Mopar1973Man

Thanks anoldbiker...I personally don't think there is any difference in hot or cold fuel for MPG's. I think the MPG factor comes from how well the pump is maintained. Because right now I'm holding a set MPG number for the most part through the winter and through the summer.

When I heard about EFI live being build for the Dodge I was tickled to death but then learned later on that EFI Live figure the VP44 technology is just too old to deal with so it never going to be done... :banghead:I would love to have that kind of flexiblity in programming the ECM and VP44... Wow could you imagine the tunes a person could actually do if he's got the proper talent. Then in the same token imagine how may people would blow up enginnes and make smoke tunes.

Pumping the tank dry and dropping the tank would of still been easier... But since your coating the frame it sound like a god idea... As for the return line you'll be able to fix it now...Those old school 12v's had steel plumbing they had a problem with rusting out after while...

TH Racing is right RV275 is a really good mild injector... I'm running RV275's and Edge Comp as well... EGT's are in check no problems with EGT's with towing either. As for doing both projects... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/61-injectors-removal and http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/121-valve-lash-adjustment

Now after chasing all muy leaks just like you have and the constant in and out that's where my practice time came in... Now it like changing a set of spark plugs on a in-line 6 engine for me...

Hopefully this goes for the VP44 trucks too...

That's why I'm going to make the ad banner up... There is also a calendar function but the What's new doesn't show unless you click "What's New" then click "New Events" then it will show up... Most people won't look... :banghead:

Nice... I'm a little longer at about 45 minutes to pull injectors on a 24V...

Here is my pressures as of last summer... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=grl72Up-8T0 But now if I wonder over to CF.com and look around I'll find post where guys have install a brand new AirDog 165 and getting fuel pressures starting as high as 23 PSI and pull it down to 11 PSI. Pressure fall sure still be only 2-3 PSI for a good fuel system anything above 5 PSI is a serious issue. This why I have a problem with Dodge and the test idle pressure only and pressure doesn't mean anything on volume. So what happens if you setup like this guy? (AirDog 150) http-~~-//youtu.be/NB8o24rw1eU Then there is some performance pump rebuilder out there making statements of "(Un-named) proved that 5 PSI, under load, made all the horsepower the VP44 pump could make, even with stock fuel lines, fittings and supply pump." and people now think that VP44 will survive at 5 PSI now because of this 1 shop making this claim on a dyno. There is no other statements made about longevity. Then you got all the fuel additive market out there selling snake oil claiming to clean injectors and boost MPG and HP. Most of this stuff does nothing... Then you have the owners that are cheapin' out and using cheap fuel filters, stock lift pumps, no fuel pressure gauge, dumping in tons of fuel additives and get fuel from there red dye farm tanks and wonder why the VP44 fails in less than 100K miles. Geez I wonder...

Let me know if that's a go I'll get ad banner going for those times...

Consider yourself lucky... I lost my first lift pump and VP44 at 50K miles basically... Since then I've been running on the 2nd VP44 with no signs of failure. I keep the fuel lubed up, keep the fuel pressure up, and keep good filters in the system. As for the fuel heater its disable after a certain temperature I want to say 70*F.So beyond that there is no magic to keeping the VP44 going...It just there is so many people abusing these pumps with low fuel pressure, dirty fuels, crappy filters, using dry fuels like kerosene, etc. Then they post up of how bad the VP44's are. It not the VP44 it the owners that abuse them.

Part of the problem is lack of good fuel flow. There is still goofballs out there running around listening to some other people about 5 PSI is great. Here is your heat problem. P1688 is a electronics failure code. Typically heat failure. Solder was part of the problem suppose to fix that problem with Rev 25 of the VP44. I tried looking up the rev numbers but no luck. Most of the failures now are still fuel pressure based and filter based. Either physically wearing the pump out or allowing the pump electronics to get hot. As for the solder failure I've not heard of one in a long time. As for the cooling ability of the lift pump is all based on how much fuel is in the tank and how warm the fuel in the tank is. So like today with winter weather heat soak in a mute point. But come summer its a important thing to consider.

