Mopar1973Man

The reason why the dealer was tell you to put a intank pump in is because the fact no pump is designed to suck fuel any length of distance. So most of use have move the lift pump back close to the fuel tank reducing the suction required (lift).But I would look into pump relocation kit (Vulcan Performance) and move the FASS back by the fuel tank with all 1/2" lines...

Calculated flow rate of 1/2" ID pipe 15 foot long at 15 PSI should be capable of over 500 GPH. But the stock tubing is actually 6mm ID which is only good for about 75 GPH at 15 PSI... This is all calculated numbers... Real world flow rates with elobws and such are tyically lower...

But pull the filter out briefly and look at the center tube notice the holes are at the top. So technically there is no where for the fuel to go...

I've got thing about USFS... :nono:After going through the Poe Cabin fire here in Idaho I will never believe anyone that tells me fire is a good thing... Bulls__t!!! The only thing fire done was line everyone pockets with lots of money.. Huge loss of forest though... I'm still cutting burnt trees for firewood...

I guess not... Sad to see people getting hurt but that is plum wild to see 100 pound chunk of steel flying...

The center tube might be damaged or the water drain is leaking... :shrug:Because at least on my truck the plastic center tube has the outlet hole at the top and should hold fuel without draining out. So if the water drain is leaking then it will keep draining out on you adding air to the system creating a hard start...

Well this might help by going back to the main forum page scroll down and check the tag cloud for A/C or Air Conditioning. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/tags.php?tag=air+conditioning http://forum.mopar1973man.com/tags.php?tag=a%2Fc Hopefully those help out... Tag cloud is very helpful!

Try placing the trans in Neutral for a short span give it a bit of rev and then select a gear. If this improve the shift issue then its a bleed back issue on the torque converter. I know on the Dodge Rams they have a check valve. But for Jeep I'm not sure. Might wonder over to www.ramforum.com and ask these boys they might have a tidbit more information on it. Worth trying...

Actually it should be open by 20 PSI. You'd be surprised how fast that opens and how like it actually moves...

Your welcome I'm glad we got you running again...But it seem the electrical problems are now starting to hit these truck after 10-11 years of ago.. Might be a good time to cram dielectric grease in all the sockets again.

Would any of you guys and gals be willing to give aid to a fellow forum owner? RamForum.com can use some information and tales from you guys and gals. Their diesel database is rather empty and its really hard to attract anyone to visit a forum if the forum areas are empty. So I'm going to be aiding RamForums.com and getting them jump started with information. Is there any other people willing to jump in with me? I got to admit after wondering through their site they have a huge wealth of Gasoline power Ram information... So come follow me and give them a hand gang... www.ramforum.com http://www.ramforum.com/f65/

Sooner or later you'll run into FlagmanRuss with his Dodge Cirrus car that has had a few problems...

Hey Gang...I got to introduce Ramhunter9. He's one of the owners of RamForum.com. His site has a pile of information for Gasoline Powered Dodge Ram's so fo any of you guys and gals that need a hand with your gasoline powered Dodge I'm sure they go someone that can help...

Well that a old school draw straw for ya... I know better and still did it... Oh Well... But if you notice I drop the throttle quickly and let it build again then hammer down again... I'm not to worried I'm running 2 cycle oil... I normally drive with a light foot and concerve fuel... This is not a good example of this...

I've got a AD150 and still do better... How is that??? :shrug:17.5 @ idle14.5 - 15.0 @ WOT to 75 MPH

Ahh... I see your sneaking around... Welcome to the group...

I run a Edge Comp with the VP44 tapped and been getting about 21-22 MPG empty and 12-13 MPG towing my Jayco Eagle TT. I leave the Edge Comp on 5x5 and tow even on the highest settings without problems. I just monitor EGT's climbing high and adjust speed accordly to the EGT's... 6% grade I go over without even slowing down much 60 MPH and 1,100*F EGT's.Here is a sample of my MPG's on flat ground...

Basically what most of all the step do is verify there is no broken or corroded wires... Then it verify there are not shorted wires to ground or power. I typically hit every step and just check each step to see if it passes or fails it... It might give more clues.

I went through 3 of them in about a 1.5 year time... (35K miles)

Just because you idle pressure is fine doesn't mean your WOT pressure is good too... From another member of the site... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=NB8o24rw1eU So when testing fuel pressure you need 2 number idle and WOT pressure. Because as you just seen you can have a great 19 PSI and at WOT fall to ZERO and be ruining a VP44 in very little time...

I'm looking for answers to steps...2,3,5,6,8,9,10,11,12Step 4 you got a voltage when it should resistance (ohm value).Then I can tell if its a wiring issue, APPS issue or ECM problem...

Well you could use a tapped banjo bolt and hook up the gauge... That's about it... Mechanical gauge tend to last much longer life span wise over electric gauges which tend to have sender fail over time. With any fuel system it going to most likely replace all the plumbing. But if you just trying to save a few nickles you could buy a big line kit from Vulcan performance and then get a cheaper lift pump like AirTex or simular. But the problem is the cheaper pump typically have a limited warranty. But its still a option. As for gauges I personal prefer the mechanic gauges over electronic gauges. Mechanical gauge react instantly to changes like a sticking regulator valve will show up on a mechanical gauge with sudden drp and rises kind of flicking movement but a digital gauges tend to be late and slow to update. Electric gauge might do really good too but they tend to loose there accuracy over time as the rheostat sender wears out.

Sure can... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=29:antilock-braking-system-abs&catid=23&Itemid=107 Now double check your fuses with a ohm meter I've found fuse that have cracked and never blown out. What happens as a load is place on the fuse it will heat up and seperate and open circuit then you get the lights then the fuse cools and connects again and light go out...

