Mopar1973Man

No... It's just a home build trailer...

Ekkk... Well I'm not a tranny type guy... But I'm sure there some saavy guys here that could help you out some how...

Typically the o-ring should be lubed up before installing also the holes should be clean and smooth for a good seal. But no it shouldn't require a run period for a o-ring to setup.

Come on guys help a fellow CTD site out and grow a bit...

All 3 are lifetime warranty... But I tend to now side with FASS more so because of the plumbing and placement. AirDog/Raptor is a wonderful pump but being they converted over to the quick connect plumbing that is all pre-cut and crimped makes it bad for people with special mounting requirement like offrad usage you don't want you pump hanging down on the frame rail to get hit? Like the FASS has its problems too with some of there pumps being overly large and hard to place. But now with there newer line of pump it seem they are marketing to take over the lead placement. Also FASS is still using the old school Push Loc and JIC fitting so you can can custom mount your fuel pump where you want it!

I can provide OEM part numbers... 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 Upper Controls Arms (Left and Right) ------ 52106678AA Lower Left ------------------------------------ 52113679AA Lower Right ---------------------------------- 52113678AA Upper Bushing ------------------------------- 52037673 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 Upper Controls Arms (Left and Right) ------ 52038730 Lower Left ------------------------------------ 52037649 Lower Right ---------------------------------- 52037648 Upper Bushing ------------------------------- 52037673

Bump the starter the pump should run on for about 20-25 seconds. Here is the wiring diagram for ya...

Ok Rburks lets pull up some diagnostic info... DTC P0122: ACCELERATOR POSITION SENSOR SIGNAL VOLTAGE TOO LOW Description Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) voltage is monitored when engine is running. DTC may be stored if low voltage is detected on APPS signal circuit or low voltage is detected between Engine Control Module (ECM) and Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Possible causes are: defective APPS, defective ECM, defective PCM, or defective connectors or wiring. Testing [*] Turn ignition on with engine off. Using scan tool, check for ECM and PCM DTCs. If DTC P0122 is stored in both ECM and PCM, go to next step. If DTC P0122 is not stored in both ECM and PCM, go to step 8 . [*] Turn ignition off. Disconnect APPS sensor connector. APPS is located on bracket, just above fuel injection pump. Turn ignition on with engine off. Using DVOM, measure voltage between cylinder block and terminal No. 5 (Dark Blue/White wire) on APPS connector. If voltage is more than 4.5 volts, go to next step. If voltage is 4.5 volts or less, go to step 7. [*] 3. Turn ignition off. Ensure APPS connector is still disconnected. Measure resistance between terminal No. 4 (Black/Yellow wire) and terminal No. 5 (Dark Blue/White wire) on APPS connector. If resistance is greater than 5 ohms, go to next step. If resistance is 5 ohms or less, repair short between Dark Blue/White and Black/Yellow wires. The Black/Yellow wire is the sensor ground circuit. [*] Ensure APPS connector is still disconnected. Disconnect ECM connector. ECM is located on driver's side of engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50-pin connector. Measure resistance between ground and terminal No. 3 (Light Blue/Black wire) on APPS connector. If resistance is greater than 5 ohms, go to next step. If resistance is 5 ohms or less, repair short to ground in Light Blue/Black wire. [*] Ensure APPS and ECM connectors are still disconnected. Measure resistance between ground and terminal No. 5 (Dark Blue/White wire) on APPS connector. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, go to next step. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, repair short to ground in Dark Blue/White wire. [*] Turn ignition off. Ensure APPS connector is still disconnected. Reconnect ECM connector. Measure resistance between terminal No. 3 (Light Blue/Black wire) and terminal No. 4 (Black/Yellow wire) on APPS connector. If resistance is greater than 5 ohms, replace APPS. If resistance is 5 ohms or less, repair short between Light Blue/Black and Black/Yellow wire. The Black/Yellow wire is the sensor ground circuit. [*] Ensure APPS connector is still disconnected. Disconnect ECM connector. ECM is located on driver's side of engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50-pin connector. Using DVOM, measure resistance in Dark Blue/White wire between terminal No. 5 on APPS connector and terminal No. 31 on ECM connector. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, replace ECM. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, repair Dark Blue/White wire. [*] Turn ignition off. Disconnect PCM connectors. PCM is located at passenger's side rear corner of engine compartment. Measure resistance between cylinder block and terminal No. 23 (Orange/Dark Blue wire) on PCM connector C1. This is the APPS signal wire and goes to terminal No. 28 (Orange/Dark Blue wire) on ECM connector. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, go to next step. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, go to step 10 . [*] Ensure PCM connectors are still disconnected. Disconnect ECM connector. ECM is located on driver's side of engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50-pin connector. Measure resistance between cylinder block and terminal No. 23 (Orange/Dark Blue wire) on PCM connector C1. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, repair short to ground in Orange/Dark Blue wire between ECM and PCM. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, replace ECM. [*] Ensure ECM connector is still disconnected. Reconnect PCM connectors. Measure resistance between terminal No. 28 (Orange/Dark Blue wire) on ECM connector. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, go to next step. If open short to ground exists, replace PCM. [*] 11. Ensure APPS and ECM connectors are still disconnected. Measure resistance in Orange/Dark Blue wire between terminal No. 28 on ECM connector and terminal No. 23 on PCM connector C1. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, go to next step. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, repair open in open in Dark Blue/White wire between ECM and PCM. [*] Ensure PCM connectors are still disconnected. Reconnect ECM connector. Turn ignition on with engine off. Using DVOM, measure voltage between cylinder block and terminal No. 23 (Orange/Dark Blue wire) on PCM connector C1. If voltage is more than .4 volt, replace PCM. If voltage is .4 volts or less, replace ECM.

