Mopar1973Man

Yeah it might be true that the ground connector gets weak and creates a issue... But still it would be better to fix the connector than remove it. Or protect it with di-electric grease from future problems.

Looks good... I'm really waiting to see a picture of you plowing snow or something it would be awesome to add to the random member pics...

Holy cow... I had to look it up myself and those little buggers are torqued to 18 ft/lbs... I would never think to torque them that tight... Maybe 5-6 ft/lbs (60-72 inch/pounds)...

Little confused here... 01 24V and a 12V of what year??? :banghead:As for the 24V I would dump a hot 190*F thermostat in it and change the coolant at the same time. 24V like the engine to be nice and hot. Even in the dead of winter I still see 195-197*F with -25*F weather using winter fronts.Any error codes?

No problem... I put a twist on this and hooked up right on the studs there in the PDC for the battery lead. This way I did have wires going all the way to the alternator like Gassenomore and not hooked directly to the battery like you I6Freak but the say clean on corrosion free like Gassernomore.

Wow another one in Idaho... Just awesome... Now knowing that I got to hook up with a few of you...

Just bench test your current alternator before buying a new one... Save some money if you can!

Here you go guys and gals... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/forums/121-Canada Forum for the Canucks...

Well you wish is my command... I'll add a canada forum for ya... Yeah I do have a few but didn't think about it...

You can but leave the switch off during cranking. If the switch is on during cranking the pressure will be too high and the truck will fail to start. Hence why the cranking voltage is modulated to 50% duty cycle to reduce lift pump ressure. My grid heater as in place but disabled electronically. No code... As for the grid heater they maybe active because the manifold air is colder yet. Remember the cast iron block hold cold for a very long time. As for cold start with my grid heater disabled I can start down to 30-32*F easy without missing a beat... But the coldest I can start from is +25*F and then it starts to miss and shake getting going. At that point I trigger the grid heater with my high idle switch before I turn the key on...

:wow:Hang on a second...Before chopping up any wiring just remember these truck ran 9-10 years without wiring mods and did just fine. So now all of a sudden require a bunch of hacking and cutting, adding grounds, etc... I don't thinks so.I still say to look for the issue at hand and not cover it up with a bunch of band-aids like adding grounds, filters, and tin foil...

Nice setup... I remember the days of having the red light on the roof of my truck and running for the fire dept... Now I got a LED mini bar hanging from my rear view mirror and work for the local sheriffs dept (Search and Rescue)

Bad diode... Here is a quick video of that test... http-~~-//youtu.be/UveGtGuswBw

That means there is another coolant leak in the HVAC box again. Look down at the base of the HVAC case and check and see if the shaft is moving properly. You might have to take a jump over to Heater Treater and get a new bushing. Did you check the stepper motor for proper operation too? I know there is a rheostat strip in the stepper motor that controls positions it might be wore out...

Interested... (Want to see the finished product!)

If it was me I would tighten the packing nut on the valve a bit more so the valve handle is stiff so you can get a good setting so then later it doesn't rattle loose on you too..

Ok now I can help a bit more that I got the articles moved over... Starter Contacts http://articles.mopar1973man.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=124:starter-contact-replacement&catid=26&Itemid=107 Starter Specs http://articles.mopar1973man.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=123:starter-operation-and-specs&catid=26&Itemid=107

Well if you got a AD or FASS then there is no load on the ECM just that the ECM triggers the realy for the pump so there is virtually no serious amp load there. I so I would check the stock ECM leads for voltage...

Don't you mean M73M???

Well at least it fixed Right?

Curious...

Something is wrong... Being the same OBD data is being sent to the dash, Qiadzilla and the UG... They should all read the same...

Thanks for the chat on the phone glad to meet you and I hope you stick around and share you knowledge with the rest of the members here...

P0230 - Transfer Pump (Lift Pump) Circuit Out of Range Basically either the lift pump is pulling to much amps (lock rotor, shorted wiring) or to little amps (open connector or armature issues inside the lift pump) Now as for my power lead to the AirDog they are NOT hook to the battery. My connections are done off the studs in the power distribution box to prevent acid/corrosion to the wiring. As for my battery cables I keep them coated with engine oil and NEVER had to clean them nor had weak connection issues ever!

I'm patiently waiting...