Mopar1973Man

I've been using the 35W bulbs in the backup lights and stealing the 100W for the front to replace the blown bulbs...

Dually is right pul lthe hose... Then twist the cap off (normal right hand threads).Then use a shop mirror or a small hand mirror...

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=3522&d=1328194972

Call Vulcan Performance (Eric) and get the push loc fitting and JIC's and never worry about it...

I went over and download the demo software and played for a moment andd I'm truely impressed. http://www.madselectronics.com/DownloadUDC.html The sample file included with the demo happens to be a Common Rail of some sort but the fact you can change up all the timing curves, fueling amounts, etc... This is truely a awesome tuner. This really worth it for the common rails I'm curious how the the 24V's will work...

You might check the alternator for a bad diode AC noise will cause the same issues too...

My local NAPA store was cool about it they would pull the the bulbs out re-stock them and replace them with the specified bulbs. Then charge me accordingly. Check around...

Oil seems to do awesome... But grease is just plan messy. When you oil a terminal the oil will run and thin out. So the next time you rub the post with jacket sleeve less likely to pick up oil as you would thick grease. Not to mention the oil seems to retard acid pooling too...

Rogan... You memory is in the mail and on its way too you...:thumbup2:Also Thank you for telling me to try Ubuntu... Wow! This is slick so far but I'm just scratching the surface as of right now...

Way to go Russ...Not to make light of your victory but I want to toss in a learning curve. This is the point where people say "Yeah I pulled the battery cables off and hooked it back up and it must of re-booted the computer because it now works". But actually it was a poor connection and you just resolved this issue with a good terminal cleaning. Now you want my secret? Now using a oiling can coat the battery terminals with engine oil and leave wet. They will never oxidize or corrode again as long as you never wash the oil off. If you do just reply...

Wild & Free is right... Once you failed the compression test you know there is internal damage now... Any other test you perform is going to fail too... So it time to knuckle down and get the tool box out and fix the problem the more you drive it around the more damage the engine is taking. So of course the long you wait the more expensive it is to fix...

I was climbing Goose Creek grade (7%). All the same size tires 235/85 R16's (wore out) I guess I can fire it up this morning and take a little ride with a video camera. --- Update to the previous post... Ok... So a slid under the truck today with my creeper and check the u-joint and there is just a small amount of movement in the driveshaft in one direction but not in the other direction (90* worth of turn). So I'm going to assume this is my whine I'm hearing... I check the differential oil and its full and golden color yet. I guess its time to hit the part store again...

Watch the suction lines that where they might leak. Also if they do leak it will not leak outwards with diesel but leak inward with air so it will always be a dry fitting but you might have problems with starting cold.

I think CumminsDieselPower got it right... I think its a TQ Conv lock up switch.

I wish... They are having McCall,ID Winter Carnival this week again... http://mccallchamber.org/carnival_home.html

Correct...

You might go back over the turbo one more time... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/24-air-system/122-turbo-inspection

I'm going to crawl out there tomorrow to take a look see...

Ok gang...Time to pick your brain a bit. My 1996 dodge Ram 1500 has a CAD axle under it. This morning heading towards Donnelly, ID it was only 15*F and slick. So climbing Goose Creek grade I figured I'd lock the 4WD and be safe. Once it locked and the 4WD light came on it just whined the whole way. So Near the top I push the stick back 2WD and the CAD remain locked for a bit long but still whined... The POP! CAD released and whine is gone...I remember I checked the gear oil last month and it was full and clean and the Transfer case was full and clean too. So my thought is u-joints??? :shrug:CAD axle are new to me... Haven't played with them much yet...

Welcome to the family of Cummins Owners...

Combination of the Edge Comp and low temp mine rattles like there is a mechanic stuck in the bottom end with a sledge hammer trying to get out... Once I get some boost pressure built up the timing starts retarding and it dissappears.Or just turn the Edge Comp off and it goes away.

That what I've been doing... I've got a 5K rheostat down by my transfer case and been going through all the different temps looking for a high spot. But the colder I get the lower the MPG's get. If I flip on my high idle switch (IAT 13*F) then it drop considerable.But I find for the MPG's its best around 130-140*F range...

Well to the family... :thumbup2:As for the power steering its gear driven off the cam gear. But in-between the power steering and the gear is a vacuum pump. What you might do is pull the entire assembly (vacuum pump and power sterring pump) so you can inspect the shaft and be sure nothing is broken in the vacuum pump since it couples the power steering pump to the gear. I would like to ask is the power steering fluid dark or black colored?

See the family came through again and got you back up and running... Thanks bjytech for helping out! Ok to help out I know its a long away around but here is thr page with the smiley codes so you can type them in... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/misc.php?do=showsmilies

Or get a gear lube with friction modifer already blended in.