Mopar1973Man

My last haul of the season I was pulling 14.1 MPG hand calculated for the trip with 16,080# GCW. (~7,800# Trailer)Speed is still a huge factor in trailer hauling wind drag is still wind drag and RV is a huge box rolling down the highway cutting through the wind. I normally tow at 55-60 MPH. I know that Idaho laws states that no trailer maybe towed any faster than 65 MPH (PERIOD!). This is utility trailer, RV, or semi-trailer... Also Idaho laws states that there is no minimum speed limit so I may travel as slow as I personal want or what is safe for weather / road conditions. Also most all trailer tires (ST's) are rated for only 65 MPH beyond this your asking for a blow out! So what is it going to hurt cutting 10 MPH off my speed and relaxing while I haul my RV to it next destination? Less chances of a tire blow out. Better MPG's. Lower EGT's. Less stress on the driveline...

Ok here is the wiring map for ya... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/images/2ndgen24v/wiring/1999-Dodge-Wiring-Pg3.jpg Then here is the P0113 diagnostic... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=147:p0113-intake-air-temperature-sensor-voltage-too-high&catid=59&Itemid=107 Then the High Idle diagnostic. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=53:high-idle-mod-diagnostic&catid=26&Itemid=107 I think I got you covered...

Something is wrong...If the IAT is going to -40*F then the IAT lead is open and should be tossing a IAT high volt code.

I've talked to a lot of you about how short my daylight hours are because of the deep canyon I live in and how late it is for the sun to come up over the mountain and then how quickly its sets over the west side mountain... Well here is a place that only sees 3 hours of daylight rioughly.

Interesting conversation between ISX and Katoom... Might have you two compile that conversation into a write up...

Time to replace it with a ScanGauge II...

Got the thread moved for better exposure...

Mr. Mindless is right is a really short frame stub in the front with a weird angle of the dangle...

Check the vacuum pump first... Then if that's fine then check the compression to see if you possibly have ring and piston damage... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=144:compression-testing&catid=34&Itemid=115

Yeah it fine with me too even up here with temps around 0*F and you hit freezing fog it nice to keep the mirror clean. Also nice they shut off after a period of time. Truthfully I rarely use mine but its super nice for those cold arse mornings when the mirrors are all frosted...

Plugged up heater core? Vacuum problems? Some vehicles operated the heater valve (coolant control) with vacuum so check to be sure the vacuum line are good.

I woke up to a white yard we got a touch of snow (dusting) but it only 15*F above zero and the house is cold as hell as I type this... Brrr... Drinking coffee and got both the fireplace lit and the wood stove... Hmmm... What's New Meadows, ID like right now?!?! Brrrr... Merry Christmas all...

Touche' Good one Dripley... I didn't catch that he's right the Fass DDRP might be a bit marginal for that setup... Fuel pressure gauge is first priority...

Consider your size a bit closer... 100HP injectors are going to be a bit tougher to get MPG's from than the RV275 or +50HP injectors... But yes DAP is a get man to deal with for parts!

No there is no correlation between a bad lift pump and a map failure... You run through the diagnostic... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=167:p0237-map-sensor-voltage-too-low&catid=59&Itemid=107

Either barrow a Smarty programmer or take a trip to the dealer is your 2 choices...

Prowelder is producing the high idle kit for the site so give him a shout and tlak ot him I'm sure he'll build you one!

That's the problem its missing in the 96... Every time I fire it up I'm stomping the floor looking for a clutch pedal only to find the brake. Then constantly grabing for the mystery stick that's not there. Then letting off the throttle looking for exhaust brake and it not there... Then I'm too chicken to pass anyone with the 96 it just doesn't have the balls...

Hmmm...Toyz...My newest... 2000 Jayco Eagle 296 FBS My Favorite Rig... 08 Honda Rancher 420...83 Honda Goldwing51 Willys Jeep (Chevy 350 under the hood)

Well study up the video and get busy...

Here in Idaho on road diesel and off road diesel come from the same tap... Ones got dye and the other doesn't... But like some make people that are trying to cheat I got a buddy in New Meadows, ID (Relentless70) that has be trying to use heating oil in his truck and he's filtering it down through 2 filter before pouring in the tank but now the engine fuel filter is still plugging up premature on him... :doh:Another guy I know in LA state he's been using off road diesel now for years but already been through a VP44, few lift pumps, and many fuel filters. Everytime he using the off road fuel it just plugs up his airdog filters but once again he's using a goldenrod filter on the drag tank so it filter before putting into the fuel tank but still the issue...

No... That's why I did the handy work on the 1996 Dodge 1500 and now use that for my daily driver. Then I'm only paying 3.389 a gallon for gasoline. I save the diesel for the big and heavy hauling like the RV or firewooding. The little 96 Dodge only has 146K on the clock so time to use it... Can't complain...

D'Oh!

Ok lets hear your answer...

I could but typically diesel has always been right close to the price of gasoline or just below it at times. This is the biggest jump I've seen period... :wow:Even back in 2007 when diesel here was $4.999 gasoline was right there too at 4.899... But now for diesel to go to a spread of +80 or +90 cents above gasoline that plum crazy... Not to mention I've not seen below $4.00 a gallon since Novemeber 2010...