Mopar1973Man

I zoom in on the sign and boy that engine sucks in the juice at 20 GPH...

Like my stock clutch was starting to slip at 381 HP... So say 350 HP is a safe limit for a stock clutch. As for my Southbend ConOFE I've not seen it slip yet...

He's looking for this... The one on the right 2001... The one on the left is a 2002...

More and more I keep reading this the white smoke its a timing problem (retarded). I'm going to bet mrtowman4u is right...

Hitch up my Jayco Eagle and be loaded... It never stops whistlin' in Idaho... Now run around empty I barely make 3-5 PSI of boost...

I show the pics to MoparMom and she and myself is impressed with the bumper so far... You might end up make me one next...

Geez... Point out the bugs on the windshield...

According to my trusted tire dealer at Big O Tires in Ontario, OR (Mike) he sold a long hauler a set of these tires and was get over 60K miles out of them easy. Being they are CHEAPER than a LRE I might was well jump for the life and lower price on the LRG... The LRE's where $976 just for what I had (Big O AT 235/85 R16)... Where the LRG where $680 and the wheels on top put right at $1100... So if I was with the LRE's then I would of be more like $1416 for them... So I came out a head for the most part...

Yeah but Russ 2001 is one of those weird years the key trick doesn't always work on... Dumps the PCM but skips the ECM...

3K a rim is fine (6K for the axle)... I only put 1 cord of firewood on the the truck typically... Being that firewood ranges from 1,900 to 3,000 pound per cord dry. Then my rear axle weight currently is 3040 puond so it put me right close to limit on the high side. But as I load the truck I'm very aware of weight and amount sometime I put less on the truck just because of pure weight appearance... Firewood Weight... http://www.consumerenergycenter.org/home/heating_cooling/firewood.html So now another 1 cord on the trailer and I'm mean rolling load... But if I'm going to get serous wood hauling I typical switch off to my Cooper STT 265/75 R16 on steel rims. Those are load range E but a bit highier than typical at 3142 pound per tire. Just above the GAWR for the rear.

Typically yes... But you could check out the MAP sensor error codes... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/map-sensor/map-sensor-codes.htm

Well while you still got a leg to stand on I would start hunting for a ECM for a good price...

Sounds like time for new batteries and double check the cables (voltage drop test). Caj is right... Batteries have nothing to do with it...

Then go to... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/4225-Spring-Ride-in-Idaho

Welcome to the family here...

The only way to check a clutch is to phyiscally pull the transmission down and look... There is no inspection cover or holes to look through. But if its not slipping I would leave it alone for the moment... But if the pedal doesn't feel right you might think of replacing the hydraulics on the the clutch (master AND slave). --- Update to the previous post... The only way I know to check a clutch is to phyiscall pul the transmission down and look. As for the hydraulics you might consider replacing both the master and slave and be done.

This is video 1 of 2...

Hmmm... New Meadows, ID (north 20 miles)... Somewhere down in the second valley is home...

Not too bad I've done one before... It about $25 bucks for the gasket... Just everything on that side of the engine has to come off and out of the way...

Spun the tires eh? http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/abs/abs.htm (Bottom of the page)

Look like a good start on a deer strainer...

ScanGauge II is coming out with a USB cable update that allows you to record data nad then download the data to your computer and view it in graph form. Then the 24 XGauges that allow you to program custom gauges. Then ScanGauge II is made in the USA where UltraGauge is foreign made.

Dang Russ... After all the years of living here in Idaho the only place I typically find mice is in the wood shed. But you have in your house, in your RV and in your vehicles...

Ok... But lets toss in another angle of valve float. There is a certain amount of time that the spring takes to return the valve to closed position. I know this is a big factor on high performance engine and why they use heavier valve spring. I know the 24V cummins has 60# spring from the get go but I was hunting one time with ISX and found that they had 150# (plus) valve springs for the really crazy race nutz... So of course the valve float would occur early for stock springs vs a heavy valve spring. This is a gasser video but the same principals apply...

No different that my 2nd Gen 24V... It nearly black in a few hundred miles... There is a tiny of black after a change but still transparent. Color of the oil is meaningless... Think about it Caj was running 20K miles between oil changes all the way to 1 million... But changed at some point got worried. But even here locally I've heard several Cummins owners changing oil at 15K to 20K miles with standard petroluem based oils... Each his own...