Mopar1973Man

Yes...

Can you control cold to hot with a good amount of change?Is the blend door sticking?Is the 2 hoses to the heater core the same temp? Sign the heater core is plugged up.

After making that video of my fan clutch which happens to be a nearly 10 year old fan clutch now and it still works fine for lockup while towing you can still hear it like a turbo prop plane. But after finding out that fan rolls free like that I call BS on the need for electric fan because virtually the fan is not creating any load as long as its unlocked.I ran for nearly a month in the cool of the winter and seen no change in coolant temps nor did I see a change in MPG's because the fan is not loading the engine in anyway...But if a fan is locked up or dragging yeah I can see it causes more noise and reducing MPG's slightly but as for needing to switch to electric fans no... Not required these fan clutches do there job just fine...

Yes sir...

I usually aim for about 100*F and pack up and haul tail... But yes the EB does cut warm up time considerable.

MN you got to be careful the biofuel (B2) tends to thicken up more so...

ISX has removed hes for over 2 years now... Winter and summer... As for MPG gains there is none if the fan is functioning properly. He's a bit crazy...

So do you smoke it or what?

Its go where its at...:thumbup2:As for the Honda you did good it seem to pick up a deal like that...

By chance did anyone try adjusting the sector adjustment on the steering box?

Ugh...

It was at near stall speed and the injection pump fired yet as the piston was coming up but didn't quite make it and reversed directions and started running backwards. I just thought of something to be very aware of... Once it does start to run backwards shut it down as quickly as possible. Because now that the engine is running backwards that means the oil pump is now blowing bubbles in the oil pan and sucking the oil away from all the bearings, turbo, and piston cooling nozzles...

Find you a quiet stretch of road where you can let the truck roll to a stop on it own without using the brakes. Gearing down with the transmission is OK just don't use your brakes till it stops. Then get out and check the temp of the rotors/drums by carefully touching them check for extreme temperature. Of course be really careful I've seen even mine being smoking hot... Don't go out and burn yourself.

I have the faint tick noise at high R's when dropping gear with the exhaust brake. Still use it in all gears even with R's as high as 3K on the tach and drop the exhaust brake on it. The tick noise with disappear as the R's fall off below 2K.As for usage you can use the exhaust brake in all gears and all R's of the tach... Even the owner manual says that the best hold back power is near 3K R's...

No... I'm keeping my high MPG fan... Thank you... I guess its time to consider replacing the fan if its chewing the end of a 2x4... My buddies 92 Dodge was locked solid what I can tell that happens is over a period of time the clutch leaks out the oil inside and then seizes up on the shaft. He's fan was solid and you could turn the engine with the fan...

I've seen sensors fail within specs. In other words see a IAT sensor report 110*F when the manifold is actually 50*F so in this case there is no error thrown and the only way to detect such problems is using a live data tool like a ScanGauge II and monitor the sensor for normal operation. But if a IAT , ECT, or MAP sensor does fail out of range it will throw a error code and the ...

Fixed...

Yes... I seen that too not in my Dodge but in a military 2 1/2 ton... We had a fire fighter fire it up and had smoke coming out the air clean and ran backwards in all forward gears.I've heard of one other Dodge 12V that managed to fire up backwards...So its possible but rare...So if it did run in reverse double check your air cleaner because it will be damaged by the extreme heat of the exhaust coming back that way...

Holy Chit... :wow:Yeah but we do just fine with our small turbo chargers compared to that monster...

At $4.469 (New Meadows, ID) for diesel now it not even considered... (25 gallons x $4.469 = $111.73) But $3.629 sounds a lot better for the 96 Dodge... But it only gets about 12-13 MPG... Here is the stats block from my Excel sheet...

That's all cool... Since I don't normally run tank to tank... I'm more of a 5 gallons here 15 gallons here... So if I use fuelly I would have lot less information because of the incomplete tanks. So my math is modified for the incomplete tanks... =(A686-A683)/(SUM(C684:C686)) (Odometer of current fill - Odometer of last fill) / (Sum of all gallons in between) So in the above image... 12.197 + 11.742 + 21.912 = 45.851 190,916 - 190,201 = 715 715 / 45.851 = 15.593 MPG's

No... Its all about EPA and CARB not performance or MPG. So like on my chainsaw (Sthl 046) I have the same setup a summer and winter shutter or pre-warm air or cold air. Since standard vehicle are under the EPA coverage they must tune to meet the lowest emissions... They don't care about MPG's... If the did half the garbage on our trucks would be here. (EGR, DPF, short exhaust lobe, etc)

You can check diodes rather simply... Just use a DVM (Digital Volt Meter) and check the battery voltage while the engine is running on DC Volts. Then flip to AC Volts if it rises above 0.5 Volts you got a bad diode bleeding AC waveform.

I've played with the coolant sensor some and found it controls the idle speed and possibly some other fuel parameters.

Worth considering... I'm looking at finding a set of retreads for the 96 Dodge now... This might be a good choice...