Mopar1973Man

Well gang my PC is getting it beating tonight. I been burning backups and such and started noticing that the DVD are like a near un-burnt state in the middle ring of the disk like the lazer is getting weak and just not burning the disk strong any longer. So now next time I'm headed to Boise, ID I'm going to stop by my old computer part dealer and see about getting a new DVD-RW drive to replace this one... Well I got to admit I got 5 years from it before it final got flakey about burning...

Correct... That is how the ratio system works... So you could change it up and use liters too... But that might just mess you up realy bad... There is no such thing as a dumb question here and no your not going to get flamed just because you don't know... Well you might get slobbered on but that all...

:punish:Well get with it... I know you crippled up with your injuries but there is nothing stopping you from ordering the parts... Good ol' LarryB has them...

I say its time to give up the AMSOil filter... I'm not a fan of any washable filter just not with that kind of risk for such a expensive engine... Now since the turbo looks like than I would look at the rest of the plumbing like the tubes and intercooler to be sure there isn't a bunch of oil and girt being drawn into the engine. 10 years later and 195K miles...

Basically turn the vane to it closes off the exhaust. Which it won't be able to seal it off completely but block it partially...

Interesting...

Common rail you do 200:1 ratio... On 12V and 24V you do 128:1 ratio... So 128 ozs of fuel : 1 oz of oil... Or 200 ozs of fuel : 1 oz of oil...

56K ohm is for 3 cylinder high idle. 39K ohm is for 6 cylinder high idle.

Just to agree with Jacob there...

I desided to sticky the thread and would like to thank Diesel Auto Power for the information... I would love to get a more detailed listing if there are more shops with the Vp44 test bench.

Basically it comes do to makeing phone calls and verifying if the VP44 shop has a VP44 injection pump test bench in shop or do they have to ship it else where to have the final bench work done. It just a matter of a phone call.Lots of injection pump shop out there but only a small handful actual have the test bench... So if people were to report back who has and who hasn't got a bench we can weed out the middle man and get right to the "Main Man"...

Go get a code reader... 2001 are known not to show all codes because of a software issue... 1998.5 and 1999 don't work at all... 2000 some report both error codes and some only report PCM. 2001 are known to only report PCM only. 2002 will report both PCM and ECM using the key trick.

Ummm...

Now the only reason I wouldn't use 2 cycle oil is the DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter)... Because I've not had any testing done on newer 6.7L vehicles. But as for the common rail engines (5.9L) they seem to handle it just fine. So I see no reason why a 6.7L common rail wouldn't be able to run 2 cycle oil except for the DPF... I have no idea if the 2 cycle oil will effect it...

Here is my setup...Take notice the gap to the bottom of the tank is only the thickeness of a quarter (coin). Then take notice the tip is cut flat not at a angle. Then there is is only small 1/16" notches added to the tip. I can get below 1/8 of tank with out thinking most times. But if I launch hard of course Mother Nature is going to pull the fuel rearward and the the possibly of sucking air does happen but it all depends on hard your stomping on it... In the video watch on the return trip I get on it pretty hard and sloosh the fuel in the tank (1/4 of fuel). This is what you get... But I've ran plenty of times below the ...

I don't measure absolutlely perfect 1 oz to 1 gallon but I do get it close to being that...

I didn't want to steal alll your thunder... :lol:1 cord of dry firewood is typically 2,500 to 2,800 pounds being thats closer to 1.5 cords that makes it 3,750 to 4,200 pounds roughly in the bed. I would love to have a local scale... I know I would be shocked...

Now that Pepsi got you going down this road how about check for error codes... I wonder if the famous P0216 code is there... Being the white smoke and P0216 usually go hand in hand...

As for what oil to use its just plain ol' engine oil 15w-40... As for what most likely killed them is the purple cleaner and then when you hosed them off you most likely forced the cleaner into the cells or the cooler water created a mild vacuum on the battery and drew it in. Batteries don't like the electrolyte being contaminated with other chemicals. Then with the red tops or any sealed batteries in time they loose there water content from the cells and start to dry out. If you switch back over to a typical wet cell battery and keep after it you be right back to 5-10 year life span again.

With that said... Firewood load of 2011 (Coldsprings Mountain) http://maps.google.com/maps?q=45.422793,-116.478081&num=1&t=h&vpsrc=0&z=12

D'Oh! Feed cable voltage drop testing...

110K miles and still rolling with 2 cycle oil mixed at 128:1 ratio... No problems to report.

Yeah I know its a extreme side of the biodiesel story I know those kind of failure are rare for station bought biodiesel but as for homebrew diesel its still very possible to opps on.. So I typical post up the thread to let people know it not something to take lightly about. If you going to make your own biodiesel make sure to get a game plan and stick to it don't cut corners on your production. Maybe I mis-understood you orignal post as for producing your own Biodiesel. :shrug:But as for purchasing B2 or B5 thats fine and will have little to no problems with it.

ISX does have a valid point. But You know CF for the lazyness they have over there... (Use The search function) But I'm having a nice chuckle from the turbo delete... Personally I stay over my side of the fence and look for MPG and Milestones... I typically don't get into flaming threads...

Ok... Now then start looking at doing a voltage drop test...