Mopar1973Man

Welcome to the family. As for the roof clearance lights I would careful remove each one and re-seal them with silicone. Then I would consider carefully romoving the console and double checking all the wiring to the bulbs and switches for corrded/rusted connections. The over headlighting has a constant +12V so all thats needed is the ground. So if there has be water getting in it might have a partial ground causing the glow.Pink wire should be +12V and the yellow wire is the ground trigger back to the headlight switch or door pins switches... (Pretty sure of my colors from memory... )

I didn't know that... :banghead: I guess your going to have to help him... Ok looking towards the 2003 factory service manual to try and fill in again... I don't know if both systems are the same. OPERATION The electronic gear selector indicator gives an indication to the vehicle operator of the transmission gear that has been selected with the automatic transmission gear selector lever. This indicator is controlled by the instrument cluster circuit board based upon cluster programming. The cluster circuitry automatically configures itself for the proper transmission and automatic transmission model based upon the hard wired transmission range sensor mux circuit input to the cluster. The gear selector indicator information is displayed by a dedicated Vacuum Fluorescent Display (VFD) unit on the instrument cluster electronic circuit board, and the VFD will not display the gear selector indicator information after the ignition switch is turned to the Off position. The instrument cluster circuitry configures the gear selector indicator VFD based upon the following inputs from the transmission range sensor: Open Circuit - If the cluster is configured for an automatic transmission and the transmission range sensor mux circuit is open, the cluster circuitry controls the gear selector indicator display based upon electronic messages received from the electronic Transmission Control Module (TCM) over the Programmable Communications Interface (PCI) data bus. If the transmission range sensor mux circuit is open and no electronic messages are received from the TCM within two seconds, the instrument cluster circuitry will not display any gear selector position until the condition is resolved or until the ignition switch is turned to the Off position, whichever occurs first. Resolved Circuit - If the transmission range sensor mux circuit is resolved, the cluster circuitry controls the gear selector indicator display based upon the resistance value of the hard wired input from the transmission range sensor. If the cluster is configured for an automatic transmission with a transmission range sensor input and detects a short to ground or an open in the transmission range sensor mux input, the instrument cluster circuitry will not display any gear selector position in the VFD. The VFD display for the short-to-ground and open circuit conditions will continue until the condition is resolved or until the ignition switch is turned to the Off position, whichever occurs first. Actuator Test - Each time the cluster is put through the actuator test, the gear selector indicator VFD will display all of its characters at once during the VFD portion of the test to confirm the functionality of the VFD and the cluster control circuitry. On models with a TCM, the TCM continually monitors the transmission range sensor, then sends the proper gear selector indicator position messages to the instrument cluster. On models without a TCM, the instrument cluster continually monitors the hard wired transmission range sensor multiplexed input. For further diagnosis of the gear selector indicator or the instrument cluster circuitry that controls this function, (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/INSTRUMENT CLUSTER - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING). For further diagnosis of the transmission range sensor on models without a TCM, (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/ TRANSAXLE/AUTOMATIC - 42RE/TRANSMISSION RANGE SENSOR - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING) or (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/ TRANSAXLE/AUTOMATIC - 46RE/TRANSMISSION RANGE SENSOR - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING). On models with a TCM, for proper diagnosis of the transmission range sensor, the TCM, the PCI data bus, or the electronic message inputs to the instrument cluster that control the gear selector indicator, a DRBIIIt scan tool is required. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic information.

None... Other that you got more strung around the engine than I do...

Raptor pump should have its own relay and power supply triggered by the ECM...Raptor should never be wired directly to the ECM...

Even when I'm hitched up to the Jayco I don't allow any gear to pulled down below 1,500 on the tach. I will always gear down and grab a gear lower. Same practice should be used on a automatic trans too.

Any oil that is CI-4 or CJ-4 rated is what you need for your Cummins.For most vehicles in the main 48 states can run 15w-40...Beyond that its just a name on a bottle...

Welcome to the family Robbie.. But I'm not exactly clear on what going on here... The indicator on the dash is just a cable driven pointer. GEAR SELECTOR INDICATOR OPERATION The mechanical gear selector indicator gives an indication of the transmission gear that has been selected with the automatic transmission gear selector lever. A red pointer appears in a window below the character in the indicator representing the transmission gear that has been selected. The small, spring-loaded pointer moves on a track through a trolley-like mechanism within the indicator housing. A short length of small diameter stranded cable is attached to one side of the pointer trolley and is encased in a tubular plastic housing that exits the right side of the indicator. The cable is routed through the instrument panel and under the steering column to the left side of the column. The looped end of the cable is hooked over the end of the PRNDL driver lever on the steering column gearshift mechanism, and the cable housing is secured in a molded plastic adjuster and bracket on the column housing. When the gear selector lever is moved the PRNDL driver lever moves, which moves the pointer through the mechanical actuator cable. The cable adjuster and bracket unit mounted on the steering column housing provides a mechanical means of calibrating the gear selector indicator mechanism.

