Mopar1973Man

Dripley is right on the money... You want to scan the codes, write them down and then clear them. Then take a drive with the vehicle and see if the codes return it might take 5-10 miles of driving to trigger the condition of the code(s). But then the second batch of codes are the real codes that are currently a issue. But the first batch of code you might loo into because in might be loose wire or a wet connector problem...

If there is no problems... P-PCU--------P DoneP-ECU--------P DoneThat is all you'll see. No codes but just p-done twice.But if there is old code(s) they will be stored for 40 warmup cycles... (Not key cycles!)

Now there is a pre filter than is worth making... :wink:I'm still going to get me a piece of fabric and going to make me one...

Seems like our northern brothers and gathering up...

Just got done with this problem on my truck the cable had froze up completely and only 1 brake was working. But cables are really cheap to replace through RockAuto.Com. I paid all of $22 bucks for my passenger side cable. It might be worth looking into replacement of the cables than wondering if the cable going to last... Just checked on RockAuto.Com and yours are ranging from $12 bucks to $25 bucks.

No using the key trick where you turn the key On - Off - On - Off- On in under 5 seconds then it will diplay error codes in the odometer display. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=7XQJmaIF9Do

Might not be a bad idea... It might give you a peek in side look around for any damage. It could be that the metal was up in the axle tubes and now has flushed out?

Neither am I but still...

Most likely the metal is from a previous problem and it wasn't cleaned... So I would replace it and then keep an eye on the rear diff oil and the plug magnet and see if there is more metal showing up.

Right here... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/23-brake-system/29-antilock-braking-system-abs

You could use either product as far as I know...

Smarty would be the only choice for a programmer that can read codes and give a boost of power. As for being able to read codes and give back information back (live data) then you would be looking at a ScanGauge II be the boost of power is not part of it.

Dripley is right the rear speed sensor is failing that why the speedometer is not functioning properly. Not to mention its messing with the ABS computer because its seeing half a truck rolling faster than the other half so ABS is confused... Just replace the rear speed sensor and you'll be good to go...

Cool maybe you'll be writing a few articles to add to the article database...

Welcome to the family... :thumbup2:Grab a beverage and sit down and read... Ask plenty of questions...

53 is normally found near the turbo oil return line... http://stamey.info/Truck/Cummins53BlockFAQ.htm

Most likely the clockspring or upper bearing?As for air bag just unhook both batteries and leave alone for at least 15 mintues before staring work this will allow the air bag system to discharge and make it safe to work on the steering wheel without having to worry about it discharging.

Come guy and gals show off your Cummins Swapped vehicles... I know there is a few of you out there that have shoe horned a Cummins in more than just a truck frame. Lets see it... Lots a of pictures wanted!

I agree with TH Racing... There will be no problems mechanical with installing... It will bolt right up. As for the ECM I would use your current ECM and just swap it to the new engine.

I'm just after the stock filter housing in the hose going to the VP44... 7 years and still going strong!But you 10 PSI at idle is seriously low and should be bumped up... Idle should be around 15-19 PSI... Wot should be 10-14 PSI...

He's right...

All right here... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/24-air-system/41-bhaf-big-honkin-air-filter

Well as for the noise its the slip joint in the shaft is going south. I managed to change the u-joints yesterday and made a few runs with the 4WD locked and it would only start howling about 55 MPH and above. But I got fresh tight U-joints now so I know its not that but the slip joint was just a tick loose. :rolleyes:Well since its a CAD system and I normally don't run 4WD I'll get some use from that shaft yet... Maybe get luck and find another shaft... Who knows...@ Russ as for the binding up that typical for both of the trucks... Usually I get them unbound by either feather out the throttle to get slack or roll forward and backwards a bit and it usually releases. As for release under load the 96 still makes quite a thump when the CAD releases...

Did you have 1, 3, and 4 loose when trying to start it?

Welcome to the family... Make yourself at home and ask lots of questions...