Mopar1973Man

Yes... Run a program of your choice... Take a ride... Return to stock and your done...

Your injector are very simular to mine except mine don't have the solenoid to control firing. You can see the extra hole at the top of the injector that is the bled hole that the excess fuel is return to the return rail. So yes the injector is lubed and cooled by the fuel and then return to the tank. As the CR engines they are a bit different on the top half of the injector but basically work the same.

Updates don't need to be done the high idle already exist in the ECM and you must turn it ON...Repair Procedure: 1. Log onto the MDS2 (Mopar Diagnostic System). 2. Connect the MDS2 and DRBIII to the vehicle and switch the ignition key to"ON". NOTE: AUTO CONNECTION WILL OCCUR ONCE THE DRB III, MDS2, AND VEHICLE ESTABLISH COMMUNICATION. THE "CANNOT READ VIN FROM DRB III" MESSAGE (ON THE MDS2) WILL BE REPLACED BY THE VEHICLE VIN. PRESS THE "OK" BUTTON ON THE MDS2 TO REQUEST A L4DS2 SESSION FOR THE VEHICLE VIN INDICATED. PRESS THE "OK"BUTTON WHEN ASKED TO BEGIN SESSION. 3. Push the FLASH tab on the MDS2. 4. Select READ PART NUMBERS FROM VEHICLE and click SHOW UPDATES on the MDS2. NOTE: A MESSAGE MAY APPEAR (AFTER STEP 3 OR 4) THAT INDICATES NO UPDATES ARE AVAILABLE. IF THIS OCCURS, MAKE SURE YOUR DIAGNOSTIC EQUIPMENT IS OPERATING AT THE LATEST SOFTWARE LEVEL AS LISTED EARLIER IN THIS BULLETIN. IF THE LATEST SOFTWARE IS INSTALLED, AND NO UPDATES ARE AVAILABLE ANOTHER VEHICLE CONDITION EXISTS THAT WILL REQUIRE FURTHER INVESTIGATION. 5. Select the new software part number with the light pen and click UPDATE CONTROLLER SOFTWARE. 6. The MDS2 and DRB III will prompt for any operator action needed during the remainder of the reprogramming process. NOTE: DUE TO THE PCM REPROGRAMMING PROCEDURE, A DTC MAY BE SET IN OTHER MODULES (EATX, BCM, MIC, SKIM, ETC.) WITHIN THE VEHICLE, IF SO EQUIPPED. SOME DTC'S MAY CAUSE THE MIL TO ILLUMINATE. ALL DTC'S RELATE TO A LOSS OF COMMUNICATIONS WITH THE MODULE THAT IS BEING REPROGRAMMED. CHECK ALL MODULES, RECORD THE FAULTS, AND ERASE THESE FAULTS PRIOR TO RETURNING THE VEHICLE TO THE CUSTOMER. ERASE ANY FAULTS IN THE PCM ONLY AFTER ALL OTHER MODULES HAVE HAD THEIR FAULTS ERASED. NOTE: ONCE THE VEHICLE HAS BEEN REPROGRAMMED TO THE PROPER SOFTWARE LEVEL, YOU MUST USE THE DRB III TO ENABLE THE 3 CYLINDER IDLE FEATURE. TO DO SO FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS BELOW. 7. Connect the DRB III to the vehicle without connecting to MDS2 and follow the menu structures it appears below. 8. MAIN MENU - 1998 - 2002 DIAGNOSTICS 9. 1998 - 2002 DIAGNOSTICS - ALL (EXCEPT BELOW) 10. SELECT SYSTEM - 1 ENGINE 11. CONTROLLER TYPE - 1 CUMMINS (ECM/ENGINE) 12. SELECT FUNCTION - 1 MISCELLANEOUS (Misc. is on second page) 13. 3.3 CYLINDER IDLE - Follow the instructions The DRB III will indicate whether the feature is enabled or disabled. 14. Push 1 to Enable, 2 to Disable. 15. You are instructed to cycle the ignition to complete the repair. 16. Press Page Back to Exit. NOTE: THE FOLLOWING STEPS ARE REQUIRED BY LAW. 17. Type the necessary information on the "Authorized Software Update Label" p/n 04669020 (Fig. 1). Attach the label to the PCM and cover the label with the clear plastic overlay.

Ahh... Ok a member to voice... What I told mrtowman4u is it sound like something happened with a injector that possibly hung a pintle needle open or damaged the nozzle of the injector for it to just be blowing black smoke.

