Mopar1973Man

I'm thankful I live in a area where there is no cell phone coverage... We don't have these problems out here...

Well Gang... I finally got my feet wet and modified my Jayco Eagle my way. I added a battery cutoff switch and a true battery volt meter. It all tucked away in the power cabinet so its out of site out of mind. Bjut the reason for putting the cut off switch in the cabinet was I could take my trailer out to a camp site in the wood and park it and lock it up. I can shut down the power and know when I return that no one has tampered with the power because its locked up inside. Like I've see lot of idea where the battery cutoff is on the battery box but I was looking for a secure way. Also in the design of all this I set it up so if I'm hooked to 120VAC I can still keep the batteries charged but shut down all the 12VDC loads and keep the trickle draws locked out. So in the power cabinet was the best place. Now I can check the status of my batteries a bit closer to real value than the simple 4 LED's on the panel in the kitchen. My handy work...

You don't want to see what I drive over when I'm out working... I drive about 20 miles on pavement. Then leave the pavement and drive another 15-20 miles of single lane dirt roads. Then leave the dirt road and drive maybe another 1/4 mile off in the woods, rolling over small logs, rocks, etc... It got to be guarded well because where I work there is no cell service and walking out might be deadly.

No I got lucky and got a short bed bracket for my AirDog. Tucked right behind the transfer case and guarded by the skid plate. Might consider relocation if you can... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=30:how-to-install-a-airdog-150-fuel-system&catid=25&Itemid=107 Yes in Idaho too they use lots and lots of gravel, salt, and Mag-Cloride...

Even AirDog uses a 100 micron mesh pre-filter... But the 2 micron goes on the pressure side.

I see some people listen... :thumbup2:Now as the lift pump it should be power by the ECM because the crank signal to the pump is modulated at 50% duty cycle to lower fuel pressure to the VP44 during cranking to prevent hard starting issues cause by full fuel pressure. Hence why crank pressure minimum is 7 PSI and running minimum is 10 PSI...

Ok from what little I know... The early trucks had both the crank and cam yes... But the cam sensor didn't have a tone wheel just a single notch and the crank sensor had a full tone wheel on the crank. Then later the crank sensor was ditched and the full tone wheel was placed on the cam gear.I learned this tidbit from guys converting from early to later (or visa-versa) But the engine work work but keep throwing P0341 error codes because the cam tone wheel is different.

At least you took as a joke as it was intended... :thumbup2:Your like myself I'll push the limits now and then but being careful...

I hate to say it... But I'm a stickler for telling people to fix the problem quit using band-aids... Most likely in your case the pump motor seized and the amperage went through the roof melting the wiring even with the circuit breaker because it would cycle in and out as the breaker cooled...Hopefully no harm came to the VP44...

Your right it won't... Your also right... We do have VP44's... There is only 2 causes for a dead pedal... [*]VP44 failure [*]APPS sensor failure How to tell which one it is... Just check for error codes then check your fuel pressure... If the error codes are for the VP44 and you fuel pressure is below specs (<10 PSI) at anytime under road load then it going to be VP44. If you get a P0121, P0122 or P0123 then its most likely the APPS sensor. Then you can get a Timbo's APPS and replace the stock sensor with his for $160 bucks which is much cheaper than stock $450 bucks roughly...

I'm hoping Wild & Free shows up soon but I'm going to bet there is a band adjustment or something that is calling for torque converter lock up too early. I was hoping for a error code to point me in a direction. But being the trans appear to be shifting early that could very well cause it to chug. Next time it occurs take note of the RPM's and speed.

jonathan1950 after looking up (google maps) where you live I'd won't be to worried about your loads out there in the middle of nowhere Idaho. Dang Flatlander...

Like Dripley I really didn't see a huge change but I did notice a change in the exhaust brake sounds and high RPM's... (0.008 and 0.018) Same MPG numbers but it does spool the turbo a bit quicker. (Seat-o-pants dyno)...

True he could setup a HTML page to navigate it on my server since they are already here. But provider doesn't allow directory viewing for security reasons... http://www.mopar1973man.com/isx97 So now if here place a index.htm file in his directory and links to all the pics then every could use them.

