Mopar1973Man

Yeah! :hyper:My parts came today finally... I got started on ripping down the truck and getting the manifold yanked off. Got all the new gaskets to seal it up right this time. Also I should of have the camera went me but didn't, but the plenum gasket was blown out of the plate and for sure leaking. I desided to take a moment and come in and warm up a bit and get a cup of coffee. So I'm reporting in on what I'm up to... I'll grab the camera and haul it out with me... :duh:More to come...

How we doing other wise?

Yes and No... Yes there is a OBDII port but no you'll not capable of using the ScanGauge II for the other feature like MPG's and trip data. Because there is no connection to the p-pump for fuel data. But being 95 I'm not sure if is truely a OBDII port or a OBDI port since 96 was the starting year for OBDII..

Must be OK if no codes tossed and rge gauge are working...

All right here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/voltage-drop/voltage-drop.htm

You know the old saying... "If its too loud you must be too old..." Well I'm in the same boat. I love the function of the BHAF for filtering and the long life of the media but I'm getting tired of the whistling so I jamed back in the whistle ring. That helps a bunch... But still under heavy loads you can still hear the turbo spool but not too bad...

Get well soon... As for where you live you might re-consider a new place because where your at isn't very safe...

If you got a away to monitor IAT temps then you want to technically get the IAT close to what it like during you best MPG weather.As for Mom's 96 Dodge I'm playing with its got a CAI on it from the factory but noticed on 25*F morning it ran so much better after just yanking of the cold air duct and allowing the engine to breathe the warmed air under the hood. Fuel mileage rose even on a gasser engine... Oh... As for IAT temps at 25*F outside the IAT showed 85*F with CAI and with CAI it jumped to 116*F and MPG rose like I said...

P0381 - Wait To Start Lamp Inoperative Problem detected in wait-to-start bulb circuit. Monitor & Set Conditions WAIT-TO-START light is monitored when ignition is on. DTC may be stored when WAIT-TO-START light does not come on within 2 seconds after ignition is turned on. Possible Causes [*] WAIT-TO-START Light Stays On All The Time [*] WAIT-TO-START Light Driver Circuit Shorted To Ground [*] WAIT-TO-START Light Circuit Open From ECM To Cluster [*] Fused Ignition Switch Output Circuit Open [*] WAIT-TO-START Light Bulb [*] ECM Driver Circuit Open [*] Wiring/Connector Problem [*] ECM Testing 1. Ensure ignition is off. While monitoring WAIT-TO-START light operation, turn ignition on with engine off. WAIT-TO-START light is located on instrument cluster, directly below the speedometer and CHECK GAGES light. If WAIT TO START light illuminates, go to next step. If WAIT TO START light does not illuminate, go to step 4 . 2. Turn ignition off. While monitoring WAIT-TO- START light operation, turn ignition on with engine off. If WAIT-TO-START light stays on all the time, go to next step. If WAIT-TO- START light illuminates and then goes off, WAIT-TO-START light is operating properly. Test is complete. 3. Turn ignition off. Disconnect ECM harness connector. ECM is located on driver's side of engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50-pin connector. Check for poor connection/terminal contact at ECM harness connector. Repair as necessary. While monitoring WAIT-TO-START light operation, turn ignition on with engine off. If WAIT-TO-START light illuminates, repair short to ground in Orange/Black wire between ECM and WAIT-TO-START light. If WAIT-TO- START light does not illuminate, replace and program ECM. See appropriate REMOVAL, OVERHAUL & INSTALLATION article. 4. Turn ignition off. Disconnect ECM harness connector. ECM is located on driver's side of engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50-pin connector. Check for poor connection/terminal contact at ECM harness connector. Repair as necessary. Connect a jumper wire between ground and terminal No. 37 (Orange/Black wire) on ECM harness connector. Turn ignition on with engine off and note operation of WAIT-TO-START light. If WAIT-TO-START light illuminates, go to next step. If WAIT-TO-START light does not illuminate, repair open in Orange/Black wire between ECM and WAIT-TO-START light. 5. Turn ignition off. Ensure ECM harness connector is still disconnected. Remove instrument cluster. See appropriate ANALOG INSTRUMENT PANELS article in ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT. Note location of connectors C1 and C2 on instrument cluster. Turn ignition on with engine off. Connect a test light between ground and terminal No. 2 (Dark Blue/White wire) on connector C1 for instrument cluster. If test light illuminates brightly, go to next step. If test light does not illuminate brightly, repair open in fused ignition switch circuit to WAIT-TO-START light. 6. Turn ignition off. Inspect WAIT-TO-START light bulb. If light bulb is okay, go to next step. If light bulb is defective, replace light bulb. 7. Ensure ignition is off and ECM harness connector is still disconnected. Reinstall connectors on instrument cluster. Turn ignition on with engine off. Using DVOM, measure voltage at terminal No. 37 (Orange/Black wire) on ECM harness connector. If voltage is 10 volts or less, go to next step. If voltage is greater than 10 volts, replace and program ECM. See appropriate REMOVAL, OVERHAUL & INSTALLATION article. 8. Check for intermittent problem in wiring for WAIT-TO-START light between ECM, instrument cluster, fuse No. 17 and ignition switch. Repair as necessary.

