Mopar1973Man

This is the assembly of the AirDog 150 fuel pressure regulator...Might mis-seated the ball in the regulator. I've seen where the ball get pinned against the wall and never seals the hole so the pressure is really low. I've found that using a pencil to hold the ball in place of the seat while screwing the fitting back in help keep it from screwing up.

Like this... This is a new kettle we use for humidity in the house it only 1 month old... So after 9 years of well water / creek water... There is no scale build up...

Everyone says you must use distilled water to prevent scale build up. Well for the life of my truck its either had well water or water straight from the creek. I've never had a cooling system problem or scale build up. Here is AH64ID write up. Flushing The Cooling System

Yes... Juice should do it... I would compare both engine coolant temp and intake air temp they should be exactly the same at cold start if not one of them has failed. Yes its possible for a sensor to fail within specs and not trip error code or light. Hence why I get away with a 2.2K ohm jammed in my IAT plug...

This should help...(attached file) oil relief.pdf

Ok... I'm going to push now... what is your IAT temp like during the cold periods? You going to need a live data tool like ScanGauge II or simular to answer this question.If you want to gamble a bit you could try fooling ECM with a 2.2K ohm resistor in the IAT plug and see if it resolves the issue. What this will do is fix the IAT temp to 143*F. This will rule out if the IAT sensor is goofy.But the live data tool would be handy because then you could look at all sensors...

Well I would double check all electrical connection like battery cables and such... I would pull the alternator and have it bench tested just to put your mind at ease. Make sure the do a diode test too.As for the miss I would look at fuel pressure and error codes first thing... As for the fuel pressure what is the fuel pressure at idle and what is during road load (trailer) with your foot in the throttle?

Flagmanruss is right... Turbo has no bearing on crankcase pressure... Vacuum pump might thought... The way you could test it is by capping off the vacuum nipple right at the vacuum pump and see if that reduces the blow by. This is a crude method once again but it might give a clue...Back to my idea of compression testing you could at that point do what called a leak down test which is where you pressurize each cylinder with air and see if the air comes out of differeplace like crankcase vent, intake, exhaust, etc. Of course this requires a barring tool and a way of locking the engine at TDC for each cylinder. Kind of defeats the test if the engine rolls over till a valve opens...

From about 1,500 to 2,000 RPM's is your torque curve pass 2,000 RPM the torque start heading down hill on most trucks and the HP starts to flatten out some. Remember this is just rule of thumb guys/gals... I know some of you can provide dyno sheets with torque going well into the 3K catagory.

I've seen several good ideas here already for installing axles seals...

As for the 22 PSI it unknown...You have to remember the orignal design was setup for 14-16 PSI which was the stock carter lift pump.As for the lift pump shutting down it normal. It called PWM (Pulse Wide Modulation) where the ECM command a on time and a OFF time in rapid series. With VP44 with torn diaphragms more people rig up a relay to cut the fuel signal during cranking because the VP44 will be hypersensitive to fuel pressure. But this condition is caused from running too low of fuel pressure.

From my article base... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=29:antilock-braking-system-abs&catid=23&Itemid=107 Mopar's Notes: P0500 Error Code - Explained Since 4 wheel anti lock brakes rely on 2 front axle sensors and 1 rear wheel sensor. The CAB is watching the speed output from all 3 sensors at one time. So when on a slick surface like ice, gravel, wet pavement, etc. when you accelerate rapidly and cause the rear tires to spin the rear speed sensor jumps up in speed rapidly and the front 2 sensor could be at zero speed yet. So the CAB can't understand how the rear half of the truck is doing say 35 MPH and the front half is doing 0 MPH. POOF! P0500 code is thrown.

Well I can pass you off to another gent over on www.dieseltrucksite.com goes by the name of csynder he does conversions all the time with 12V and 24V in different bodies... His profile over on diesel truck site http://www.dieseltrucksite.com/member.php?u=44

Well that why I suggest the compression test because at least you'll get some sort of answer to this problem. Easier than pulling a head but tough to find the right tools to do it. (Test injector and compression gauge). But the guys are right if there is compressor blowing into the crankcase that badly it would push oil out anywhere...

