Mopar1973Man

Quick and to the point... Pressure fall is typically fuel restriction... (Filter, plumbing, fitting, etc)

Not to side track but you need to wash the salt off... :duh:I don't run air bags... I've never found a reason to run them yet... I rarely sit down even on the overloads...

It would be best to get a actually inch pound bar rated for that span. Like I've got a simple Harbor Frieght 1/4" drive inch pound bar for that reason. What you'll find out is that trying to use a torque at the very low end of the measurement its very difficult to feel the click. I tried this with my 3/8" driver and nearly impossible to feel it.DAP has been really good with prices for me... But shop around you never know when someone else might have a blow out sale...

Well the simple fact is after installing and priming the fuel system your going to have air in the system (stumble) it best to go out and drive it for several miles to work the air out. Like a injector job I did a few weeks ago. I clean the injector drove it for a few miles ran great idled smooth. But next morning rough and missy. High idle for a few second to see I could clear it... Nope... But after it was driven it was fine again. Owner never had any issues with it since... So air bubbles may be a bit tricky to get out...

I agree... Diesel are not designed to be free rev'ed... I work mine for hours towing, hauling or just driving at 1,500- 2,000 RPM typically. Got to remember all the parts in a diesel are much heavier and are not designed for high R's (at least in stock form).

This is a good one for ISX to answer...

In 10 years of owning my Cummins I've only seen the WIF light once... I use to check and drain the water seperator all the time but now I only check it at oil change time... Might find 1/4 ounce a water every 10K miles... But I'm really picky of the the places I purchase fuel from and also get to know the fuel station owner really well. I find out what filters he's using on the pumps, is he re-addizing the fuel (winterizied), how often he changes filters etc. Water is very low priorty compared to lubricity... You got to remember Dorkweed here is the man that started the 2 cycle oil craze... I'm the one that backed him up and kicked it home...

Actually I suggest against mixing products! DieselKleen is a solvent based injector cleaner and cetane booster. Then 2 cycle oil is a lubricant and cetane reducer. So you just neturalizing out the 2 products and coming out empty handed. Power Service Diesel Kleen scored very poorly in the HFRR test at 575 HFRR (only +60 gain). But 2 cycle oil socre really good at 474 HFRR (+162 Gain). Now take a sample of the PowerService and leave it out exposed to the air for a few day and tell me what you get? Do the same with 2 cycle oil and compare. The results will shock you!

Here's your smiley...

The only things that seem to fail... [*]Front speed sensors [*]Rear Speed sensor [*]Antilock Brake Computer So if the front speed sensors fail then the speedometer typically will work fine but requires both to be replace at once. If the rear speed sensor is bad you get a wonky speedometer that may or may not work. If the computer fails typically the ABS pump motor runs continueous...

Enuf Said!

Speed sensor going bad most likely... Here is more information on diagnosing this problem. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/23-brake-system/29-antilock-braking-system-abs If the speedometer is working properly then it most likely the front speed sensors going bad.

I've also got the extreme heat here in Idaho. Riggins, ID can reach 110-120*F in the summer time. But now toss in the extreme cold of heading towards New Meadows, ID and seeing -25*F... As for the Optimas the down fall is the loss of electrolyte from the cells once they dry out they are done. This is a down fall to any sealed / maintenance free batteries. Like my lawn tractor has so called sealed maintenance free battery. I peeled the label off that said "Maintenance Free" and under it was plastic plugs. Carefully I managed to lift all 6 plugs out to find the electrolyte level was down where you could see the top of the plates which explained way the batter was weak. So now adding distilled water to it and charged it back up for 24 hours on a 2 amp charge and she good as new again. Heck even my house batteries lasted 15 years... (Good ol' maintenance batteries are wonderful!)

Got you covered with a video and a article... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/27-hvac-heating-ventalation-and-air-conditioning/57-air-conditioning-evaporator-core-heater-core-replacement http-~~-//youtu.be/ghDbhJDBvkc

Welcome to the family... There is at least 1 member here that passed the 1 million mark with a 2001 Dodge... So hang around and learn from the other family members here.

Just looked at the FSM for the steering column and it doesn't seem to show any internal structure of the column. Just more or less the steering wheel, clock spring, multi-function switch, etc. But nothing internal...

:lmao2:"Who's Obama??"

By the sounds of it I still say look at the torque converter flexplate... Since is so random...If its internal (gears) it most likely would been doing it all the time... Also the fluid would tell you by the amount of debris in the pan.

Sound like the head is coming off soon...

Like a 93 truck I've got coming back to me with a minor injector leakage. Most likely the same thing... When I did the injector cleaning basic remove and install process but most likely got a crumb of dirt on one of the high pressure tubes... :rolleyes:Warranty work...

Welcome to the Family!

... and here is your sign!

Might look them up and see what the specs are...

Pine, Spruce, Alpine Fir, Red Fir, White Fir, Tamarack (Larch), Lodge Pole Pin... All Soft wood... Where else would they live? With you??? Screamin' Beavers don't like lumber... It's the beauty of watching the tree fall... Well... He's right I've heard of firewood thieves here even... But I've go no room to talk mine is right in the driveway...

Yeah I was just there today and seen it... Looks good! Sounds awesome... The cab sound isn't bad just at a idle or a light rev. More to come I'll be bringing my video camera with me down to the dyno event... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/5180-IDAHO-Spring-DYNO-DAY-29-MM-Saturday-March-17th-2012 Source... http://idahoturbodiesels.com/vb/showthread.php?t=9003