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2566-P0223-Idle-Validation-Signals-Both-High-(Above-5-Volts) Monitor & Set Conditions Idle validation signals are monitored when ignition is on and engine is running. DTC P0222 may be stored if Engine Control Module (ECM) senses no voltage signal or the same voltage from Idle Validation Switch (IVS) No. 1 and IVS No. 2. DTC P0223 may be stored if ECM senses the same voltage from IVS No. 1 and IVS No. 2. [*]Accelerator Pedal Position Switch (APPS) Idle Validation Switch (IVS) No. 2 Harness Short To Ground [*] APPS IVS No. 2 Shorted To APPS Return Circuit [*] APPS IVS No. 2 Shorted To APPS Sensor Ground [*] IVS No. 2 Open Between APPS And ECM Harness Connectors [*] APPS IVS No. 1 Shorted To APPS Sensor Ground [*] APPS IVS No. 1 Shorted To APPS Return Circuit [*] APPS IVS No. 1 Harness Short To Ground [*] IVS No. 1 Open Between APPS And ECM Harness Connectors [*] IVS No. 1 Circuit Open [*] ECM 1. Turn ignition off. Disconnect APPS harness connector. APPS is located on bracket, just above fuel injection pump. Check for poor connection/terminal contact at APPS harness connector. Repair as necessary. Start engine and allow engine to idle. Using DVOM, measure voltage between ground and terminal No. 6 (Brown/Orange wire) on APPS connector. This is the IVS No. 1 circuit. If voltage is greater than 4.5 volts, go to next step. If voltage is 5.5 volts or less, go to step 8 . 2. With engine idling, using DVOM, measure voltage between ground and terminal No. 2 (Light Green/Dark Blue wire) on APPS harness connector. This is the IVS No. 2 circuit. If voltage is 4.5 volts or less, go to next step. If voltage is greater than 4.5 volts, test is complete. ???? So what did you get? 3. Turn ignition off. Check for continuity between ground and terminal No. 2 (Light Green/Dark Blue wire) on APPS harness connector. If continuity exists, go to next step. If continuity does not exist, go to step 7 . ???? So what did you get? 4. Ensure ignition is off and APPS harness connector is still disconnected. Disconnect ECM harness connector. ECM is located on driver's side of engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50- pin connector. Check for continuity between ground and terminal No. 2 (Light Green/Dark Blue wire) on APPS harness connector. If continuity exists, repair short to ground in Light Green/Dark Blue wire between APPS and ECM. If continuity does not exist, go to next step. Hua??? This should be a Ohm value??? 5. Ensure ignition is off. Ensure APPS harness connector and ECM harness connector are still disconnected. Check for continuity between terminal No. 2 (Light Green/Dark Blue wire) and terminal No. 4 (Black/Yellow wire) on APPS harness connector. If continuity exists, repair short between Light Green/Dark Blue wire and Black/Yellow wire. If continuity does not exist, go to next step. ???? So what did you get? 6. Ensure APPS harness connector and ECM harness connector are still disconnected. Check for continuity between terminal No. 2 (Light Green/Dark Blue wire) and terminal No. 1 (Black/Light Blue wire) on APPS harness connector. If continuity exists, repair short between Light Green/Dark Blue wire and Black/Light Blue wire. If continuity does not exist, replace and program the ECM. See appropriate REMOVAL, OVERHAUL & INSTALLATION article. ???? So what did you get? 7. Ensure ignition is off and APPS harness connector is still disconnected. Disconnect ECM harness connector. ECM is located on driver's side of engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50- pin connector. Check continuity of Light Green/Dark Blue wire between terminal No. 2 on APPS harness connector and terminal No. 16 on ECM harness connector. If continuity exists, test is complete. If continuity does not exist, repair open in Light Green/Dark Blue wire between APPS and ECM. Means the wire between the APPS and the ECM are good! 8. Turn ignition off. Ensure APPS harness connector is still disconnected. Check for continuity between ground and terminal No. 6 (Brown/Orange wire) on APPS harness connector. If continuity exists, go to next step. If continuity does not exist, go to step 12 . ???? So what did you get? 9. Ensure ignition is off and APPS harness connector is still disconnected. Disconnect ECM harness connector. ECM is located on driver's side of engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50- pin connector. Check for poor connection/terminal contact at ECM harness connector. Check for continuity between terminal No. 6 (Brown/Orange wire) and terminal No. 1 (Black/Light Blue wire) on APPS harness connector. If continuity exists, repair short between Brown/Orange wire and Black/Light Blue wire. If continuity does not exist, go to next step. ???? So what did you get? 10. Ensure APPS harness connector and ECM harness connector are still disconnected. Check for continuity between terminal No. 6 (Brown/Orange wire) and terminal No. 4 (Black/Yellow wire) on APPS harness connector. If continuity exists, repair short between Brown/Orange wire and Black/Yellow wire. If continuity does not exist, go to next step. ???? So what did you get? 11. Ensure APPS harness connector and ECM harness connector are still disconnected. Check for continuity between ground and terminal No. 6 (Brown/Orange wire) on APPS harness connector. If continuity exists, repair short to ground in Brown/Orange wire. If continuity does not exist, test is complete. ???? So what did you get? 12. Ensure ignition is off and APPS harness connector is still disconnected. Disconnect ECM harness connector. ECM is located on driver's side of engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50- pin connector. Check for poor connection/terminal contact at ECM harness connector. Repair as necessary. Check Brown/Orange wire for continuity between terminal No. 6 on APPS harness connector and terminal No. 1 on ECM harness connector. If continuity exists, test is complete. If continuity does not exist, repair open in Brown/Orange wire between APPS and ECM. ???? So what did you get?