Actually the majority of the reutrn flow is the overflow valve which is pinned open after 14 PSI this why there really no reason get get carried away with fuel pressure. Because after 14 PSI your just flooding the return line with fuel pressure racing back to the fuel tank. Now remember your supply line is 1/2" and your return lines ar 6mm (roughly 1/4") so eventiual you get to a choke point where the return line start gaining pressure because of it tiny size. Since there isn't a big line return kit with oversized overflow valve its just not going to work quite right...

:lmao:Really? Scrutinized?! Replaced?! Oh you got to be kidding... The local fire dept can't afford to replace anything. Let alone replace a truck. The oldest truck they had in service during my time was a 1951 International water tender (labeled a engine) and it was slower than a snail (top speed 45 MPH) and all gears had to be double clutched (no syncro's). Then we move up to the 1960's millitary 2 1/2 ton truck classed as water tenders (Top Speed of 50-55 MPH). Then The newest truck there is a 1994 Chevy 6.5L Diesel 3500 (Fast Attack) with 300 gallon water tank. I got tired of servicing 24 fire trucks in 6 different stations every week for absolutely NOTHING! No money! NOTHING! I had to use my own tools and my own truck most of the time too... They hoped in the truck and pedal to the floor without warm up time. The only time that was stopped is if the truck got air brakes then you had to wait for the air to build up just to release the brakes. Sorry to hijack... As for my truck its had a life of luxury now it stays in the garage just below me which is just above freezing most of the time. But yes it does get enough idle time to build a bit of warmth before hauling off. Thing that does bother me is being hitched up to the travel trailer and it still gets idle time before I haul off but the fact most times out of ten I'm hauling the trailer up hill towards New Meadows, ID so it tough to be light when you go from in the yard to 55 MPH speeds hauling up hill. I will admit the engine warms up rather quickly seeing 800-900*F pyrometer temps...

Very well said Katoom... :smart:My last post seems that I'm in a bit of a hurry and drive off... Typically not. I'm the type to fire it up and gather stuff for the trip being tools for a job, trash to haul to the dumpster, etc... By the time I jump back in the driver seat it had that chance to lube up everything and settle down a bit...Back in my not to distance past I ran a few time out the door to fire call and hauled arse down (not speeding mind you!) to the fire station which is only 1 miles away. I'm kind of glad I'm no longer working the fire dept for that reason... I'm sure its hard on the truck.

I snagged that from Competition Diesel forum...I saw the movie and was very impressed and thought about you guys here so I brought home so you all can enjoy... Sorry no... This was a shot in the dark find as is...

This is for starting temps below +32*F...I typically fire up and set the high idle mode (3 cyl or 6 cyl) set the exhaust brake. By the time I gather up things for the day and load them in the truck its about 100-120*F on the ScanGauge II. I take off. Being light throttled till I reach about 160-165*F of coolant temp then let her have it... "Kick the Pig!" :lol:Above 32*F...I just start the engine and drive... I don't even wait for the light or anything jusrt crank and go... Still being mindful of the coolant temp till about 160-165*F then "Kick the Pig!"

I think this article has earn the right to be transfered over to the tech articles.

Yes... And the 98 dash is different from the 99 dash...

It really common for those people that never change coolant till the coolant is rust or discolored. As for me I change coolant every year and flush the block. I usual catch the ones complaining about heater core issues haven't change coolant in many years or hundreds of thousands of miles...

Here you go guys and gals. A 10 minute video explaining the entire fuel system of the 98.5 to 2002 Dodge Cummins. It shows operation of the lift pump, filter, fuel heater, VP44 and injectors. Someone really out did themselves on this video! http://s1094.photobucket.com/albums/i443/TannerSpangler1/?action=view&current=Cummins_ISB.mp4

Either the heater core is plugged up or the blend door is not operating properly. If the heater hoses are both hot then the heater core is plugged up. Normally one of the hoses should be a bit cooler that the other.

Sorry being late to the party... Here is the instrument cluster wiring for a 98...