Mopar1973Man

It's the internal parts of the VP44 that restricts the flow without the VP44 turning the flow is extremely limited...

Problem... No flow and it might run the batteries dead trying to cool it... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=YREpPrMxkHU (Fast forward too 1:25 and see the return flow)

Give me a bit to dig it up...

Part placement...

Just right along with what Rogan posted... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/4339-Put-Me-in-Charge...

Here you go... As you can see the light is a direct connection to the ECM. It's the Orange and Black wire running to the dash. You might check for error codes it might give a clue...

We get mostly Garter snakes around here. Black/brown and yellow strips and harmless... But what ever you do is don't pick it up bare handed. Garter snakes has a defense system of create a nasty stink through its skin and it doesn't wash off either. So hands will stink for days...

I always love that really expensive solution... Requires removal of the cam to change the gear case, new lift pump for higher fuel pressure or change the cam so you can use the mechanical lift pump, re-pop all the injectors for fit the P-pump, re-create throttle linkage for the p-pump, order a modified set of lines, the p-pump of course... But the time your done your looking at at least 2 days and right around $3000 roughly. Heck I could always buy a CR engine and spend that kind of money of injectors...

But the funny part is cooling the upper part does no good being there is plastic and air gap between the electronics... The back side is aluminum and dump heat into the fuel.So I understand why BlueChip was thinking run the lift pump after the truck is shut down would actually cool it down but the fact is the VP44 doesn't flow much fuel unless its turning...

Nothing... Those threads are for the factory removal tool... Basically a thread cap to aid pulling the tube out. Most of us use a screwdrive and lightly pry them out..

Yeah LED's do create a problem with the flashers. I'm glad you found a solution.

Ahhh... I've built a different system that allow you to directly donate to the system or basically work it off by helping others... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/donations/donation2.htm

We've got those around here too... Just about average size for here.

Here is what's in the head... There is 2 o ring present but there are not to seal the fuel in. The actual high fuel is upwards of 18K to 22K PSI.The only thing that seal the fuel into the lines in the tappers of the connector tube.

Well I've seen several truck this year lose the lift pump part of the ECM where it randomily trips the lift pump and randomly shuts it down too...

Hey I know you... :thumb1:You more than welcome here... Get a few post behind you and your account will upgrade...

How about just a single bolt pop out of the manifold cover and see the boost go from 30 PSI to 8 PSI.. No it doesn't take much to lose boost pressure.

It might be a good idea to install a prefilter before the walbro to protect it from tank debris.

Might be the evaporator is plugged up with road dust. http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcS0dhysP3h9h849z4j-OkNE_XjZBolTW1r0Jy05EOszER6ptWZ3 Its a weakend project to remove the HVAC case... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=ghDbhJDBvkc

Make sure to use synthetic air (Nitrogen)

I've never heard of anyone needing one yet? What's happening to your current ones?

I tend to agree with CajFlynn because there is lots and lots of VP44 out there with over 200K... Like my VP44 is just a stock SO pump I've got 140K miles on it and still going... If heat was a issue we all would be dropping like flies...Like next time look at the specs of a laptop... A laptop can be stored in some pretty extreme temps like 158*F without a problem. But the actual operation requires a much lower temperature. Which once again with a good fuel pump the heat will be pull away very quickly. How about the ECM that is hang righ on the block next to 190*F coolant jacket? Hmmm... That doesn't even get a good breeze or cooling fuel...

Mike, I don't have an exhaust gas pyrometer in the manifold, but do have a boost gauge in the passenger compartment. Would your question be partially founded on the concern that my EGTs might already be a little high? It's probable that I'd need to remove the turbo and maybe even the exhaust manifold in order to install the thermocouple ... correct? Oh and you possess a '73 Charger? Now that's a body style that I'd worship righ up there with the likes of Christie Brinkley and Pamala Anderson! As for the EGT's it would be a smart idea because the sole fact your change the amount of fuel and of course as you increase fuel the temps do it. As for install you should be able to do it without removal. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/gauges/gauges.htm As for the Charger... Yeap it sitting out in the yard with a 383 CID and 727 Trans...

Yeap there right... Your fine... Enjoy life... :thumb1:Give it a bit of time things will settle down maybe so air bubbles trapped... worse case you got a air leak but the pressure looks good.

I would check the error codes but I'm going to guess its the crank sensor back behind the starter.