Mopar1973Man

4420# Front axle3040# Rear axle7460# Total

It should not be parallel it should be across the pins of the IAT plug. IAT sensor should not be hooked up... Or build this part of the high idle mod... Build the ECT fooler the upper one... Then change the ECT plug for IAT plugs... Then use your resistor... This will give you control of the IAT sensor or the fooling resistor.

... Seriously... What does the CD player and the GPS have in common???

Like when Dieselpower mag did the 30 MPG truck they had cover the grill and ran the temps all the way up to 205-208*F and improve effiecncy of the engine. Cold thermostat is bad new. The oil temp never comes up, oil doesn't flow like it should, and increase drag on the engine...

Sounds about right...

Plus one other down fall is the high ash content of ATF... It will plug up injection and coat the pistons top with ash deposits...

Winter front on too?

I know that are quite well... I see you figure out how to reduce your torque curve a bit to gain traction.

Not a TBI... Its FI... I'm not the type to give up easy... I'm going to try and learn all the trick of the V8 gasser like I've been doing on the Cummins Diesel. If I'm capable of going from 16-17 Stock and reach all the way to 25 MPG (highmark) then I know I can do something with this gasser. It going to take time and study work to figure it out.

Axle bearings, wheel seals, knuckle boots are a really PITA but its a common failure. You'll end up with gear lube soaked brakes and drums. Engine wise they are nearly bullet proof. The turbo charged engine are MUCH stronger than the non-turboed. They are not know for high road speeds (Max of about 55 MPH) but they will pull huge amount of weight without thinking twice... Injection pump is simular to the ol' VE pump in the first gen once you look at you'll understand what I mean. Here is Water Tender 6

Figures you would do that... :lmao:But still it gives me a project to work on this winter to get that beast back like it was when I first got it. I was seeing 16-17 MPG. I'm waiting for weather to straighten out for a few days so I can get to Boise, ID for oil and other stuff.

THe local fire dept has 3 Deuce and a Half truck used for water tenders... What you want to know since I did the maintenance on them for over 6 years...

All I can say is a internal ECM problem because once the ECM is replaced the problem goes away...

Yeah there is a post here about the 3.9L cam chain problem too. I know the 5.9L doesn't have that particular problem but it would be worth looking at the condition of the cam chain.But since I done the plenum gasket and got it done it runs a whole lot better but the MPG's around here short tripping and with the cold is about 12-14 MPG at best. But with diesel at $4.499 and gas at $3.629 I drive a gaser...

So I gather you never found another bracket?How about a picture of what you done?

There should be a green and blue wire going to the field wire of the alternator. The blue wire should be hot 12V when the engine is running and the green wire should be a variable ground. Now the PCM is the voltage regulator so if the alternator is still not working right you might end up doing a old school regulator or changing out the PCM. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/voltage-reg/voltage-reg.htm

Here is ISX writeup... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=20:engine-valve-lash-adjustments&catid=8&Itemid=106

Stock radio fell out of the dash within the first month of ownership... I've got a like new stock cassette deck sitting in my garage... :whistle:I held on to it because if the day comes to sell the rig I will stick it back in and pull out my kenwood...

Grid heater draw 195 Amps when functional... The alternator can only produce 120 Amps.. So there will be voltage drop and this is now based on how strong your batteries and condition of the battery cables. Any weakness in either will show with more voltage drop. This is how I power my house with 820 Ah's worth of batteries weighing in at 1,000 pounds... (double ought Cables too!) So I got a really good understanding of batteries and loads... Like since I'm 24V system here and the house has a max of 4,000w than means my max draw is 166 Amps... Grid heater consume 2,340w at 12 Volts... Anyway you slice it that is a huge amount of power being such from 2 smaller batteries and 1,440 watt alternator.

This is the 24V IAT sensor values which might just work for ya...[TABLE][TR][TD=width: 50%, bgcolor: #3870cc]Temperature[/TD][TD=width: 50%, bgcolor: #3870cc] Resistance[/TD][/TR][TR][TD=width: 50%] 13°F[/TD][TD=width: 50%] 56K ohms[/TD][/TR][TR][TD] 26°F[/TD][TD] 39K ohms[/TD][/TR][TR][TD=width: 50%] 87ºF[/TD][TD=width: 50%] 7.4K ohms[/TD][/TR][TR][TD=width: 50%] 91°F[/TD][TD=width: 50%] 6.8K ohms[/TD][/TR][TR][TD=width: 50%] 100°F[/TD][TD=width: 50%] 5.6k ohms[/TD][/TR][TR][TD=width: 50%] 107°F[/TD][TD=width: 50%] 4.7K ohms[/TD][/TR][TR][TD=width: 50%] 112°F[/TD][TD=width: 50%] 4.3K ohms[/TD][/TR][TR][TD=width: 50%] 119ºF[/TD][TD=width: 50%] 3.6K ohms[/TD][/TR][TR][TD=width: 50%] 123ºF[/TD][TD=width: 50%] 3.3K ohms[/TD][/TR][TR][TD=width: 50%] 127ºF[/TD][TD=width: 50%] 3.0K ohms[/TD][/TR][TR][TD=width: 50%] 132ºF[/TD][TD=width: 50%] 2.7k ohms[/TD][/TR][TR][TD] 143°F[/TD][TD] 2.2k ohms[/TD][/TR][TR][TD] 148°F[/TD][TD] 2.0k ohms[/TD][/TR][TR][TD] 163°F[/TD][TD] 1.5k ohms[/TD][/TR][TR][TD] 173°F[/TD][TD] 1.2k ohms[/TD][/TR][TR][TD] 184°F[/TD][TD] 1.0k ohms[/TD][/TR][/TABLE]

I'm glad my video worked for you and got the job done...

Dang... Another one...

Yeah it might be true that the ground connector gets weak and creates a issue... But still it would be better to fix the connector than remove it. Or protect it with di-electric grease from future problems.

Looks good... I'm really waiting to see a picture of you plowing snow or something it would be awesome to add to the random member pics...

Holy cow... I had to look it up myself and those little buggers are torqued to 18 ft/lbs... I would never think to torque them that tight... Maybe 5-6 ft/lbs (60-72 inch/pounds)...