Mopar1973Man

Here is a few threads on UltraGauge... (Watch there are some just because of signatures) https://www.google.com/search?q=ultragauge&sitesearch=forum.mopar1973man.com

Actually the modern charging system is exactly the same as back then except there is a few changes. The alternator puts out much more amperage and the voltage regulator is part of the PCM now with a battery temp sensor to prevent batteries from getting gassy.But if you want to convert back to old school just got to unhook the PCM and hook up a old school regulator on the firewall to the alternator.But the reason why the amp meter was removed is because of the extreme high amperage the alternators now produce. Back in the day it was like 45-60 Amps was standard now we are up to 120 Amps and more.

That's why the truck is idling and the rubber hose is used. The hose is not going to hurt the blades but its enough to stop the fan from turning so you can check and see if the fan clutch is actually unlocking. If the fan is stuck locked it will not slow down and you'll know its time. I've found 1 fan clutch on a 92 Dodge this way and it was lock solid.

Crack sensor / Cam sensor? Not seeing RPM to tell the PCM to flip on the ground for the field.

For a extra $10 bucks... www.scangauge.com ScanGauge II has a USB cord upgrade coming... http://www.pureenergysystems.com/store/ScanGauge/USB.htm But I would lean towards this one because its does live data from the computer. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Actron-OBD-II-Autoscanner-plus-tool-for-1996-and-newer-vehicles-bilingual/_/N-25iq?itemIdentifier=897608&_requestid=39561

Codes and fuel pressure is a good starting place to double check the fuel system condition. But as for the miss at idle seem like dirty injectors possibly. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/62-injector-cleaning

Run one or the other but don't mix additives... 2 Cycle Oil tend to go against most other additives and don't mix well... 2 cycle oil is a cetane booster, BTU increaser. Where other additives are cetane increaser and BTU reducer... Take a look at the ASTM testing labs grade scale and you'll see anytime you increase cetane the BTU's are reduced. Also point of reference is unleaded gasoline is about 120K BTU's...

On cold mornings the oil inside the fan clutch is super thick and tends to act like the fan is locked but after a short distance of getting a bit of R's behind the fan clutch it will unlock. Totally normal and I even see the same thing so the first range of gears I normally hear the fan drop out and unlock.But you'll have this...

:spend:Yeah I know with the economy they way it is I know its tough... But I just can't see throwing a few hundred at a cheaper pump when you can throw just a bit more for a pump that should last.

Welcome to the family Randy...As for the power steering fluid it most likely time to be changed... Every 30K miles... If it dark colored its due...

With age comes leaks... The only thing on the drivers side of the engine is the cam cover or tappet cover or vacuum pump. http://www.fixinrams.com/id21.html

AirDog / Raptor or FASS... But I don't suggest factory mounted pump of either type because it does nothing to fix the small plumbing and no pump is designed to suck fuel than far.

Give Eric a call at Vulcan Performance and ask him doe the old school push loc connectors... Looks like the connector on my AirDog. When Airdog/Raptor switch over to the quick connectors it made installation quicker and easier... But as for making a air tight seal it didn't...

It's the fueling mods that blacken the oil so fast. I was like everone else as long I was strictly stock I keep clean oil for a long time. Now with RV275's and Edge comp on 5x5 all the time... It's like pen ink in a few hundred miles. But like I've been told a million time its not about the color of the oil.

Good clean spot and no acid and no corrosion...

My AirDog 150 as comes with a relay, fuse, etc... Allow you to hook up the pump without putting the load of the pump on the ECM... Please don't wire it to the batteries either. There is a nice mounting stud in the the PDC box where you can hook up everything...

Really common for a suction line to be dry even though its leaking air. So during running it will suck air into the fuel and make it foamy. But then shut down the engine the fitting continues to leak air into the line and drain the fuel back to the tank. The only time these kind of leaks show up is when you pressurize the fuel tank by using a blow gun and packing a rag around the blow gun. Just get about 1-2 PSI and you see the leak for sure then because now it will turn damp and can really make it stand out by using baby powder on all the joints. Tight is good but you don't need to be yanking on the wrench too much. The fittings are usually are 18 ft/lbs for the banjo fittings...

You got to remember the owner manual specifies 7.5K miles to oil change anything before that is a waste... CajFlynn was changing every 20K miles I'm not sure what he's changing at now...

Ok... Lift pump is 50% duty cycle during cranking. So 11 PSI sounds about right... But the voltage might be low causing weird things to happen you might load test the batteries and see what happens...

Lucky... Mine looks like pen ink with in about 500-1000 miles... Don't help with RV275 injectors and Edge Comp on 5x5...

I should grab my scanner out of the other pickup and listen to the chaos here in the canyon... Actually people are good out here. While I was out plowing the yard I seen traffic driving slowly (25-35 MPH) roughly being cautious. But now see the logging truck they are just flat humping tail to get to the mill. They get paid by the load and the local cops know they speed to make the money. But other than then our weather now shifted to the rain now... It 37*F as of right now and raining... Smokey Boulder highway cam... http://lb.511.idaho.gov/idlb/cameras/camera.jsf?id=27&view=state&text=m&textOnly=false Here is the Idaho 511 page... http://511.idaho.gov/

Fuel pressure? :shrug:Cranking fuel pressure?

Wild and free would know the answers on the bands and such... But as for the gasket I would replace it... Most of the time when you buy a filter it comes with gaskets...

Your going to end up pulling the head for sure... Mosty likely got a melted piston... 100 PSI is just way too low... Not to mention the other 5 being 300 PSI is rather low too. So You going to need to open it up and see what damages you got... No other need for any other test you just need to pop that head off.

IOD is in the drive side dash fuse panel. Fuse #12 One with the black clip...