Mopar1973Man

Ok... Start off by getting the blower motor and heat shield removed from the engine side.Then remove all fastners on the engine side.The box should be loose at this point and if the dash is free on the passenger side it should flex enough to allow the HVAC case to slide under the dash.

Yeap it most likely a blower motor... When you do order a motor for it make sure its got a plug on it... I've seen a few cheap motors from different part houses require you to cut and place your old plug on the bolower motor...:duh:Thinking of that it might not be a bad idea to lube both of mine up again... Before the bearings get "hosed up"

Could you shot some pictures of the box and what you got so far and I'll try to guide you the rest of the way...

White Lightning you got to catch up...

Oil temp typically follows the coolant temp fair close running empty... (Second hand info)So I tend to watch EGT's and Coolant Temp (Scan Gauge II) and try for below 350*F and below 193*F...

Give a feel for the 55 MPH in both my trucks... 1996 Dodge 1500 http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=eN-w9jhHyI8 2002 Dodge 2500 http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRQdoPs_tLo I just laugh at those who pass me... I always find them at the next fuel station... The 2 beasts...

I'd do the Edge comp too its a cheap box and give back the boost fooler you lost when the EZ fried...

Now out here we really don't have the rat race per say but now couple the weather, road conditions, and a logging truck racing to unload can be a hair raising experience. So like you I'll give him room let him go. I'm even nice enough to flash my light to alert him to get back over. Just about every time I get a flash back saying "Thank You". Out here in Idaho everything is either a 2 lane highway or a single lane dirt road.

Guns? What Guns? :lmao2:I don't see no gun? (Consealed weapons permit...) Also work with the local law enforcement (Search & Rescue)

... And Mopar1973Man.com

Well sounds like you healing up. But take your time don't rush it! I remember years ago dis-locating my left knee and how long it took to be able to walk without a brace or finally crawl back on the back of a motorcycle. Back in those day I enjoyed riding across Los Angeles, CA on my Honda CB550. Back then I was banished to my 1973 Dodge Charger that was even a trick to slide in and out of with a leg brace.So take it easy... Take your time... Let it heal up right...

The idea of the solar panel is awesome I would... In my case with the cutoff switch I could easily do that too... I've got a pair of small solar panels that would be able to give a small trickle charge...

:lmao:I've got a full case of budweiser downstairs in the basement, I don't have any christmas cookies, but I do own a few guns that need to be fired more than cleaned...

I'll be honest... It just a scrap of board and a few hole punched into it. What's truely funny is the finish work was already done I just got lucky and didn't scratch it all up with the jigsaw.

:lol:But Dripley you said you going to sit with the big folks right??? :tongue:MERRY CHRISTMAS all...

About 90% of all our camping is boondocking or dry camping. Then when at home its typical parked near power but not always. Like this winter I set it up in the yard so it was near power. But now come summer time I'll stuff it back out in the backyard again under the maple tree where its shady and less UV rays for the rubber roof. But I don't want to have to keep charging the batteries all the time when its not used...Not to mentions it give me a quick disconnect if something was to happen in the 12V side now... Yes I know everything is fuse including the master power line from the battery. But its still nice to be able to shut it down in a hurry too... CLICK!

No but it allows me to cut the 12VDC off completely and know my batteries will stay charged up while the trailer is parked some where. Like last summer I tucked the trailer in the backyard under the large maple tree. But I would have to pull a genrator out about once a week to charge the batteries up because of all the little loads like the propane detector, clock on the radio, etc. So now I can shut it completely down!

I'm thankful I live in a area where there is no cell phone coverage... We don't have these problems out here...

Well Gang... I finally got my feet wet and modified my Jayco Eagle my way. I added a battery cutoff switch and a true battery volt meter. It all tucked away in the power cabinet so its out of site out of mind. Bjut the reason for putting the cut off switch in the cabinet was I could take my trailer out to a camp site in the wood and park it and lock it up. I can shut down the power and know when I return that no one has tampered with the power because its locked up inside. Like I've see lot of idea where the battery cutoff is on the battery box but I was looking for a secure way. Also in the design of all this I set it up so if I'm hooked to 120VAC I can still keep the batteries charged but shut down all the 12VDC loads and keep the trickle draws locked out. So in the power cabinet was the best place. Now I can check the status of my batteries a bit closer to real value than the simple 4 LED's on the panel in the kitchen. My handy work...

You don't want to see what I drive over when I'm out working... I drive about 20 miles on pavement. Then leave the pavement and drive another 15-20 miles of single lane dirt roads. Then leave the dirt road and drive maybe another 1/4 mile off in the woods, rolling over small logs, rocks, etc... It got to be guarded well because where I work there is no cell service and walking out might be deadly.

No I got lucky and got a short bed bracket for my AirDog. Tucked right behind the transfer case and guarded by the skid plate. Might consider relocation if you can... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=30:how-to-install-a-airdog-150-fuel-system&catid=25&Itemid=107 Yes in Idaho too they use lots and lots of gravel, salt, and Mag-Cloride...

Even AirDog uses a 100 micron mesh pre-filter... But the 2 micron goes on the pressure side.

I see some people listen... :thumbup2:Now as the lift pump it should be power by the ECM because the crank signal to the pump is modulated at 50% duty cycle to lower fuel pressure to the VP44 during cranking to prevent hard starting issues cause by full fuel pressure. Hence why crank pressure minimum is 7 PSI and running minimum is 10 PSI...

Ok from what little I know... The early trucks had both the crank and cam yes... But the cam sensor didn't have a tone wheel just a single notch and the crank sensor had a full tone wheel on the crank. Then later the crank sensor was ditched and the full tone wheel was placed on the cam gear.I learned this tidbit from guys converting from early to later (or visa-versa) But the engine work work but keep throwing P0341 error codes because the cam tone wheel is different.

At least you took as a joke as it was intended... :thumbup2:Your like myself I'll push the limits now and then but being careful...