Mopar1973Man

Here you go... PDC (Power Distribution Center) notice my accessories are tied to the postive battery lead. Take notice there is isn't any wires hanging off my terminals...

Here you go... Mopar1973Man's Command post that keeps the Mopar1973Man.com forum going...AMD AM2 5200, 4 GB DDR2 Ram, 1.5 TB and 250 GB hard drives (Mopar1973Man Power House)Mopar Mom's workstation her computer down on the floor also another AMD AM2 5200, 4 GB DDR2 Ram, 500 GB hard driveThis is where all the work gets done... :rolleyes:Ok back to the DVD RW problem...This is the best picture I could manage to get but if you look at the data surface there is like a darker segment to it through the middle of the ring like the lazer got tired and no longer really burned the disk properly. Well I've tried a few different disks and all turned out the same way. I even open the drive up check the hub and lazer rack and it was all good little dust in there. But clean it all up and tired again... Still a bad burn...

Here you go... I'm going to see about buying one or building one... :thumbup2:Nice find hex0rz

That's where the good ol Ppumped 12V cummins will swallow nearly anything for fuels... Jet fuel, kerosene, waste engine oil, etc... What wrong with a bit of plastic diesel... :rolleyes:Sorry I just have a hard time with it still... But with more study and getting popular it will come along and be accepted... Most likely not by EPA though...

Salt is a bad thing for any metals... :nono:At this point your running me thin on information so now at this point I'm going to have to step back in the crowd and take a seat and learn with you. So please post your finding...

Like in my post I'm a long bed quad cab... Rear axle rated for 6084# GAWR with overload springs. My empty weight is roughly 2,800-2,900# on the rear axle which its giving me 3184# of weight capacity for the rear axle roughly.

Personally I wouldn't want any of that going down in the air system towards the intercooler. Sad but it would be best to remove the turbo and wash it with a mild solvent. This means removing the compressor housing and cleaning it too. Removing the piping and clean it and possibly look in the intercooler.It might feel gritty but baby powder is really fine a smooth material but dust even that fine can ruin a set of rings.

What you never seen a power user before? Like I said there is roughly 2.0 TB (2,000 GB) worth of storage in the network here... 3 computers... I'd shoot a picture of the office area but my camera is a bit frosty from being out in the garage all night. :banghead:

Runs on the auto ignition temperature laws... Just like a diesel just different fuel and different compression ratio... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autoignition_temperature

I would love to have one in my search and rescue pack for those times I might get stuck in the back country and needing a camp fire for the night.

I've got plenty of horsepower under the case but the hard drives and the DVD-RW are dying one at a time. I lost my backup drive back at Jan, 1 2012. So I ponied the backup over on my 1.5 TB drive to keep rolling. So now the DVD-RW died and cutting DVD backups isn't working no more...This is just the 2 computers... (Mom's is network into mine as well) the shop computer is not on during this time... so there is another 3 hard drives missing...

The biggest problems is the filtering of the final fuel and drying the fuel after washing. Most people end up with way too much water in the fuel or still got glycerin in the fuel. So if you filter it well before using and allow it to separate out the water then you should be good.

Yeah it would but my whole idea is to find someone willing to test with a DPF and prove its not going to plug up early or...

Good point you could burn the fuel in say a oil heater...

Beautiful trucks! :cool:On ford truck the DEF (Urea) fill is right next to the fuel tank. One guy mess up and put the urea in the fuel tank and ruined a engine. :rolleyes:As for the whole diesel emmision standar thing... But I would look into to it if it can be done... Or like some other fire dept have done is use smaller injectors.

All listed right there on wikipedia... Fire pistons have a compression ratio of about 25 to 1. The piston of the firepiston is made deliberately narrow so that the force on the piston is not too great to make it impossible for unaided human strength to compress the air in the cylinder to its fullest extent. Rapid compression of a gas (known as adiabatic compression) increases its pressure and its temperature at the same time. If this compression is done too slowly the heat will dissipate to the surroundings as the gas returns to equilibrium with them. The compression of the air when the piston is quickly rammed into the cylinder causes the interior temperature to rise sharply to 260°C (500°F).

No... Thread sealants will cause all kind of problems with electric gauges. Take it back apart and clean all the fitting assemble dry. Notice there is none on mine...

Well gang my PC is getting it beating tonight. I been burning backups and such and started noticing that the DVD are like a near un-burnt state in the middle ring of the disk like the lazer is getting weak and just not burning the disk strong any longer. So now next time I'm headed to Boise, ID I'm going to stop by my old computer part dealer and see about getting a new DVD-RW drive to replace this one... Well I got to admit I got 5 years from it before it final got flakey about burning...

Correct... That is how the ratio system works... So you could change it up and use liters too... But that might just mess you up realy bad... There is no such thing as a dumb question here and no your not going to get flamed just because you don't know... Well you might get slobbered on but that all...

:punish:Well get with it... I know you crippled up with your injuries but there is nothing stopping you from ordering the parts... Good ol' LarryB has them...

I say its time to give up the AMSOil filter... I'm not a fan of any washable filter just not with that kind of risk for such a expensive engine... Now since the turbo looks like than I would look at the rest of the plumbing like the tubes and intercooler to be sure there isn't a bunch of oil and girt being drawn into the engine. 10 years later and 195K miles...

Basically turn the vane to it closes off the exhaust. Which it won't be able to seal it off completely but block it partially...

Interesting...

Common rail you do 200:1 ratio... On 12V and 24V you do 128:1 ratio... So 128 ozs of fuel : 1 oz of oil... Or 200 ozs of fuel : 1 oz of oil...

56K ohm is for 3 cylinder high idle. 39K ohm is for 6 cylinder high idle.