Mopar1973Man

Look at the scale for R134a and you'll see its 19-20*F temperature... Too cold.. Now look at your gauges... (Opps the red text should be lower 35*F and upper 40*F) Here is Dodge FSM suggested pressures... More freon the warmer its gets. As you see on the gauge as the pressure rises the temperature rises. When I was doing R12 A/C units they where charger to 40-60 PSI running. Then when I did fridgerators they where 2-5 PSI running. Take another look at the temp scale on your gauge and you'll see you need to add more freon yet.

Sorry...

Could you possibly fill in your signature with the information of your truck so other would know what you got...

Yeap your low on freon... As the pressure starts to drop a bit the temp of the evaporator falls more and with high humidity the icing starts forming and no its not normal you want it to sweat but not ice up on you. Because after a while the evaporator will freeze solid and not pass air. So as you increase pressure slightly to about 40-45 PSI on the low side it will stop icing up. Typically the low side switch should shut down the compressor for freezing conditions.

Might be a good idea... I'll add to the pile I'm finding more people with time problems. The truck might have really low mileage and the owner is all relaxed about it thinking the truck will last a life time. Not True! So just because the odometer is extremely low miles doesn't mean that something big won't fail. Just this month alone I've see 2 trucks now with less that 100K miles with fried ECM's (Lift pump circuit failed).

You might check over at the manufactures web site for the product and see if there is something your missing...

Try downloading one of the wiring diagrams and that will give you a clue at least on how its wired...

Correct... That little hole is the return line out to the fuel rail inside the head... That exits at the back of the head then tees together with the overflow and then heads to the fuel tank.

Being all communication is on the CCD Network that where I would start... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/ccd/ccd.htm Also be aware Dodge has a really weird com speed...

Overflow and the injectors are return to the tank... No lift pump pressure on the return rail.

Yeah I was looking for a small generator that was strong enough to handle at least the A/C or microwave. Neither MoparMom or myself want to be in paid RV park pack side by side with another RV. Done that a few times now and always got to worry about "Am I bothering the neighbors?" Hence with that we'll find our own plays along the road and just stop. So since that rolling box (we call a RV) is rather poorly insulated and you know if it sits in the sun in the summer its going to get hot so it would be nice to have enough power to do A/C... The rest of the time just run batteries for everything else... Seems to be American Based company. http://www.allpoweramerica.com/ I've never dealt with them either but I'll give it a shot... As for the Honda's they are nice generator but OMG the price!

Geez... You called me enough to fix your misfire... (Dang older people...) --- Update to the previous post... Comments in red... (So other can hear my half of the conversation...)

Time to get out the manifold gauges and check the pressures. I hate to say it but low freon will causing icing problem because lower the pressure colder it gets typically. This also could be a low side switch problem that is not cutting out the compressor to allow for thawing too.

Russ... Your idea rubbed off on us... MoparMom and myself are picking up a small generator as well for our RV. We figure with the amount you pay in a RV park for 1 night or 2 nights you coulg pay for a generator and stay out somewhere in the woods for much less. So here is what I found... http://www.allpoweramerica.com/assets/docs/132__specs.pdf Simular in design just a bit more power and slightly louder...

Sounds like time to check the brakes and bearings on the ToyHauler...

0-30 PSI on the fuel pressure. 0-35 PSI on the boost. 0-1600*F on the Pyrometer.

Same as what I've got... But it looks like your missing the dash switch... Yes you can wire in your own toggle switch I done the same thing with my truck but I'm going to have to take a peek at which wires I used.

That's the difference between the two series of trucks (2nd Gens & 3rd Gens)... Like the stretch of road from New Meadows,ID to Council, ID is windy roads and up and down... So empty yes that my typically way of doing it set my CC just low enough that I can swing all the corner without touching the brake. But with the trailer is starts pushing downhill and gaining speed so I got to cancel CC to gain control of the EB.

I only use it when it safe to... If I'm up here winding through the mountain that's not a good time to use it... But down in the flatland of southern Idaho sure I fire up the cruise and set it when hauling the 30' Jayco. I cancel the cruise going downhill so I have control of the exhaust brake and cancel on the uphill to control the EGT's.

Nature of the beast...

I know I'm a manual 5 speed but here is my 2 cents... I typically tow my 30' Jayco in 5th gear at 55-60 MPH with 3.55 rear end. But as soon as I can't hold 55 MPH I slip back to 4th at 50 MPH to protect the 5th gear nut issue. So now at 45-50 MPH in 4th gear I'm running right around 1800-2000 RPM's. When I leave home I find myself in 4th gear for quite a few miles because of the twisty windy roads around here. Once I make New Meadows Valley it pretty much flat and can pull in 5th for most everything. Why did I jump in the ring? Well 5 speed trans is really close to Auto. 4th Gear Auto 0.69:15th Gear Man 0.75:1 3rd Gear Auto 1:14th Gear Man 1:1 So when you push you OD OFF button you just the same as me in 4th Gear.

Increasing the cetane will make the fuel burn hard and fast like and hit like a hammer. Reducing the cetane will cause the fuel to burn slower and push more. I know AH64ID doesn't agree with 2 cycle oil but it worth a try (200:1 ratio).

The other problem with washable media filter is that most people end up getting dirt on both sides now when the filter dries then the dirt is released into the turbo and engine. Dry media filters are the best bet out there. Also people tend to grade filters on appearance. The filter minder does a excellent job of letting you know when to change the filter. The filter minder is in inches of water column not mercury. So its super sensitive to any vacuum just place the nipple of the filter minder your lips and lightly suck on the unit you'll find it moves rather easy. The other problem is the stock air box will deform over time and allow dirt to pass. There is 2 answers here.. 1. Grease the filter on both side of the gasket so the grease fills the void of the deformed plastic housing. (Messy but works).2. BHAF or aftermarket filter assembly. BHAF work really well in dirt conditions and are extremely cheap over most all name brands.

Because the solenoid will blow the bulb in a short amount of time thats why there no longer offered. Now a tidbit of info neither normal blubs or LED lit switch will survive the solenod pulse. I've tried both in my truck and typically about 1-2 days the bulb is blown in the switch. My last one was a pretty blue LED that lit up when the jake was active. (POOF!)

Meth/water injection is all based on boost pressure so if your like myself where I only see 2-5 PSI typically I would never really use the water/meth injection. But now towing you'll see for sure but how much bonus I don't know... Johnfak (member here) is a good person to ask thought.