No... Because the chip inside the case has physical contact with the back side aluminum cover that has contact with the fuel. So like saying I pull in with a hot engine and put a fan blowing on it. Do you think all the parts that are surrounded by coolant are going to remain hotter longer? Sure... So just think of the fuel in this case being the coolant. So the stagnant fuel sitting in the pump is collecting heat along with all the other parts. I hard doubt a pelter cooler or blower is going to keep the electronics cool will all the barriers you got... If you want to keep the electronics cool don't shut off the engine, leave it running. As long as the engine is running the fuel is moving. Even BlueChip was going to build a lift pump timer to push fuel through, but it failed..there is no way to move fuel through the VP44 fast enough without the engine turning.

Even mine slobbers a few drops on the shop floor even after the crankcase vent mod. But the oil level never drops. I don't lose much oil at all.

As for the solder issue, it was taken care of a while back. As for the heat issue..I look at it this way. Take your laptop computer with you on a hot summer day with it laying in the back seat baking in the heat of the cab. 130-140*F inside. But the laptop is off and it can withstand that heat during storage. Now when you pull it out to operate it the room temp that is a milder 70-80*F, the laptop computer is happy and will operate a very long time. So like the VP44, it takes a heat soak from all the cast iron around it. Now when you fire it up and you hav 14 PSI or greater the fuel cools it down fairly quickly because the over flow valve is open and flowing fuel under the VP44 electronics. The bottom of the VP44 PSG.

Smarty doesn't exactly remove Torque management from the ECM it just reduces it. So for guys that are into racing and dyno's you see a dead spot to about 20-25 MPH and tha Bam! it launches hard. Or another way to see it is to power brake the trans to get a burn out going and you notice it just won't build a good head of boost before cutting back. The only true torque management box out is the BD Rad box which kills torque management completely but also lose the instrument panel too...

Actually the 4,500 PSI is idle pressure for a VP44... VP44 pumps are capible of 18,000-20,000 PSI (Some where around there). Common Rail can reach above 20,000 PSI to about 25,000 PSI the injector bodies start to crack.

There is a balance to fuel temperature. You want it warm enough to make it thin anf easy pumping but also cool enough to take away heat from the electronics. The typical fuel temperatures I've been hearing is right around 120*F. I know that with the cold temps I get out here in Idaho the fuel thickens up and it hard to pump. Why I kept my stock fuel heater and filter. This way I can pull the heat from the manifold and heat the fuel up to get it thinned out again. Like my last trip to Ontario, OR I left New Meadows, ID at 5*F above and came home in 15*F above for evening temp.

Here you go... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/256-the-ultimate-fass-guide

Yes there is a timer on the grid heater. The timer is based on how cold the IAT temp sensor gets. Getting down to about 20*F above should be a good 10-15 seconds pre-heat.Might be a good idea and clean it all up again and re-check...

Ok...No block heater. Then keep the IAT fooler OFF. Turn the key to ON and see if the Wait To Start pops on and watch the battery voltage it should fall. If the voltage doesn't fall and the Wait To Start is quick to shut off it might be a IAT sensor issue. Double check the 2 black wires on the driver side positive cable to be sure they have power down to the relays (solenoids). There is 2 fusible links before the relays so if there is no power there then the fusible links or the ring terminal is bad.This all can checked with a test light. Might check for error codes if any...If you had a ScanGauge II or a live data tool it would be really simple to diagnose... Just look to see what the IAT sensor is reporting at startup. It should match the ECT sensor.

Humidity is going to have effect of cooling too... Too high of humidty and the cooling effect is reduced.But that's about normal...

Fire is right...:smart:Not to mention the initial draw of the 2 computers (PCM and ECM) they will wipe out a fuse right off...Make sure to hook up the circuit for a short time then pull the fuse or cable and test after. But if you test on inital hook it will wipe out the DVM fuse...

That was the orignal design... But the thing was on one wanted to hang around a empty chatroom so it soon feel apart. I'm waiting to see when a schedule is going to get produced once it does I can manufacture a banner ad again to avertise the chatroom and when its happening. But right now its rather random and spotty...

Personally I wish Smarty would do a programmer like EFI live where you can sit down with a laptop and programmer all the values into the ECM... :drool:Now I'm dreamin'