
Everything posted by Mopar1973Man
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Heated Mirrors- Issues
Might ohm out the wiring to be sure the mirror heaters actually failed or is it a wiring fault in the doors. Like Wild and Free mentions about the flexing of the wires in the door might break them too.
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Track bar repair question
You can try it... I've heard of plenty of people use them...
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+400 MPH Dodge 4 Cylinder!
Gives new meaning to little 4 bangers don't it...
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Dead Batteries?
What happened? (I truely feel for you)..
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leveling kit
Con is that if you install a leveling kit the nose will be high under load iether in the bed and/or trailer. Con is there is more frontal wind drag. Pro is the truck look level unloaded.
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+400 MPH Dodge 4 Cylinder!
Don't mess with the best... Because the best don't mess! http-~~-//youtu.be/Le6aCV_CRvQ Check it out... http://speeddemon.us/engine.html
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P0382 code
Long definitions... P0382 Errror Code http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2582-P0382-Intake-Air-Heater-Relay-2-Control-Circuit P1693 Errror Code http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2631-P1693-DTC-Detected-in-PCM-ECM-or-DTC-Detected-in-ECM
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leveling kit
Mine is level every time I'm using my truck... Just load it up...
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stickshift switches
I'm the same way... Single, never married, no kids...
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Boost gauge install question
I'm also a 0-35 PSI gauge...
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2nd Gen. 24V convertion to 12V
Well said Dripley...
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Boost gauge install question
You might want to check you valve lash... Something is wrong here even might is rock solid... This is my fuel pressure video but you'll clearly see the boost gauge on top. No comments about sucking a air bubble. I was low on fuel when I did the video. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=grl72Up-8T0
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2nd Gen. 24V convertion to 12V
I get a good laugh from you Rogan... Thanks...But the simple thing is with any of the Cummins line you can invest some serious money and make it bulletproof (so to speak). But Question you got to ask is how much money are you will to lay down to make it bulletproof?ISX does bring up a good point of the old 12V's and there ability to limp home with next to nothing. But once again it about being aware of your vehicle I don't care if its a 12V, 24V or CR truck each one has its sour points (as pointed out). But in any of the vehicle models it all about being aware of your vehicle and keeping the maintenance up. Like ISX point out you notice a loss of power and performance over time. Well that true with any of the Cummins models (12V, 24V, CR, Etc.) but most people tend to shrug it off to poor fuel, winterized fuel, bad hair day, wifes in a bad mood, etc. Instead of actually looking into the issue.Like on the CR engine I see more people rebuilding engines from failed injectors. Like on the 24V engine I see more VP44 failed from no fuel pressure gauge, crappy fuel, and crappy fuel filters.!2V's well they are nearly bulletproof but there is a lack of user adjustablity with the engine. Like timing a P7100 or a VE pump requires special tools to do it properly. Yes. I know ISX has a fallback plan to get stock timing. 12V's tend to do much better in the MPG department compared to any other series of engine with 6.7L being the worse in MPG's from all the smog equiptment. Now a person like ISX is knowledgable and he's very capable of doing most anything to his truck and keep it going. But from a Common Joe aspect I tend to try and keep it simple and easy.
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Hard to find leak in my camper
Well your suppose to use caulking tape for it but... Me I've been using clear silicone around all the joints and seams of my RV. It got a fiberglass body and silicone seems to adhere just fine to it. The only trouble with silicone what ever color it tend to hold on to road dust rather well making it stand out more but after washing it the RV it tend to disappear again...
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Window power
That's a start...
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Hard to find leak in my camper
I don't know...But I've seen this... http://youtu.be/PeoTlfnkNZQ
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Info needed Asap please fellas
Yes... The allen screw with lock nut. Don't over adjust it will cause the steering to bind up in the center... Do it a little at a time and test drive.
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Just my luck
Don't that suck... :duh:I get the same thing by spring time here a yard full of turkeys and deer...
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Window power
Make sure you windows regulator arms are still lubed up and not jaming up...
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battery voltage peaked
Check the green wire between the alternator and the PCM for shorts to ground. If this wire shorts to ground the alternator will run wild at max voltage...
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stickshift switches
In my old 1972 Dodge PowerWagon I had a 2 ball and a 8 ball... The truck was blue so now you know why the 2 ball...
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2nd Gen. 24V convertion to 12V
Ok... Let me let you in a secret... I live in the middle of nowhere Idaho. I travel great distances just for basic things like groceries is a 70 mile round trip. Auto part store is 104 miles round trip. WalMart is worse at 350 miles round trip.There is 3 thing the VP44 need to run a long happy life won't needing to pack around spare any thing...1. Good fuel pressure and volume. You fuel pressure should always be 14-20 PSI with only a 2-3 PSI fall from idle to WOT at highway speed.2. Good fuel filters. You stock filter can is OK if you use a high quality filter. Should try to get below 10 micron. AH64ID is the filter guru of the site.3. Lubricity. Bosch design the pump around <450 HFRR lubrcity and today's fuel is ~520 HFRR so the higher the HFRR number the less lubricity and more wear occurs. My VP44 has performed remarkably well I've got a AirDog 150 with 2 micron filters and 128:1 shot of 2 cycle oil in the fuel. I'm coming up on 150K on the clock for the VP44 and the truck is coming up on 200K miles.Vp44 fuel system are rather good performing don't fail if you understand the weakness of them. Like you mention the wanting the Ppump for it being fully mechanical. Well it got few weak points too like the mechanical lift pump is not efficent at high RPM's it start losing volume. The list go es on too...
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stickshift switches
Ahhh... Understand... You going to be in direct control of the exhaust brake. (Suggestion) You could hook it up on a keyed power lead then not have to worry about the position of the switch then...
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stickshift switches
I used a piece of angle aluminum and drill 2 holes and used a U bolt to fasten to the stick then picked out a nice Blue LED rocker. The LED blew out in a few second after hooking up. There is a hell of a surge from the vacuum solenoid which blows out normal bulbs or LEDs...I like the rocker because I can sweep my thumb back and forth to control the jake instead of push/pull.
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Cracked exhaust manifold 98.5 24v
I don't see any reason for aftermarket exhaust manifold till you making big power or this going to track runner truck where its either WOT or idle...