Mopar1973Man

Hmmm... Here is something to consider. I own a 2002 Dodge Cummins haul firewwod every summer out of the high country (2-3 cords a trip). Would you believe I've never done a brake job yet on my truck with 185K miles on the clock. Why??? Because I've got a exhaust brake which does 90% of all my brake work. So my brake last extremely long. Exhaust brake are designed for manual tranny truck but can be retro fitted to automatics too... But next set of brake pads will be the cheapest ones I can find...

Typically most all aftermarket pump have a control relay unless its one of the cheap factory replacement pump like FASS DDRP or simular. Not sure on ECM replacement but I know that the VIN number has to flash into it... I know Dodge gets there ECM blank and you must bring the truck to them and have it flashed.

Welcome to the site. There is alot of knowledgeable people here that can help you out with more everyday issues of one type or another. So post plenty of question and we'll try to answer them if not we'll find someone that can...

You'll have starting issues because during cranking the fuel pump is modulated at 50% duty cycle to reduce fuel pressure during cranking. So more than likely this is not the answer to your problem. But if the ECM is not supplying good power your most likely going to have ECM problem eventually...

AirDog, FASS or Raptor... They are complete kits with plumbing, electrical, fittings, etc. Also come with a lifetime warranty. Just don't do a stock replacement pump or a FASS DDRP (Dodge Direct Replacement Pump). These are junk because they don't deal with the plumbing, locations, or increase flow. But I question the life of the injection pump still being the fuel pressure is way too low... Fuel pressure is exactly like oil pressure. A engine will run with low oil pressure but how long till there is bearing damage? Same thing with a VP44 the fuel is the lubricant and if the fuel pressure is low how long till the VP44 is damaged? Truth is some get lucky and some don't...

Fuel pressure way too low... Book standard is 10 PSI as a minimum and I'm suggesting of keeping 14 PSI fo long life. But it could be the injection pump is internally damaged and can't produce the fuel required for the truck. As for fuel pressure I run now 18 at idle and 16 at WOT with 15,000# GCW truck and trailer.

Fuel pressure and error codes (using a code reader)?

I talked with JL Welding about this I guess one of his friends was working on a ball joint heated as well and it exploded and went through the shop roof 22 feet above them! So... People be careful heating ball joints up they can and will become projectiles...

I didn't really look I was too tired to care... Here is the lower ball joint we removed... James kept the ball stud...

Funny part the wheel bearing came out easy because they where done last year in Ontario, OR so I got lucky on that... I'll tell you I'm one sore person this morning... Swing sledge hammers and pulling on a 4 foot bar does a number on a person...

Relentless you might stop in Council, ID at the scale and get a front and rear axle weight to get a feel for how much you got. Then compare the weights to your front and rear GAWR (listed on the door) and see if your exceeding.

Well gang... I started down the long rocky trail of doing ball joints on my truck. Took me over 12 hours to do just the passenger side. As for getting every broke down for removal was a snap. Now the hub nut on the spindle is 1 11/16 nut and had to drive to town and get the right socket. ($14) as for getting the wheel bearings out snap to with a partner there to help out. The socket extension trick does work but not as documented. My buddy James used a longer extension and allow it to push off different areas of the axle tube.Other than that no problem. Take a 8# sledge hammer and nail the top of the knuckle near the upper ball joint and off it came. Now as for using the Harbor Freight ball joint press tool. Well it works but you got to be creative with it. We started with the lower ball joint and with even using a cheater pipe on the ratchet we couldn't get it to move. So after calling a few local tire shops most suggested heating and beating with a sledge. DANGER! At this point we broke out with the torch and heated the knuckle up good and hot. I took a good swing at the ball joint and BOOM! The ball joint exploded! Seriously! When it exploded it sound like a 30-06 going off! The actual ball stud came out in serious force chipping the concrete and hit by buddy James which was standing at the front of the truck and was struck in the thigh. James is alright and not hurt. No bruise even... But very scary... Well as for the lower joint we weren't out of the woods yet. So now the guts are gone in the joint we fire up the torch and burn a hole through it. Then using a hacksaw cutting release points in the ball joint. Now taking a large chisel and collapsing the ball joint inward we gain some slack to get it to move. Now using the HF ball joint press we got the lower ball joint out. Now with the upper joint we too freaked out after the explosion we opted to us the HF tool again but go full torque pray the tool held up. Using a 4 foot square tube over the ratchet handle I pulled like rowing a boat. I had James standing in front of me for a base to push from. BOOM! The tool held up but ball joint exploded again popping out of the upper hole. I landed flat on my back from pulling so dang hard... At this point we grabbed a bit to eat here at the house. But went back to reassembly of the passenger side. I use a chainsaw file to de-burr the holes and makes sure the holes where clean. Using a generous amount of anti-seize on the holes and proceeded to use the ball joint press and drive the new joints into the axle. This point thing seem to go good and re-assembly was fine. My day ended at 11pm...

