Mopar1973Man

Ummm... My part store is 52 miles away one direction. So a 2 hour trip just to get it... I'm in the middle of nowhere, Idaho...

Ford really out did themselves this time... :banghead:

Actually the HVAC vacuum has a black line that runs all the way to the driver side of the trans hump in the cab there is a connector ther you might check.

Right here Rogan... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/cad/cad.htm

Here head over to the wiring pages... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/wiring/wiring.htm That will help... But the grounds on the ECM and VP44 come back to the battery terminal on the driver side.

100 GPH is good up to 450-500 HP from what I've been told... But when you looking at prices of pumps typically the 100 and 150 are close in price. Now that leads back to the other problem. 100 GPH is a easy install and just hand tools are needed for the install... But jump to the 150 GPH normally your required to install a draw straw in the tank. So the 150 GPH pumps are more work to install but have better performance pressure wise.

What the ??? I never heard of that...

You could the old Dodge Van and truck were pull cable type vent once long ago. But even back in the 70's that I remember all the vehicles with A/C had vacuum even then. It was just the heat only system that had pull cables. Now on the 94-98 bodies the blend door is cable twist cable operated but the rest is vacuum controlled.

Hopefully AH64ID will come along he's the a filter guru of sorts...

Sorry no... But the local NAPA store here in McCall, ID sell it by the foot. (57 Cents a foot) Strange... Its standard 1/8 inch air brake line. Nobody does... All your big racing fans don't like fuel in the cab because of safety factors. But the thing is first off we are not racing the truck. Then the second thing diesel fuel is not gasoline. Diesel fuel needs to be heated to at least 150* and then you can throw a match at it (POOF!) but at normal air temp you can throw match at diesel all day long and won't light. You got more chances of having a engine fire from a leaking injection tube than a leak gauge in the cab. Isolators have had issues all along. Most people that buy them get frustrated and yank them out because of poor pressure reading compaired to a direct plumbed gauge.

Here is a short video of taking one of the many back roads into McCall, Idaho. I was doing this to avoid traffic and road construction. Which it worked out wnoderful but figure since I had the camera might as well let you guys drool over where I live...

As most of you know I've just barely changed out my brake pads on my truck for the first time. I finally replaced my factory Mopar pads at 187K miles. Now a lot of you where shocked at the distance I got from my stock brakes. Well here is a short video of how I come to stops using the exhaust brake mostly. I used sub titles in the video to show what function is occuring. More videos to come! Ok... Here is another video of traveling down Goose Creek grade. Its a 7% grade with tight corners marked for 25 MPH. I travel up and down this grade all the time and never have to use the service brakes on the way down. But here is the video...

Hua? That wasn't very smart of the dealer to only test 1 cylinder... Should of tested all 6 so you see the wear state of each cylinder regardless of which cylinder tossed a code... As for the miss that sound like what I got... I got a random miss on my truck I do know what the cause is (in my case) and its a sticky pintle needle. Now the WVO might be causing the pintle needle to hang up in the nozzle.

True your right but the injector could have issues on why its not firing properly.

Good Ol' Cummins Power Chirp... Totally normal the engine stops rather sudden and the belt slips a bit. Mine has done it from day one...

Something is still wrong with the injectors you might have them re-pop tested and see whats up. Also you might consider doing a compression test to see how you rings/bore condition. CR engine are known for the injector problems and also wiping out the rings when thing fail. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/compression/compression-test.htm Because to make a diesel engine run you need 2 things... 1. Compression to heat the air to ignite the fuel. 2. Fuel to be sprayed int othe cylinder at the proper time.

Here is my AirDog 150 setup... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=30:airdog-150-install&catid=25&Itemid=107

WTF?!?! Pick on Mikey day...

Those were a gift from a friend... http://www.trucknutz.com/

I wonder if you have one just trapped in the rig and looking for a way out...

www.vulcanperformance.com He's got all the fittings for big line kits as well as stock lines... Talk to Eric!

I been using 80w-90 for years no problem... Here is a video a shot a while back and found on the harddrive...

Like my saw... I'm the only one that operates it. So far its over 15 years od and never needed a spark plug yet, air filter is in great shape yet. (Pre-filter helps!) As for bar oil you'll be shocked I use my old engine oil for bar lube... As for fuel mix I always buy the sthl 2 cycle oil and mix per can...Less hassle on the mountain trying to figure out how much oil to fuel ratios... Other than that its a screaming beaver...

It's All good... For me dealer is 320 mile (6 hour of driving, $50 bucks of fuel) round trip...

Or Rockauto.com for $24...