Mopar1973Man

I would settle out the fuel and pump out the top 90% of it out of a 5 gallon buckets. But remember if it is algae problems the fuel is technically contaminated. But I agree with Wild and Free its best to clean the tank really good and start over. While your at it I would blow solvent through the fuel lines too... Make sure there is no other gunk floating around. Then monitor the filter housing... Sample some of the fuel in a clear bottle or such and see if anything shows up.

Yes Sir the password is correct...

Well technically the bolt will be pressurized after the engine is running so as long as the bolt is not leaking while the engine is running I'm going to have to say no. But now all the fuel lines rearward of the lift pump would be suction lines and can leak without warning. Because the air will leak into the line draining it back to the tank.

RAR file is a compressed file like ZIP but with better protection than ZIP. Hence why you need to download the WinRAR program to unpack said file. When the WinRAR is running and it ask ot access the RAR file it will ask for a password. www.mopar1973man.com Then the PDF document will appear and be readable. A while back I was just zipping the files and storing on the site for people to download. Then the file would get damaged or altered in a short period of time... So got tried of checking, downloading, uploading a new copy, etc... So now with the RAR files with password locked and non-standard compression I've not had a issue since! So sorry for the inconvenance...

Apparently you do have a air leak some where. If you have to prime the system that many times. Where is the question?

Right on the bottom of the page... Or from the download area again... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=224 <- 32 Bit version Win RAR http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=225 <- 64 Bit Version WinRAR

Go here... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=189

OMG...

Doubtful... I would double check your HVAC work again to be sure you didn't pinch a wire while installing the box.

I can give you this much... ScanGauge II uses 2 numbers. MPH and GPH to figure MPG. 55 MPH / 2.80 GPH = 19.6 MPGSo some how Dodge has made a overly complex algorithm for figure out GPH. From rail pressure, RPM, etc.

Don't sweat it... I do it all the time... :banghead:

I would set it back up again and put some tension on the bolts again then smack the plate with a hammer to see if the jarring action might free it.

Sniff, sob... Thanks... That pulled at my heart strings a bit... I'm glad you think of it that way I'm glad I can bring this group of people together into one big happy family. Is there anything the family here can possibly do to help you out?

It basically states that the J1850 bus is shorted to ground. To check all the wiring for damage... From what I can see about the wiring its not like the 2nd Gens with twisted pairs but the 3rd Gens are all single wire networks. They don't have a set color for either the best I can give is all modules have a VIOlet / (some color). It could be violet/yellow (instrument cluster), Violet/Blue (Transfer Case), Violet/Black (Anti-lock brakes), Violet/White (secuirty System), Violet/Brown (Powertrain Control Module), Violet/Light Green (Heater controls) ... All these wire join together and go to the OBDII port under the dash as a light blue/violet and go to pin #2 in the port.

Ok... I can confirm that will burn the carbon off for sure. Like old lawm mower engine and snowmobiles with carbon fouled plugs I use to just pull out a propane torch and burn the carbon off then re-install the plugs and fire up the engine. So the same thing should hold true.

I've been following along with this... I'm still borthered by the color of the filter housing I really do wonder if some added a batch of waste engine oil just once. It would possibly explain where the metals came from. The only other though would to drop the fuel tank and inspect the tank for more debris and that would answer the metal problem.I know ISX is the guru of 12V and you great man helping you...

Dang that is a pretty steep cut and deep... :stuned:I really do want go for a ride with you now...

Same theroy as the DPF on 4th Gen trucks... All that happen to the DPF is the pores of the media get plugged up with carbon. So now Cummins adds a extra injection event (Regen Mode) dumping fuel in during the exhaust stroke getting the EGT's above 1,000*F and burns the carbon out of the media of the DPF. Carbon will burn at about 1,000*F. At least according to Cummins Service Manual for 4th Gens...

Once you get to about +75 HP (and above) injector then the MPG are neutral again from stock so now the duration is too short and atomization is poor. I'm not saying this is the case with everyone just saying general rule here...

Supposedly on the 1st Gen's it possible to rupture a injector line with a VE pump turned up too far. I've never seen it but heard of such happening. If its true or not I'm not sure.

Local salvage yard?

I just gat back from a 3 day stay in Emmett, ID with the Jayco... Trust me pulling over 6% grades and watching the pyro hover at 1,100*F to 1,200*F for 5 miles. I'm sure mine are absolutely cooked clean.I'm glad the injectors helped out in the MPG dept...

Try RockAuto.Com... www.rockauto.com Check over in the Vendors forum for a discount code...

Basically pressure and timing that it comes down too... Because duration is a factor of injector size so larger injectors have a shorter duration with the same pressure. Of course reverse than and have a stock or smaller injector and it takes a longer duration to inject the same amount of pressure. Because the injectors open up after 4,500 PSI roughly and start injecting fuel till the pressure falls below 4,500 again. To be real about it the pressure actually goes up and down on the injectors (called chattering)...What am I saying here... :banghead:

Added to the list.