Mopar1973Man

Ok first of let me vent here a second... (You've been warned!) I got a phone call from a gent this evening upset at his truck because of hard starting and P1689 error code randomily coming. He admits he's got a Raptor fuel pump, Edge Juice and 100 HP injectors. That fine... But the admits he's selling it because he's tired of all the VP44 failures and problem. WHOA! Stop the train... This is where I'm getting really tired of people giving the VP44 a bad name now pay attention. Now I asked him of his source of fuel. His response is he's running red dye fuel from a farm tank because its free. Then ask him of the the fuel filter he's running. His response is a cheap wix/napa filter. So now whining about VP44 failures but he's feeding it dirty watered down fuel and using cheap filters and wonder why the VP44 are not lasting. VP44 injection pump are a great pump and work very very well only if you feed them right... [*]Fuel lubricity of <450 HFRR (He admits in using 2 cycle oil ) [*]Fuel pressure of >14 PSI (Raptor pump and no lower than 16 PSI ) [*]Filters of <10 Microns [*]Little to no water (We all know farm fuels get water from time to time from sitting in the weather ) So what I'm finding out is people are abusing the pumps by cheating and then blame the pump for the poor quality of fuel and filters used. I'm really getting sick and tired of all the VP44 bashing...

What's you lift pump pressure like?

Problem is the OP doesn't have a crank sensor so in his case it would be a cam sensor...

How about a few pictures of it???

Welcome to the family of Cummins owners...

P0215 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2561-P0215-Fuel-Injection-Pump-Control-Circuit P0314 (I need to dig deep for...) P1689 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2628-P1689-No-Communication-Between-ECM-and-Injection-Pump-Module P1690 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2629-P1690-Fuel-Injection-Pump-CKP-Sensor-Does-Not-Agree-With-ECM-CKP-Sensor I would try working with this information and see where it takes you... I seen more than enough people report back "Opps it was a corroded connector or a broken wire".

I've got a Prodigy P2 brake controller really good controller and works really well...

According to RockAuto's page its normal for some up and down movement...

It starts out at 4,500 PSI and can go as high as 20,000 PSI (or more). As for the weeping it most likely a bad sealing washer...

I did my ball joints myself and my stock ones lasted till 187K miles... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/4147-Ball-Joints-Nightmare!

I would raise the stabilizers again just leave the tongue jack down... Because the trailer is trying to lean to one side a bit and the stabilizers are most likely hanging you up... Or hitch up the trailer to the Dodge and drive the front or rear axle up on a block of wood and the other axle should hang free.

Thing that hang me up is all these exhaust mods will more than likely end up removing my exhaust brake to work...

Probe the socket of the switch with a test light and check and see if there is power on one side. Then using a piece of wire and bridge across bothe pins and see if they light up with the key on. This will test to see if the light are good and if there is indeed power ther at the switch..

If there is no error codes for cam sensor I wouldn't worry much...Does the tach on the dash work?Does the volt meter rise when the truck is running?Most likely working then if yes but your ScanTool isn't capable of seeing Cummins cam sensor...

Done...

Right from the Dodge Factory service Manual... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=88:bosch-vp44-injection-pump-overflow-valve&catid=25&Itemid=107 And...

Russ is always looking for useful hands to help him out...

Funny how people claim that disconnecting the batteries t oreset the computers. I think what is occuring is the terminals are oxidizing/corroding and the terminal are getting weaker and weaker and them the voltage drop is slight but enough to mess thw the computers. Then you pull the cable ans place them back on the problems gone... Hence the theory of resetting computers fixed it... :rolleyes:As you see there is truely no reset (actually a APPS calibration) you just corrected a poor connection...

Did you try disabling all the limits and alarms on the Ardenaline? Really common for some to set a limit or a alarm too low and now the box has a hard time producing good power.RBurks has a good point to double check the valve lash... (small chance but every little bit helps!)How about errror codes? Is there something else that might be wrong keeping the truck from performing good?

Lighting to me is very important... Hence why I just replace 4 bulbs on 2 trucks... Out here in Idaho there is no street lights and always a hidden stump, rock, hole, etc to back a truck into that might cause serious damage...

Nice to know the HP/TQ doesn't change on 3" to 4" pipe... Hmmm... Doesn't give me to much reason to upgrade being the 3" I got now is very controllable for EGT's...

The the winter cold coming on mine is slipping down again. Idle @ 18 and WOT @ 16... I know its the stupid check ball working its way into the spring again...

Yes... The 2 pin switch on the top of the trans shift tower is the reverse switch. I runs back to the tail lights supplying power for all backup lighting and other options... If I remember right Black/Violet wire is the one your chasing...

I tennd to agree with Russ... Like in my days of the ol' Dodge Jamboree I had. I blown several roof vents. But what made matter worse is the base was plastic to so eventually the whole unit should be replaced. Like my current Jayco has steel baes and plastic lids. So I wouls simply measure one of the other lids and order one to match... Or contact the manufacture of the RV and get the specs of the vents.

You might consider updating to the other spring. (17 PSI)