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Mopar1973Man

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Everything posted by Mopar1973Man

  1. Ol' CajFlynn has gotten 300K miles out of a mild moded auto tranny...
  2. Here is the list of rebuilder I know that have all the tooling... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/247-bosch-certified-vp44-injection-pump-rebuilders Now don't let this sway you from using a vendor but make sure to ask the vendor who he's getting the pump from and about warranty. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=V0Q8qQ2UKRI So as you can see all pump must be tested for a long series of test and pass every test before the PSG is even gets flashed with new software. So the idea of just rebuilding a pump and it missing the test bench is not going to happen nor is a weak or failing PSG computer going to make it past the test bench. Killing myths one at time...
  3. Wow! You got some work ahead of you...As for #1 check all the driver line but also deal with the bearings if there is play it time to change... Unless you got old school cone bearing you can repack. Which I think you got...#2 That will change with season, oil, temperature, etc... Mine is even know to blow a cloud out quite a distance on cold days. If you worried about it do a compression test to see if there is any problems. Don't both with a blow by test... Oh think of that double check vacuum hose it might produce this effect if the vacuum pump is left open.#3 I think you should have a 47RH trans... 727 is a 3 speed which I don't think came out in your year...#4 As fore the gauge this most likely why the trans might not work either. I know the PCM is behind the driver side battery and to controls the dash and every thing. You might check over the wiring make sure the connection are good and not corroded...#5 Ok there is another compurt behind the glove box for the ABS and other stuff if its unplugged the delay wipers might not work. Also it might be the multifunction switch is just wore out...
  4. Or the hose got soft and mushy and now folding over in the wind...
  5. Ummm... I'm always pre-load the system with the heater hose off till the coolant comes out... Then hook up the hose...
  6. Whats the code?Possible bad ground at the lift pump which is hidden behind the starter. This requires to remove the starter to service this ground. (At least on the 02 dodge).Possibly a bad lift pump with a heavy load that is pulling the voltage odwn on that circuit because of mechanical problems internally.
  7. Crankcase vent plugged up? :shrug:Did the hose freeze shut on you causing the crankcase pressure to build up.
  8. Talk to the vendors here I'm sure someone can get you a good deal...
  9. I'll have to take a peek down in my junk pile I might just have some... I've got to get another SATA cord too. So while I'm down there I'll check and see what I've got...
  10. The reason idling doesn't count is that there is a coolant passage within inches of the IAT sensor and when its idling the air flow is low so the coolant will heat the air up. But while your rolling and driving the air flow is higher and the cooler air will not heat as fast so the reading will be much lower.
  11. Brown man showed up today with a box... I'm going off the air for a bit to install this tonight... Both... There is 3 phyiscal drives... But primary drive is partitioned out... Soon to change...
  12. I had to go up and rate the thread excellent... Wow! You did a awesome job cutting that pump open to see the guts... More! I want to see more videos...
  13. Idling doesn't count it will always warm the manifold up while idling... Like also if I use my exhaust brake I can get some really high temps too...
  14. It more of finding what makes the better MPG than the most HP/TQ... I know with each and every truck seem to be a bit different in what it likes. So it more of a matter of monitoring the IAT temps and seeing which temp nets you the highest MPG value. Since we know you truck most likely is not going to run 1/4 miles track it going to be a daily driver right? So MPG value is going to the number to chase not the HP/TQ number. As for the rest of the system of the tube, filter, etc... There is a lot of claims of flow and such but once again you not running track so your air flows will be much less and short burst for WOT. Like my typically driving I see about 2-5 PSI of boost. I'm capable of 35 PSI but rarely need it even towing.
  15. The lift pump has no relay... It's directly feed by the ECM... Pin 45 of the ECM stright out to the Lift pump...
  16. But there is missed problem with cold air intakes...In any case cold air intake do bring in cold air to the engine but how cold do you really need it? Like I'm up here in Idaho and can pull my manifold temp well into the +20*F bracket on a -25*F day. I find that temps below 100*F (or 60*F weather) in the maniold tend to hurt MPG. Colder the air becomes the harder and later the fuel ignities hence why on the VP44 truck the engine rattle heavily in the cold morning because the ECM kick the advancement way up to compensate for the cold and latency of ignition.Like I found out after 2 years of studying the IAT sensor and its function... You want warmer air to promote ignition of the fuel for better MPG's. Also if you running a box like Edge or Quadzilla you'll get more timing with warmer manifold temps hence better MPG's (Confirmed from Quadzilla Techs).Like myself my IAT is permanently fixed 143*F and my MPG's are roughly 20 MPG even with winterized fuels, temps as low as 0*F to 10*F above. Also I'm running a winter front trapping warm engine heat under the hood for the BHAF to draw in. Give about a +10*F gain on the IAT temps in the manifold vs. without a winter front.Winter weather no longer has a effect on my MPG number any longer...
  17. I find that I've got to really tighten 1, 3, 4 more than typically to stop the drooling on the manifold. :whistle:So I'm not a exception to the problem but found the magic to keeping them from leaking. But after you tighten them you might find the bleed for a day or so and then stop.
  18. I think it come do to quality of the mixture. Place like Chevron fuel tends to measure out proper amounts of additives. Where Mom and pop fuels (generic) tend to be a bit more sloppy about it maybe adding more ethanol to it hence why its cheaper.
  19. Ok... Now compare the IAT temps to ECT temp in the morning with a cold start... Both numbers should be exactly the same if not then the IAT most likely is failed. Yes the IAT sensor will fail within specs at time and throw a weird high temp.
  20. It should be +40 over outside temperature roughly.
  21. Like out here there is several station with big banner saying "No Ethanol In Our Fuel"... :rolleyes:What I'm finding out they actually do have it the fuel and sometimes high quanities. Like the local chainsaw shop warned me about the local fuel station claiming this and how many fuel related failure he's had on chainsaws. So like he told me if you want to say safe use a name brand fuel like Chevron but don't use the Mom and Pop places with may or may not have the a banner out there advertising "No Ethanol".Gasoline wise I keep about 20-25 gallons around the house for ATV, lawn mower, generators, etc. But never had a problem with fuel getting funky. I guess because I'll only buy Chevron fuels.
  22. No back feed will occur with this setup... But your an Auto so you modify your trigger a bit differently...
  23. All I used for mounting was a couple of chunks of angle stock and use 2 bolts from the pumpkin then used standard old tractor rubber buckets. As for the switch the manual only has the reverse switch on the shift tower. So in your case your going to have to tap into the reverse light lead and supply power to the lead. I also used a relay in setup to keep the bulb load off the reverse lights (stock) but pulled power from the trailer (+12V) lead.
  24. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/190-p0500-no-vehicle-speed-sensor-signal This is not a MAP sensor issue this is a wastegate issue! http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/165-p0234-turbo-boost-limit-exceeded Got a problem with the network you might try using another OBDII reader...

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