Close enough...

Basically where it went to was that the contact information I was given was a email address for Chevron. Which in turn pointed me back to there spec sheet on the web site. :rolleyes:I guess if we want more information about diesel fuels we are going to need a inside man with one of the companies.

Overhead computers are not accurate... :duh:What was you hand math?Or if you want closer to accurate MPG numbers use a ScanGauge II...

Glad its up and running...

Oh yeah there is no such thing a stupid question here... We are all here to learn from each other... Welcome to the family!

Good to see it fired up and running now you got to get it buttoned up and on the street...

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/market.php

No... Just pop the seal on and tighten up...

Deal... How about 500 points...???

Like the fact the cetane is a huge facotr in that... Dark green - summer fuels Light green - winter fuels This why I keep telling people don't use a anti-gel or cetane boost unless you really need too. Because in both cases all it does is reduced the power output (BTU's) and reduce MPG's

Here is ashed oil like engine oil and ATF... Here is ashless...

Much nicer than mine is... I've got to dig mine out of the RV... I'll get a pic of it in the morning...

The best I can say is that you'll know more when you pull the turbo off and clean the compressor housing because you'll see the full compressor wheel and the the inside of the housing and will be able to verify if its been rubbing or taken any damage.

Even at 1,200*F EGT's you got to be careful when you hauling weigh and/or trailer the coolant temps will rise very rapidily on you going up grade 6-7% so like THRacing mention I would highly suggest the gauges before towing and keep an eye all your gauges. Like myself I use 1,200*F limit on EGT's and drop a gear if the EGT's rising yet. So when you drop a gear and kick it back up to 2K on the tach it will be more torque but less heat produced so both coolant and EGT's should fall.

Typically most just buy Walmart Supertech Outboard 2 Cycle Oil. But I've used a lot of different 2 cycle oils snowmobile, outboard, chainsaw, etc... PenzOil, Supertech, Quaker State, Yamalube, Sthl, Valvoline, Phillips 66, etc... The only thing I won't suggest using is synthetics... The PPD (Pour point depressant) is used in petroluem products but since synthetic oils don't have parafin wax it doesn't have a PPD added so it will not help/aid in gelling... Cold country up here seeing 0*F in the morning is enough to make you consider your fuel and additives closely.

I remember long ago (10 year ago) when I went to purchase my beast. They rolled the truck into the show room floor and showed it off to me. The interior, exterior, dealer options, etc. I never forget how freaked out I was about driving it home. Beautiful truck and I bought my first truck. I was a proud owner of a Dodge Cummins. Well I got to admit now she is a bit rough around the edges and got little dents, dings and scratches etc. I'm more comfortable with my "Used" truck than a new truck. I'm not in the mode of going the long haul...Now I will admit that is a beautiful truck and well traking careful in storage but still even with next to zero miles it not worth dealer price any longer. The other problem is all the rubber on the engine is degrading as it sits so it will start leaking oils and lubes shortly. Just a fact of nature.

So do I... Little single action 6 shooter with .22 magnum or .22 long..

Hmmm. Now my shot at you ISX... Ok so how about CajFlynn idling for several hours sleeping in the cab with the heater going no exhaust brake?But I got to disagree with the wear factor of high idle function and exhaust brake. The coolant temperature is rising at a fairly rapid pace so within about 3-5 minutes its already like 100-120*F in coolant temp so the oil temperature has to be following close behind as well so the wear factor can't be worse with exhaust brake and high idle. The fact the metal are warming up very fast and the tight tolerances are loosening up rapidily compared to just idling at 250*F at 0*F outside morning... So without the high idle and exhaust brake you could virtually hang at below 100*F of coolant temp for more than 20-30 minutes.But as for MPG and efficency its best to start and get rolling. Just using high idle function and exhaust brake can flow some serious fuel over a short period of time I've measured upwards of 6-10 GPH just using the high idle function with exhaust brake so this fuel is now lost and there is no miles to account for it. So to agree with ISX from the MPG efficency stand point its best to start, idle for about 30-60 seconds and get rolling. But as for the wear stand point I'm going to have to disagree... at least from my point of view... (Discussion turn over ot the next person that post)