Mopar1973Man

I hate to say it... But I'm a stickler for telling people to fix the problem quit using band-aids... Most likely in your case the pump motor seized and the amperage went through the roof melting the wiring even with the circuit breaker because it would cycle in and out as the breaker cooled...Hopefully no harm came to the VP44...

Your right it won't... Your also right... We do have VP44's... There is only 2 causes for a dead pedal... [*]VP44 failure [*]APPS sensor failure How to tell which one it is... Just check for error codes then check your fuel pressure... If the error codes are for the VP44 and you fuel pressure is below specs (<10 PSI) at anytime under road load then it going to be VP44. If you get a P0121, P0122 or P0123 then its most likely the APPS sensor. Then you can get a Timbo's APPS and replace the stock sensor with his for $160 bucks which is much cheaper than stock $450 bucks roughly...

I'm hoping Wild & Free shows up soon but I'm going to bet there is a band adjustment or something that is calling for torque converter lock up too early. I was hoping for a error code to point me in a direction. But being the trans appear to be shifting early that could very well cause it to chug. Next time it occurs take note of the RPM's and speed.

jonathan1950 after looking up (google maps) where you live I'd won't be to worried about your loads out there in the middle of nowhere Idaho. Dang Flatlander...

Like Dripley I really didn't see a huge change but I did notice a change in the exhaust brake sounds and high RPM's... (0.008 and 0.018) Same MPG numbers but it does spool the turbo a bit quicker. (Seat-o-pants dyno)...

True he could setup a HTML page to navigate it on my server since they are already here. But provider doesn't allow directory viewing for security reasons... http://www.mopar1973man.com/isx97 So now if here place a index.htm file in his directory and links to all the pics then every could use them.

Valid point... With you in the hotshot field and hauling a trailer most of the time I can see you doing a homebrew setup more so than Airdog, etc...

Error Codes?

Caught you over at the other site but I post it here too...$68.45 - 4897669AB - Dodge Dealer Only Part

Like looking at that inflation table is the max inflation at max load... So lets say like my rear axle... With a load range E's (3042# @ 80 PSI) and max axle weight (6084#)...6084 / 2 = 3042# pounds per tire.3042 / 3042 = 1.00 Or a 100% of the tire rated load.1.00 x 80 = 80 PSI which is the inflation pressure.But we know you truck rear axle weight isn't exactly at 100% GAWR... So since you not at max load you at a percentage of load... So like my rear load weight with the trailer hitched up is 4,280...So since rear axle has half the weight on each tire you divide by 2...4,280 / 2 = 2,140 pounds of weight on each tire. Which each tire is rated for 3,042 pounds as the tire guide shows. So now divide 2,140 pound actual weight over 3,042 tire max capacity weight.2,140 / 3,042 = 0.70 So the tire is at 70% of its load capacity. So would it logical be right to inflate the tires to about 70% of the air pressure?So if the tire max air pressure is 80 PSI that means multiplying 80 times .70 would net you the pressure?0.70 x 80 = 56 PSI... Me... Then I tend to just round up to the next full tens of 60 PSI so that would be my inflation pressure for my rear axle. Remember never to exceed the tire rated pressure!Now using one from the table...2765# / 3042# = 0.90 x 80 PSI = 72 PSI (Table rates it for 70 PSI at that weight) so I'm not too far off! :tongue:1870# / 3042# = 0.61 x 80 PSI = 49 PSI (Table rates it for 40 PSI at the weight) I'm looking better with my number...

Same here I'm in the middle of nowhere Idaho which means even if Carter would to fail that mean I'm walking to safety as well as having to order a pump in that might take a few day to show up. With the lifetime warranty I feel that the product was design much better and failure is less likely of a product that a company is willing to stand behind. Like mine has been in service 5-6 years now with very little to do to the pump. Occasionally I would have to clean up the regulator check ball that it. But each his own...

5% by volume... So for a 35 gallon tank of diesel you can add 1.5 Gallons. I don't suggest the WEO oil any longer because of the ash levels in engine oil is much higher today that previous years...

Here is where I'm a bit smarter... I've got that PanaPacific gauge at the bottom of my dash and I got the outside temp alarm set at 35*F to warn me the road conditions might start freezing. Then I back out of it. Once the road conditions are snow packed or ice covered I now change the Edge Comp from 5x5 to 5x1 so instead of have max power right off... I got to build 20 PSI of boost before power is delievered but below 20 PSI I only get 33% of stock fuel rate... So my saving grace of fuel control is the Edge Comp's defueling settings. This is how I tend to get away with driving on ice and snow in 2WD.

Light would only be good if you had a adjustable Hobbs switch set for say 11-12 PSI... http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/public/P48ZUZOiD5R6C7gUidiLxwHOWPcMW2AJSHSxmUkzooQXxjgGVBf8ftIpchoeWs9m3ZEPhteyTsENJsZPOZDHzZsnUsKmPK4oTWJT86fXokavV6NexmJlDnz66gp7uy6GbMAqlstRcsJBc-kZem33SmucmuY05XE-TANX-LY Then I say a light is just "OK" but I still HIGHLY SUGGEST you consider a gauge before a light...

Yeah even my tire calc. turn out highier pressures on the front axle than rear axle. So you need to bring down the rear tire pressure. As for the front axle its a mater of find out what stock measurements are for that model. I would contact a local body shop of measure they should have them.

Ah! So Blue Chip doesn't build any pumps... So he doesn't have the in house Bosch VP44 injection pump test bench for sure... Keep them coming... We'll figure out who actually builds pumps...

Make sure they have a in house VP44 test bench if they got to mail it out they are most likely not a VP44 rebuilder just a vendor.But I would like to know who is a actually rebuilder...

Like for me I might let it idle for enough temp to bring coolant temp up to 80-100*F and then leave by that time everything in the engine is well lubed up and the oil is starting to thin down a bit and more than safe to drive. By 140-160*F you can cut loose and kick that pig...

As for seals you could replace that seal on the cover if you can get one... I would ask TH Racing (one of vendors) he might have an idea on where to get the seals.As for the exhaust manifold rather common on truck that have seen some pretty hot temps. I would consider doing a compression test t verify the cylinder health. If that can't be done you could do a blow by test but that kind of general sum test of all blow by.

War Eagle is pretty close to right with the document... :smart:At least the older 70's Dodge boxes where very close to the Chevy doc... As a matter of fact I just done a modified 70's Dodge gear box for a older 1972 Ford truck...

Might check out this thread I started a while back... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/4767-WTB-Fold-Out-Towing-Mirrors-(Heated-amp-Electric-Adjustable)

Welcome to the family...

What?! 4WD and Tire Chains are for wussies... We get 4-5 foot of snow every year in New Meadows, ID I travel that road all the time with just 2WD and no chains. The only time I use 4WD is when I'm stuck or climbing grades. When the grade is ove the typical 7% then I chain up. because its just to easy to start slipping and sliding around. Oh as for the Jeep its still for sale...

Say what? http://articles.mopar1973man.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&id=17&Itemid=118 Or... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2122-Mopar1973Man-2002-Dodge-Cummins http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2123-Mopar1973Man-1996-Dodge-Ram How many copies do I need? Taking about turkeys... Geez...