Welcome to the family... As for your issues with the lift pump you can temp wire it hot and see... But most times the stock pump fails at the hub internally. This plastic hub shouldn't fall out... I've seen where the plastic hub was round and slipped inside the hub and the plastic melted slightly it would bind back up and pump good for awhile till the pump slipped again. The other problem is the pressure regulator internally beats the seat up and the pressure falls off. There is a lot of options in fuel pumps but I would suggest a FASS/AirDog/Raptor...

Scotty II air Filter those are rare to hear about anymore...

Glad you had fun... Too bad you didn't bringg home some spending money...

This might help... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=212

Yo have to relize that the VP44 has to create 4,500 PSI at least to even fire the injector. So if the fuel is just dribbling out of the fittings then most likely the VP44 injection pump is done. 2 Things I try to check... 1. Fuel Presure. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=49:fuel-pressure-specification-for-bosch-vp44-injection-pumps&catid=25&Itemid=107 2. Error codes. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=89:obdii-on-board-diagnostics-diagnostic-error-codes&catid=26&Itemid=107 So if either one fails typically the VP44 is most likely failed... But remember just because you got 19-21 PSI at idle doesn't nmean your fuel system is perfect like one owner found out the hard way watching this video ans seeing 19 PSI and going all the way to 0 PSI on a WOT stand was a shocker... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=NB8o24rw1eU

Ok... Now you know my truck spends a lot of time in the dust and dirt roads of Idaho buy never had this problem... Why? Because any time I was to leave the pavement I would switch to MAX A/C, non A/C mode, or just turn it off while travling dirt roads. Knowing the A/C evaporator job is to sweat... It tend to collect a lot of dust on it so if you head my simple solution you'll never have to do this again...

Ok. From what I understand about the VE pump the weak spot is the front seal going into the gear case. If you were to increase the pump pressure you take the risk of blowing the front seal out. If I remember right about 10-12 PSI was the end of the road...

Good ol' plugged up evaporator problem...

The only way I know how to increase line pressure to the injectors is with the main fuel screw. Now as for setting it up you got to be careful because the more you increase the line pressure the more chances of engine run away. I'm not sure this is what your talking about or not...

Harbor Freight Specials for $9.99 a set... http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-metric-double-end-flare-nut-wrench-set-99993.html http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-sae-double-end-flare-nut-wrench-set-99992.html

Come on guys... We need to help out the other sites too... www.ramforum.com and www.dieseltrucksite.com Come on and show some support for the other sites...

I've never heard of it... You check with the guys over at www.1stgen.org ... Or try with Autometer I'm sure there is something out there...

Make sure to use the right tools getting those off... Just bought these from Harbor Freight...

Welome to the Mopar1973Man Family...

Your fine... But your learning from your experiences now aren't we...

Sorry I was gone for a few days... Ok as for the P1688 error code it basically states the electronics on the VP44 have failed completely. The VP44 is brain dead and no longer listening to the ECM... So VP44 replace is required... My only question is what is your fuel pressure like?

Welcome to the Mopar1973Man Family... Sean... Just ask questions... There is no need to be affraid of asking "Dumb" or "Stupid" questions... There is no such thing as a dumb or stupid question here... We all learn from your questions...