. That's the differential vent.

Ok... Learning experience... I'm sure you won't do that twice...1. I would remove and clean the reservoir so you can see the fluid inside.2. I would reload and rebleed the system and now start looking for any leaks.

Doing the same thing... I've got a set of Cooper STT's for the winter driving if needed.

Not hard... [*]Drain coolant. [*]Unhook all hoses and cooler lines. [*]remove coolant bottle and the windshiled bottle. [*]Remove the few screws and the clips holding the fan shroud. [*]Move fan shroud towards the engine and leave. [*]Unbolt the 2 bolts on the radiator. [*]Lift radiator out carefully.

Thank you for the look up...

Oh My Gawd... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CVdMySWfAIQ

Might try sending him a PM maybe he'll know more on it...