The drain manifold takes the remaining pressure out of the injector and bleeds it back to the tank in between firing.

Apparently the high idle is still disabled.

I've got 2 Dodge's (1996 & 2002) both have good dashes no cracks... Am I just lucky or what I don't know but I've pull the dash in both truck and the plastics are good and strong and no signs of cracking...

I'd say you guy rather well... No back to the thread topic...

But even with my straight pipe 3" it still very manageable with Edge Comp and the RV275 Injectors which puts me right there with a CR Engine truck...

I would repair any cracked fuel lines either supply or return.

You might head over to http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php and talk to Gary he's a guru of 5th wheels and trailers... Same here... I've got a bumper pull... Well at least I gave a tidbit of information but I'll got sit in the corner with Dripley...

Here is the write up... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=68:hfrr-testing-of-common-diesel-fuel-additives&catid=36&Itemid=115 Personally after trying a few to correct a misfire issues and then after soaking a injector over night in straight solvent and seeing it did nothing to correct the problem. I can tell you that if your looking to clean a fuel system you have to take everything apart and clean it by hand. So as for keeping it clean is all about good CLEAN fuel and good fuel filters (<10 Micron) As for keeping things lubed up I would look at the list (above link) and consider the options. As for cetane booster just remember everytime you increase cetane you reduce the BTU's of the fuel... Just remember standard gasoline is right at 116K Btu's

After all the time of hearing VP44 failure and how bad VP44 pump are... I now know what every VP44 rebuilder is fighting every day. Where VP44 owners are cutting corners on fuel quality and filters and feed it dirty nasty fuel from gawd knows where.Why is that you here the same guy bragging about AMSOil in every hole but feed the fuel tank with worse garbage he can find? Why is this? Then blame the VP44 for being a $hitty pump. :rolleyes:I'll admit there is a few actual short life span pump that failed premature but not as often as the big forums as pushing it...

Ok first of let me vent here a second... (You've been warned!) I got a phone call from a gent this evening upset at his truck because of hard starting and P1689 error code randomily coming. He admits he's got a Raptor fuel pump, Edge Juice and 100 HP injectors. That fine... But the admits he's selling it because he's tired of all the VP44 failures and problem. WHOA! Stop the train... This is where I'm getting really tired of people giving the VP44 a bad name now pay attention. Now I asked him of his source of fuel. His response is he's running red dye fuel from a farm tank because its free. Then ask him of the the fuel filter he's running. His response is a cheap wix/napa filter. So now whining about VP44 failures but he's feeding it dirty watered down fuel and using cheap filters and wonder why the VP44 are not lasting. VP44 injection pump are a great pump and work very very well only if you feed them right... [*]Fuel lubricity of <450 HFRR (He admits in using 2 cycle oil ) [*]Fuel pressure of >14 PSI (Raptor pump and no lower than 16 PSI ) [*]Filters of <10 Microns [*]Little to no water (We all know farm fuels get water from time to time from sitting in the weather ) So what I'm finding out is people are abusing the pumps by cheating and then blame the pump for the poor quality of fuel and filters used. I'm really getting sick and tired of all the VP44 bashing...

What's you lift pump pressure like?

Problem is the OP doesn't have a crank sensor so in his case it would be a cam sensor...

How about a few pictures of it???

Welcome to the family of Cummins owners...

P0215 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2561-P0215-Fuel-Injection-Pump-Control-Circuit P0314 (I need to dig deep for...) P1689 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2628-P1689-No-Communication-Between-ECM-and-Injection-Pump-Module P1690 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2629-P1690-Fuel-Injection-Pump-CKP-Sensor-Does-Not-Agree-With-ECM-CKP-Sensor I would try working with this information and see where it takes you... I seen more than enough people report back "Opps it was a corroded connector or a broken wire".

I've got a Prodigy P2 brake controller really good controller and works really well...

According to RockAuto's page its normal for some up and down movement...

It starts out at 4,500 PSI and can go as high as 20,000 PSI (or more). As for the weeping it most likely a bad sealing washer...

I did my ball joints myself and my stock ones lasted till 187K miles... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/4147-Ball-Joints-Nightmare!

I would raise the stabilizers again just leave the tongue jack down... Because the trailer is trying to lean to one side a bit and the stabilizers are most likely hanging you up... Or hitch up the trailer to the Dodge and drive the front or rear axle up on a block of wood and the other axle should hang free.

Thing that hang me up is all these exhaust mods will more than likely end up removing my exhaust brake to work...