Sound like that trans is at it limit... All auto's are weak from the get go. The biggest thing is to hook up a trans temp gauge and monitor temps. As for the slippage most have to update the torque converter and the valve body to keep them going so if it slipping you might have it look at again by another shop.

Sounds like a funky connector. Ok so I would pull it one more time look closely at both side and add a bit of di-0electric grease to the connectors and try again. But make sure all the pins are in good condition...

I've got a problem with this... Even a used block is going for about $1,500 bucks then you have to pay a mechanic to repmove and rebuild you engine into the new block. What there is like 16 hours of labor to do this and re-install the new block. $500 bucks is not even enough to even buy a block let alone repair it. If I had a 53 block I would got to the court and demand that the y pay for everything block, labor, misc parts, etc!

Trans fluid color and smell?How about the last time you changed fluid and adjusted the bands?

I can explain it a bit better... But the 03 and up Cummins engine use a pilot injection pulse to preload the cylinder with fuel before the main event. This pilot injection is what reduces the audible knock of the engine. But like some are finding out if you use a EFI Live tuner and disable the pilot injection pulse it knocks just like the old 2nd Gens but the MPG's will rise up even more. Seem like the older and less BS that was on the engine the better the MPG's were...

I know exactly what you mean I got 3 hours from a major city (Boise, ID)... So like myself I would consider pulling the head back off and having the head taking down to a machine shop in Boise, ID and have it surfaced and check for true flat. Then go back through with a fresh gasket...

Yeah this is ringing all over the web right now...

Hmmm...

Actually tap wire and fuel pressure have nothing in common really... You should stay between 10-20 PSI as much as possible but I still suggest 14-20 PSI for longevity reasons. Like Myself I'm tapped as well and run the box wide open for the timing purpose more than fueling purpose which I use my foot to control fuel... Glad to see you got it running...

Moved for ya... As for the block its a 53 block... They are known to crack but... http://www.stamey.info/Truck/Cummins53BlockFAQ.htm As for worrying about it I wouldn't worry too hard on it being CajFlynn here has 53 Block as well that crossed over 1.1 million miles and still going!

Starting issues... I would look at battery cables and terimnal closely and do a voltage drop test first thing. If the ground cables are poor it could create all kinds of weird gremlins like the misfiring, odd lag of starting, etc.. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/voltage-drop/voltage-drop.htm

Hopefully someone chimes in but I think its just o-rings on the tee that you got to replace...

Well I've seen snow already here this morning... Then spitting snow this afternoon as we (friend and I) were plowing my driveway.

Mine is the same but... I added a second switch on the stick so as I travel down grade I use the toggle switch instead of the throttle because then the toggle switch is a instant response instead of 2 second delay with the throttle. Since the throttle is no touched and the timer is expired the toggle switch always give instant reaction!

Don't use teflon tape or thread sealants on electric sensor this will foul the ground path and cause issue for the sensor operation. This might be the cause of the wild gauge swings. Another mechanic confessed to me that he did the same thing on a fuel pressure gauge install and had issues with the gauge behaving poorly or showing zero a lot of times. After replace the gauge and sender it did it again... After we figured out the teflon tape was creating a insulation barrier for the ground path it couldn't ground properly... So low and behold cleaned the threads and tighten the sensor in without sealants and the gauge worked perfect...