Mopar1973Man

:lmao:I've got a full case of budweiser downstairs in the basement, I don't have any christmas cookies, but I do own a few guns that need to be fired more than cleaned...

I'll be honest... It just a scrap of board and a few hole punched into it. What's truely funny is the finish work was already done I just got lucky and didn't scratch it all up with the jigsaw.

:lol:But Dripley you said you going to sit with the big folks right??? :tongue:MERRY CHRISTMAS all...

About 90% of all our camping is boondocking or dry camping. Then when at home its typical parked near power but not always. Like this winter I set it up in the yard so it was near power. But now come summer time I'll stuff it back out in the backyard again under the maple tree where its shady and less UV rays for the rubber roof. But I don't want to have to keep charging the batteries all the time when its not used...Not to mentions it give me a quick disconnect if something was to happen in the 12V side now... Yes I know everything is fuse including the master power line from the battery. But its still nice to be able to shut it down in a hurry too... CLICK!

No but it allows me to cut the 12VDC off completely and know my batteries will stay charged up while the trailer is parked some where. Like last summer I tucked the trailer in the backyard under the large maple tree. But I would have to pull a genrator out about once a week to charge the batteries up because of all the little loads like the propane detector, clock on the radio, etc. So now I can shut it completely down!

I'm thankful I live in a area where there is no cell phone coverage... We don't have these problems out here...

Well Gang... I finally got my feet wet and modified my Jayco Eagle my way. I added a battery cutoff switch and a true battery volt meter. It all tucked away in the power cabinet so its out of site out of mind. Bjut the reason for putting the cut off switch in the cabinet was I could take my trailer out to a camp site in the wood and park it and lock it up. I can shut down the power and know when I return that no one has tampered with the power because its locked up inside. Like I've see lot of idea where the battery cutoff is on the battery box but I was looking for a secure way. Also in the design of all this I set it up so if I'm hooked to 120VAC I can still keep the batteries charged but shut down all the 12VDC loads and keep the trickle draws locked out. So in the power cabinet was the best place. Now I can check the status of my batteries a bit closer to real value than the simple 4 LED's on the panel in the kitchen. My handy work...

You don't want to see what I drive over when I'm out working... I drive about 20 miles on pavement. Then leave the pavement and drive another 15-20 miles of single lane dirt roads. Then leave the dirt road and drive maybe another 1/4 mile off in the woods, rolling over small logs, rocks, etc... It got to be guarded well because where I work there is no cell service and walking out might be deadly.

No I got lucky and got a short bed bracket for my AirDog. Tucked right behind the transfer case and guarded by the skid plate. Might consider relocation if you can... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=30:how-to-install-a-airdog-150-fuel-system&catid=25&Itemid=107 Yes in Idaho too they use lots and lots of gravel, salt, and Mag-Cloride...

Even AirDog uses a 100 micron mesh pre-filter... But the 2 micron goes on the pressure side.

I see some people listen... :thumbup2:Now as the lift pump it should be power by the ECM because the crank signal to the pump is modulated at 50% duty cycle to lower fuel pressure to the VP44 during cranking to prevent hard starting issues cause by full fuel pressure. Hence why crank pressure minimum is 7 PSI and running minimum is 10 PSI...

Ok from what little I know... The early trucks had both the crank and cam yes... But the cam sensor didn't have a tone wheel just a single notch and the crank sensor had a full tone wheel on the crank. Then later the crank sensor was ditched and the full tone wheel was placed on the cam gear.I learned this tidbit from guys converting from early to later (or visa-versa) But the engine work work but keep throwing P0341 error codes because the cam tone wheel is different.

At least you took as a joke as it was intended... :thumbup2:Your like myself I'll push the limits now and then but being careful...

I hate to say it... But I'm a stickler for telling people to fix the problem quit using band-aids... Most likely in your case the pump motor seized and the amperage went through the roof melting the wiring even with the circuit breaker because it would cycle in and out as the breaker cooled...Hopefully no harm came to the VP44...

Your right it won't... Your also right... We do have VP44's... There is only 2 causes for a dead pedal... [*]VP44 failure [*]APPS sensor failure How to tell which one it is... Just check for error codes then check your fuel pressure... If the error codes are for the VP44 and you fuel pressure is below specs (<10 PSI) at anytime under road load then it going to be VP44. If you get a P0121, P0122 or P0123 then its most likely the APPS sensor. Then you can get a Timbo's APPS and replace the stock sensor with his for $160 bucks which is much cheaper than stock $450 bucks roughly...

I'm hoping Wild & Free shows up soon but I'm going to bet there is a band adjustment or something that is calling for torque converter lock up too early. I was hoping for a error code to point me in a direction. But being the trans appear to be shifting early that could very well cause it to chug. Next time it occurs take note of the RPM's and speed.

jonathan1950 after looking up (google maps) where you live I'd won't be to worried about your loads out there in the middle of nowhere Idaho. Dang Flatlander...

Like Dripley I really didn't see a huge change but I did notice a change in the exhaust brake sounds and high RPM's... (0.008 and 0.018) Same MPG numbers but it does spool the turbo a bit quicker. (Seat-o-pants dyno)...

True he could setup a HTML page to navigate it on my server since they are already here. But provider doesn't allow directory viewing for security reasons... http://www.mopar1973man.com/isx97 So now if here place a index.htm file in his directory and links to all the pics then every could use them.

Valid point... With you in the hotshot field and hauling a trailer most of the time I can see you doing a homebrew setup more so than Airdog, etc...

Error Codes?

Caught you over at the other site but I post it here too...$68.45 - 4897669AB - Dodge Dealer Only Part

Like looking at that inflation table is the max inflation at max load... So lets say like my rear axle... With a load range E's (3042# @ 80 PSI) and max axle weight (6084#)...6084 / 2 = 3042# pounds per tire.3042 / 3042 = 1.00 Or a 100% of the tire rated load.1.00 x 80 = 80 PSI which is the inflation pressure.But we know you truck rear axle weight isn't exactly at 100% GAWR... So since you not at max load you at a percentage of load... So like my rear load weight with the trailer hitched up is 4,280...So since rear axle has half the weight on each tire you divide by 2...4,280 / 2 = 2,140 pounds of weight on each tire. Which each tire is rated for 3,042 pounds as the tire guide shows. So now divide 2,140 pound actual weight over 3,042 tire max capacity weight.2,140 / 3,042 = 0.70 So the tire is at 70% of its load capacity. So would it logical be right to inflate the tires to about 70% of the air pressure?So if the tire max air pressure is 80 PSI that means multiplying 80 times .70 would net you the pressure?0.70 x 80 = 56 PSI... Me... Then I tend to just round up to the next full tens of 60 PSI so that would be my inflation pressure for my rear axle. Remember never to exceed the tire rated pressure!Now using one from the table...2765# / 3042# = 0.90 x 80 PSI = 72 PSI (Table rates it for 70 PSI at that weight) so I'm not too far off! :tongue:1870# / 3042# = 0.61 x 80 PSI = 49 PSI (Table rates it for 40 PSI at the weight) I'm looking better with my number...

Same here I'm in the middle of nowhere Idaho which means even if Carter would to fail that mean I'm walking to safety as well as having to order a pump in that might take a few day to show up. With the lifetime warranty I feel that the product was design much better and failure is less likely of a product that a company is willing to stand behind. Like mine has been in service 5-6 years now with very little to do to the pump. Occasionally I would have to clean up the regulator check ball that it. But each his own...

5% by volume... So for a 35 gallon tank of diesel you can add 1.5 Gallons. I don't suggest the WEO oil any longer because of the ash levels in engine oil is much higher today that previous years...