Valid point... With you in the hotshot field and hauling a trailer most of the time I can see you doing a homebrew setup more so than Airdog, etc...

Error Codes?

Caught you over at the other site but I post it here too...$68.45 - 4897669AB - Dodge Dealer Only Part

Like looking at that inflation table is the max inflation at max load... So lets say like my rear axle... With a load range E's (3042# @ 80 PSI) and max axle weight (6084#)...6084 / 2 = 3042# pounds per tire.3042 / 3042 = 1.00 Or a 100% of the tire rated load.1.00 x 80 = 80 PSI which is the inflation pressure.But we know you truck rear axle weight isn't exactly at 100% GAWR... So since you not at max load you at a percentage of load... So like my rear load weight with the trailer hitched up is 4,280...So since rear axle has half the weight on each tire you divide by 2...4,280 / 2 = 2,140 pounds of weight on each tire. Which each tire is rated for 3,042 pounds as the tire guide shows. So now divide 2,140 pound actual weight over 3,042 tire max capacity weight.2,140 / 3,042 = 0.70 So the tire is at 70% of its load capacity. So would it logical be right to inflate the tires to about 70% of the air pressure?So if the tire max air pressure is 80 PSI that means multiplying 80 times .70 would net you the pressure?0.70 x 80 = 56 PSI... Me... Then I tend to just round up to the next full tens of 60 PSI so that would be my inflation pressure for my rear axle. Remember never to exceed the tire rated pressure!Now using one from the table...2765# / 3042# = 0.90 x 80 PSI = 72 PSI (Table rates it for 70 PSI at that weight) so I'm not too far off! :tongue:1870# / 3042# = 0.61 x 80 PSI = 49 PSI (Table rates it for 40 PSI at the weight) I'm looking better with my number...

Same here I'm in the middle of nowhere Idaho which means even if Carter would to fail that mean I'm walking to safety as well as having to order a pump in that might take a few day to show up. With the lifetime warranty I feel that the product was design much better and failure is less likely of a product that a company is willing to stand behind. Like mine has been in service 5-6 years now with very little to do to the pump. Occasionally I would have to clean up the regulator check ball that it. But each his own...

5% by volume... So for a 35 gallon tank of diesel you can add 1.5 Gallons. I don't suggest the WEO oil any longer because of the ash levels in engine oil is much higher today that previous years...

Here is where I'm a bit smarter... I've got that PanaPacific gauge at the bottom of my dash and I got the outside temp alarm set at 35*F to warn me the road conditions might start freezing. Then I back out of it. Once the road conditions are snow packed or ice covered I now change the Edge Comp from 5x5 to 5x1 so instead of have max power right off... I got to build 20 PSI of boost before power is delievered but below 20 PSI I only get 33% of stock fuel rate... So my saving grace of fuel control is the Edge Comp's defueling settings. This is how I tend to get away with driving on ice and snow in 2WD.

Light would only be good if you had a adjustable Hobbs switch set for say 11-12 PSI... http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/public/P48ZUZOiD5R6C7gUidiLxwHOWPcMW2AJSHSxmUkzooQXxjgGVBf8ftIpchoeWs9m3ZEPhteyTsENJsZPOZDHzZsnUsKmPK4oTWJT86fXokavV6NexmJlDnz66gp7uy6GbMAqlstRcsJBc-kZem33SmucmuY05XE-TANX-LY Then I say a light is just "OK" but I still HIGHLY SUGGEST you consider a gauge before a light...

Yeah even my tire calc. turn out highier pressures on the front axle than rear axle. So you need to bring down the rear tire pressure. As for the front axle its a mater of find out what stock measurements are for that model. I would contact a local body shop of measure they should have them.

Ah! So Blue Chip doesn't build any pumps... So he doesn't have the in house Bosch VP44 injection pump test bench for sure... Keep them coming... We'll figure out who actually builds pumps...

Make sure they have a in house VP44 test bench if they got to mail it out they are most likely not a VP44 rebuilder just a vendor.But I would like to know who is a actually rebuilder...