Mopar1973Man

Mine's bigger...

Size is not going to matter much... What matters is the CCA you get and how you maintain your batteries and cables. When I got 10 years from stock batteries and cable and still had no real problems. So cramming a larger battery in really isn't going to gain you much. 2 ways to look at batteries "Amp Hours" and "Cold Cranking Amps"...Amp Hours is typically a measurement for RV or house batteries in how much power a battery can supply for a period of time. Cold Cranking Amps is how many amps the battery is capable of producing at 0*F... Also remember if you buy a 750 CCA batteries that number doubles because the way they are wired in paralell. So you would have 1,500 CCA... Like my cheap WalMart Batteries are 875 CCA so I've got 1,750 CCA. It all about how much power you got on a cold morning to twist the truck over.So even though you might cramp a group 31 it might only be 600 CCA... But who knows... :shrug:Then as for sealed batteries I'm not fond of them at all. There is no way to add distilled water back into the batteries. Like Optimas etc... So no matter what a battery will get gassy at one point or another and vent moisture it part of the life of a battery. That fact will never change no matter how much technology they throw at it. Every time you discharge a battery fairly deep and then allow the truck alternator to charge it again think about it 120 Amp of charging power it going to get gassy for sure.

I'm willing to try that... Thank you for the suggestion!

Mom and I are both like this. When we both feel that way we tend to listen to each other. But I'm typically the bold person of the family that dives out in an any kind of weather and tackles anything. But I've also been a stickler to make sure all my vehicles had a outside temp gauge. Anytime that temp falls below 35-37*F my speed is instantly reduced most likely way below speed limit posted. The temp gauge in my truck has a programmable alarm that I can set to alert me of ice. Idaho state does NOT have a minimum speed limit. So you may drive as slow as you wish. But Idaho does give out fines for sliding off the pavement. If you driving along a road say at 30-35 MPH the posted speed limit is 65 MPH and you slide off the pavement. It your fault for driving too fast for road conditions. So if you got to drive 25 MPH due to the road conditions - do it. People have this concept of if it post 65 MPH you got to drive that fast in the winter time. Another reason I own a manual transmission because it gives me percise control of torque and driving force. If the tires slip I can clutch in and allow the drivetrain to match the road again. Also I can force a high gear and hold a low RPM for traveling slick patches (low TQ). Where a automatic trans tend to bounce back and forth and if it shift harsh enough it could start a slide action. This especial helpful in climbing steep single lane canyon roads. Maybe it because every winter I take the trucks down to a very large pull out and play in the ice and snow to get that feel for slip and sliding so when it does occur it never spooks me. Like I said I very rarely ever use 4WD in the winter time. Never use chains either... 4WD to me is a safety fall back. If I got to engage 4WD driving on winter roads then I should consider going home because I don't belong there and I'm now pushing the safety limits. Remember I live where there is NO cell service, tow truck is at least 2 hours away, and winter temp can be as low as -20*F.

Basically what I was doing... I'd have a straight cut piece and a 45* (with the miter box) cut piece and measure for which I needed.. What amazed me was I had very little mistakes and consumed basically everything. Even small scrap piece found a home some where.

Some how the water seperator isn't doing its job or the the fuel has way too much water in it... That's the only way the overflow valve would become rusty.EDIT: Paying attention now I see you got a AirDog 100... Are you using the the stock filter also or not? Did you upgrade the water seperator?

Heck it might be as easy a just changing out a TQ Conv and a flexplate... For all you know the rattling noise could be the torque converter coming loose on the flexplate or the flex plate cracked. (Random guess)

Loose connection... something isn't tight...

Try going over to www.vulcanperformance.com he's got everything...

You know I had to give you a raft of crap...

ISX being scientific here with calculation and excel sheet... I just laid the foam down cut through it at 45* angle measure the short side of the pipe. If I was just a tad long the foam would compress for 1/8" to 1/4" screw up that are long.

You must of installed it wrong... :shrug:I run all the way down to near empty without issues...

Intermittant short or open circuit...

You might reconsider where your buying fuel at... Then you might make sure your running a quality fuel filter with water seperating qualities... Some of the cheap part store filters are just paper so they will pass water...

If you need a noise filter then you got a alternator / ground issues... Remember most of these truck ran for 10 years now without this stuff and now it needs a filter... Something has failed. Don't cover it up with filter, extra ground or wiring mods...

That's the thing I know the bathroom happens to be the coldest room in my RV plus like you mention about freeze ups I've bee there done that with my old Dodge Jamboree. Needless to say I don't wan't to repeat that either. But like my orignal post I do see a conciderable waste of water trying to get hot water bathroom since its the longest run.

Just as bad here... 987 Miles and 16 hours... http://maps.google.com/maps?saddr=5525+highway+95,+New+Meadows,+ID&daddr=Bismarck,+ND&hl=en&sll=46.808327,-100.783739&sspn=0.181408,0.445976&geocode=FVFTsgIdoOoQ-SmD8YkE3eqmVDFpZd-f1YC6Mw%3BFQc9ygIdhSn--Slj6dhXEoPXUjGTyrv5Er2qzA&mra=ls&t=h&z=6

Now that is something worth looking into... Wow! Trailer supplies! I have to bookmark this!

My bathroom pipe were a absolute PITA to do... I have to pull lines loose just to gain enough room to push the foam on then fought to hook lines back up bacause now the foam is holding up space. But got it done...

Ummm... Mine is not a full time home... Its a RV (Recreational Vehicle)... But yes... That is another way of doing it if you going to be in once place for a long time.

Wild & Free started a new thread about a 911 Forum to hopefully continue this kind of aid! http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/5428-Possibility-of-a-911-help-forum

Yeap the guys are right... :smart:Vulcan Performance sells the Push Loc Tees that have a 1/8" NPT hole or you can get the JIC fitting with a tapped 1/8 NPT port. You cohice.But you want you gauge away from the water hammer source (VP44) and protected with a needle valve (suggested) or snubber.

Here is the article about air pockets and water hammer... http://www.siouxchief.com/Resource_/ProductMedia/133/Water%20Hammer%20FAQ%204-04.pdf As for the snubber fittings a lot of people buy them but since they are not adjustable gauge failure seems to still occur. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATM-3279/ As for the isolators I think part of the failure problem is the isolator is trying translate the water hammer pulse and it phyiscally wears out the isolator till if fails. Another form of isolator failure you won't see but have to check for is the diaphragm/piston leakage where fuel is on both side and the seperation of fuel / anti-freeze is no longer.

I'm also glad that other members dove in with both feet to your aid... I hope to keep seeing more and more of this as time goes on. Roadrunner I'm glad your back up and runinng... I would contact AirDog about the pump.Thank you Wild & Free (Bill) for your efforts...

I know there is a few of you that might use your RV's through the winter time or just in cold temperatures. Like myself I wanted to keep propane bills low as possible, save water by not having to warm the pipe up again, and just prevent freezing if used in cold temps.So I went down to the local hardware store (C & M Lumber) and picked up several lengths of foam pipe insulation for the RV. You want to look for the insulation that has adhesive on the split part also RV you want 1/2" pipe insulation. It a pretty basic install cut cut to fit, slide the foam over the pipe, pull the cover tape and stick together.Now when it comes to cutting corners it will take some practice of cutting 45* angles and getting them to fit properly.