Some where you got a air leak into the low pressure side. Since your dealing with all the old school banjo bolts double check all your sealing washers and be sure they are in place. Then if there is any fuel leaking most likely that is your air leak. Now that said there might be a seal leak problem on the suction side with the quick connector. Tip: Park the truck nose down and see if the problem disappears... If so then its a for sure air leak.

Is the Rear Wheel ABS system functional?

Nope nothing so far with ours... Just when you get a misfire code check your vacuum lines not the spark plugs...

To show you my thanks... Your hydrobooster article is posted on the web site... Thanks! http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/33-brake-system/79-brake-hydrobooster-rebuild

Well that strange... Double check the front end again using a pry bar and check the ball joints for movement. Verical movement is fine but left/right movement is bad. 4WD axles have ball joint that do not articulate. It basically a round rod in a casing not a ball stud. Rather odd but yes offset ball joints will correct that but the tire / alignment shop would have to install them so they can set the chamber during the assembly process.

Hmmm. I would get ahold of the alignment shop again being they should have a warranty on there work. Let them look at it.

Need more pictures...

$4.369 in New Meadows, ID - No change... --- Update to the previous post... We are not out of the woods yet... http://www.nypost.com/p/news/business/the_living_easy_the_driving_is_hard_9mzb1aAfj4bpC8X63YYKhI

So far my cheapy from RockAuto is doing good... But I got to admit my Cooper STT 265/75 R16's put a lot of stress on the track bar...

Yes the oil filter mount has a oil cooler on the back side that acts as a oil cooler bathed in engine coolant. So yes you must drain the coolant...

I would most likely park it... At this point you could get it rebuilt but drive it longer and you will have a major failure...

Ummmm... You not a fully loaded at gross truck weight? There is no need for 80 PSI in the tires... Give you example... My Truck weights Front Axle 4,420#Rear Axle 3,040#Total -- 7,460# Tire Capacity 3,412# @ 80 PSI (Cooper STT 265/75 R16 Load Range E) 4,420# / 2 = 2,210# per tire front axle.5,200# / 2 = 2,600# per tire at GAWR (Front) 2,210# / 3,412# = 64% of tire capacity in weight2,600# / 3,412# = 76% of tire capacity at GAWR (Front) 80 PSI x 64% = 51 PSI Inflation pressure for the front.80 PSI x 76% = 60 PSI Max Inflation for GAWR (Even though tire is rated to 80 PSI) 3,040# / 2 = 1,520# per tire rear axle.6,084# / 2 = 3,042# Per tire at GAWR (rear) 1,520# / 3,412# = 44% of tire capacity in weight3,042# / 3,412# = 89% of tire capacity at GAWR (rear) 80 PSI x 44% = 35 PSI Inflation for the rear tires.80 PSI x 89% = 71 PSI Max inflation for GAWR (Even though tire is rated to 80 PSI) So over inflating tires does nothing for MPG's but it makes for a very rough ride and wears the center of the tread out rapidily. Oh yeah reduce your 2 cycle oil to 128:1 or 1 oz for every 1 gallon of fuel 1.5 quarts is a bit too much...

No... I don't have a write up on it...