Mopar1973Man

Welcome to the family Robbie.. But I'm not exactly clear on what going on here... The indicator on the dash is just a cable driven pointer. GEAR SELECTOR INDICATOR OPERATION The mechanical gear selector indicator gives an indication of the transmission gear that has been selected with the automatic transmission gear selector lever. A red pointer appears in a window below the character in the indicator representing the transmission gear that has been selected. The small, spring-loaded pointer moves on a track through a trolley-like mechanism within the indicator housing. A short length of small diameter stranded cable is attached to one side of the pointer trolley and is encased in a tubular plastic housing that exits the right side of the indicator. The cable is routed through the instrument panel and under the steering column to the left side of the column. The looped end of the cable is hooked over the end of the PRNDL driver lever on the steering column gearshift mechanism, and the cable housing is secured in a molded plastic adjuster and bracket on the column housing. When the gear selector lever is moved the PRNDL driver lever moves, which moves the pointer through the mechanical actuator cable. The cable adjuster and bracket unit mounted on the steering column housing provides a mechanical means of calibrating the gear selector indicator mechanism.

Close enough...

Basically where it went to was that the contact information I was given was a email address for Chevron. Which in turn pointed me back to there spec sheet on the web site. :rolleyes:I guess if we want more information about diesel fuels we are going to need a inside man with one of the companies.

Overhead computers are not accurate... :duh:What was you hand math?Or if you want closer to accurate MPG numbers use a ScanGauge II...

Glad its up and running...

Oh yeah there is no such thing a stupid question here... We are all here to learn from each other... Welcome to the family!

Good to see it fired up and running now you got to get it buttoned up and on the street...

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/market.php

No... Just pop the seal on and tighten up...

Deal... How about 500 points...???

Like the fact the cetane is a huge facotr in that... Dark green - summer fuels Light green - winter fuels This why I keep telling people don't use a anti-gel or cetane boost unless you really need too. Because in both cases all it does is reduced the power output (BTU's) and reduce MPG's

Here is ashed oil like engine oil and ATF... Here is ashless...

Much nicer than mine is... I've got to dig mine out of the RV... I'll get a pic of it in the morning...

The best I can say is that you'll know more when you pull the turbo off and clean the compressor housing because you'll see the full compressor wheel and the the inside of the housing and will be able to verify if its been rubbing or taken any damage.

Even at 1,200*F EGT's you got to be careful when you hauling weigh and/or trailer the coolant temps will rise very rapidily on you going up grade 6-7% so like THRacing mention I would highly suggest the gauges before towing and keep an eye all your gauges. Like myself I use 1,200*F limit on EGT's and drop a gear if the EGT's rising yet. So when you drop a gear and kick it back up to 2K on the tach it will be more torque but less heat produced so both coolant and EGT's should fall.

Typically most just buy Walmart Supertech Outboard 2 Cycle Oil. But I've used a lot of different 2 cycle oils snowmobile, outboard, chainsaw, etc... PenzOil, Supertech, Quaker State, Yamalube, Sthl, Valvoline, Phillips 66, etc... The only thing I won't suggest using is synthetics... The PPD (Pour point depressant) is used in petroluem products but since synthetic oils don't have parafin wax it doesn't have a PPD added so it will not help/aid in gelling... Cold country up here seeing 0*F in the morning is enough to make you consider your fuel and additives closely.

I remember long ago (10 year ago) when I went to purchase my beast. They rolled the truck into the show room floor and showed it off to me. The interior, exterior, dealer options, etc. I never forget how freaked out I was about driving it home. Beautiful truck and I bought my first truck. I was a proud owner of a Dodge Cummins. Well I got to admit now she is a bit rough around the edges and got little dents, dings and scratches etc. I'm more comfortable with my "Used" truck than a new truck. I'm not in the mode of going the long haul...Now I will admit that is a beautiful truck and well traking careful in storage but still even with next to zero miles it not worth dealer price any longer. The other problem is all the rubber on the engine is degrading as it sits so it will start leaking oils and lubes shortly. Just a fact of nature.

So do I... Little single action 6 shooter with .22 magnum or .22 long..

Hmmm. Now my shot at you ISX... Ok so how about CajFlynn idling for several hours sleeping in the cab with the heater going no exhaust brake?But I got to disagree with the wear factor of high idle function and exhaust brake. The coolant temperature is rising at a fairly rapid pace so within about 3-5 minutes its already like 100-120*F in coolant temp so the oil temperature has to be following close behind as well so the wear factor can't be worse with exhaust brake and high idle. The fact the metal are warming up very fast and the tight tolerances are loosening up rapidily compared to just idling at 250*F at 0*F outside morning... So without the high idle and exhaust brake you could virtually hang at below 100*F of coolant temp for more than 20-30 minutes.But as for MPG and efficency its best to start and get rolling. Just using high idle function and exhaust brake can flow some serious fuel over a short period of time I've measured upwards of 6-10 GPH just using the high idle function with exhaust brake so this fuel is now lost and there is no miles to account for it. So to agree with ISX from the MPG efficency stand point its best to start, idle for about 30-60 seconds and get rolling. But as for the wear stand point I'm going to have to disagree... at least from my point of view... (Discussion turn over ot the next person that post)

Here you go... PDC (Power Distribution Center) notice my accessories are tied to the postive battery lead. Take notice there is isn't any wires hanging off my terminals...

Here you go... Mopar1973Man's Command post that keeps the Mopar1973Man.com forum going...AMD AM2 5200, 4 GB DDR2 Ram, 1.5 TB and 250 GB hard drives (Mopar1973Man Power House)Mopar Mom's workstation her computer down on the floor also another AMD AM2 5200, 4 GB DDR2 Ram, 500 GB hard driveThis is where all the work gets done... :rolleyes:Ok back to the DVD RW problem...This is the best picture I could manage to get but if you look at the data surface there is like a darker segment to it through the middle of the ring like the lazer got tired and no longer really burned the disk properly. Well I've tried a few different disks and all turned out the same way. I even open the drive up check the hub and lazer rack and it was all good little dust in there. But clean it all up and tired again... Still a bad burn...

Here you go... I'm going to see about buying one or building one... :thumbup2:Nice find hex0rz

That's where the good ol Ppumped 12V cummins will swallow nearly anything for fuels... Jet fuel, kerosene, waste engine oil, etc... What wrong with a bit of plastic diesel... :rolleyes:Sorry I just have a hard time with it still... But with more study and getting popular it will come along and be accepted... Most likely not by EPA though...

Salt is a bad thing for any metals... :nono:At this point your running me thin on information so now at this point I'm going to have to step back in the crowd and take a seat and learn with you. So please post your finding...

Like in my post I'm a long bed quad cab... Rear axle rated for 6084# GAWR with overload springs. My empty weight is roughly 2,800-2,900# on the rear axle which its giving me 3184# of weight capacity for the rear axle roughly.