Mopar1973Man

My post above is for climbing 7% gades with 16,080# GCW (~8,000# of trailer).

I went with the cheapest one I could fine... I don't normally use my brakes much. Exhaust brake is my primary stopping force.

Even my truck hauling trailers and firewood 193* to 197*F is normal run range... Climbing grades you might see 206* to 208*F

Build a heat shield. Use a nuts below the plate and nuts above the plate and adjust them so the top nut are just flush...

Results are in... I tried using a rheostat and the lower values are easy to hit but the upper value kept doing werid things so I went to resistors and stuffing different resistors into the plug. Tidbit though... I found out the lower the coolant temp the highier the idle is. At 0*F the idle is like 1,100 RPM on its own...:stuned:Lower mark is 165*F...Just for fun to show 207*F...Upper limit is going to be 220*F

Dripley don't do it... :duh:What I'll do later on when I get some time is using my ScanGauge II and a rheostat I'll find out exactly what it is...

I'm pretty sure the lower line is ~160*F and the upper line is ~220*F

I'm not sure about EPA regs...

I've been helping a buddy do this through the hunting season. Making burger, vacuum packing, etc... Lots of work that for sure...

I've rebuilt a 1972 Dodge Power wagon steering box once long ago. But all I can suggest is be slow and take notes on everything. There is a lot of small part like BB's and such so take your time.

I tend to rather rely on the AirDog filters and the stock filter to catch everything before the injection pump and injectors...

Ok... Try this... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/high-idle-diag/high-idle-diagnostics.htm Here you go... P0113 - Intake Air Temp Sensor Voltage High Intake air (charge) temperature sensor input above the maximum acceptable voltage. Monitor & Set Conditions Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor voltage is monitored when ignition is on and battery voltage is greater than 10.4 volts. DTC may be stored when IAT sensor voltage at ECM is greater than 4.97 volts for greater than 2 seconds. Possible Causes [*] Intermittent Wiring Problem [*] IAT Signal Circuit Shorted To Voltage [*] IAT Sensor Signal Circuit Open [*] Sensor Ground Circuit Open [*] IAT Sensor [*] ECM Testing 1. Turn ignition on with engine off. Using DRBIII® scan tool, read IAT sensor voltage. If IAT sensor voltage is greater than 4.5 volts, go to next step. If IAT sensor voltage is 4.5 volts or less, go to step 6 . 2. Turn ignition off. Disconnect IAT sensor harness connector. IAT sensor is located on driver's side rear corner of cylinder head. Turn ignition on with engine off. Using scan tool, read IAT sensor voltage. If IAT sensor voltage is 6 volts or less, go to next step. If IAT sensor voltage is greater than 6 volts, repair IAT sensor signal circuit for a short to voltage. 3. Turn ignition off. Connect a fused jumper wire between IAT sensor harness connector terminals. Turn ignition on with engine off. Turn ignition on with engine off. Using scan tool, read IAT sensor voltage. If IAT sensor voltage is one volt or greater, go to next step. If IAT sensor voltage is less than one volt, replace IAT sensor. See appropriate REMOVAL, OVERHAUL & INSTALLATION article. 4. Turn ignition off. Disconnect ECM harness connector. ECM is located on driver's side of engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50-pin connector. Ensure IAT sensor harness connector is still disconnected. Using DVOM, measure resistance of Black/Red wire between terminal "B" on IAT sensor connector and terminal No. 7 on ECM connector. If resistance is less than 10 ohms, go to next step. If resistance is 10 ohms or greater, repair open in Black/Red wire between IAT sensor and ECM. 5. Using DVOM, measure resistance between ground and IAT sensor harness connector terminal "A" (Black/Light Blue wire). If resistance is less than 10 ohms, replace and program the ECM. See appropriate REMOVAL, OVERHAUL & INSTALLATION article. If resistance is 10 ohms or greater, repair open in IAT sensor ground circuit. 6. The conditions that set the DTC are not present at this time. With ignition on engine off, monitor DRBIII ® scan tool parameters related to the DTC while wiggling wiring harness. Look for parameter values to change and/or a DTC to set. Review the DRBIII® Freeze Frame information. If possible, try to duplicate the conditions under which the DTC was set. Refer to any Technical Service Bulletins (TSB) that may apply. Visually inspect the related wire harness. Look for any chafed, pierced, pinched or partially broken wires. Visually inspect the related wire harness connectors. Look for broken, bent, pushed out or corroded terminals. Were any of the above conditions present? If yes, repair as necessary. If no, test is complete.

Well there is a lot of members down there in the Texas area... towhungerford - He's over in Deridder, LA (Really good guy).JL Welding - he might know of a good shop.Just a few I remember quickly.

Well sorry about that but I saw you name on the caller ID I figured I'd let you talk to me a for a little bit before I left the house... I'm also running 8/18 setting too and saw about a 3 MPG gain hauling 16,000# GCW weight. I can't speak for the EGT's because of my stock injectors it was much higher that typical that the RV275 hence why I got busy fixing the RV's again... So I'm getting itchy to haul the TT again and see what it will do...

WalMart Super Tech Unverisal Outboard 2 Cycle Oil - ~$11At WalMart...

Actually 96 was the tranition year to OBDII... And yes Mom's 96 does the blink count thing too and its also OBDII... All OBDII have a standard port like what in your Cummins But the OBDI is non-standard and requires all kind of weird adpaters to hook up.

I'm right about 800-900*F on flat ground with 16K# (GCW) running 55-60 MPH in the windy roads of Idaho..

OBDII code reader...

Same here...

Let's say straight piped 3" is doing just fine for me. I can avg 21-22 MPG and haul my travel trailer without any problems with EGT's or anything else. So I've not really seen a really good reason to jump to even 4" yet. If my EGT's are in check nad MPG's are up why mess up a good thing right??

Stop by a WalMart and pick up a stereo adapter kit (wiring plugs) and the dash adapter and just wire it in. Took me a little over 1 hour to solder ans shrink tube the wires on the adapter to the radio and then just plug it in. Not hard at all.

What's your brake fluid look like? Brake fluid should be a light honey color when in good condition but as it ages it darkens. Brake fluid needs to be changed every 30K miles. Brake fluid is also hydroscopic in other works absorbs moisture from the air so as brake fliud ages it gains water but this is a problem because now the boiling point of brake fluid falls. What's your power steering fluid look like? Same here the power steering fluid should also be a honey color too but it will darken as it ages too. It needs to be changed at 30K miles.Just a few basics. But it does sound like there is either air or contaminated fluid in the system.

Here you go... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/dealers/dealers.htm Then... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/forums/67-Vendors-amp-Dealers

Is there a way to sandwich some material together? Aluminum or such using a screw, bolts, or pop rivets?

Wel at least someone found a way to fix it... The thread I read was some trying to repair the switch...