Mopar1973Man

Video wanted...

My numbers above are within a unheated garage at about 32-35*F. This goes to show you that just getting the vehicle in out of the blowing wind can make a difference in the performance of the block heater. Because of the amount of coolant and cast iron your heating just makes since to get it out of the wind if possible.

Yes you want to trick the wastegate but blocking the air from reaching the wastegate and then having a very tiny small hole on the wastegate side of the valve so it can still biuld pressure but has a hard time doing it.

Usually printed on the outside of the fleetguard can is 3/4 of a turn after contact is made... :wink:But in your spot I would be leery of the filter nipple...

Someone else enjoying the idea of of my bright backup lights. Now you got to add a bypass switch and then your all set for hitching trailers in the dark of the night... Hex is right shrink tube and solder are your friend...

From that page... Then you can step over to the OBD page and test it out... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes

Hmmm... Diesel Auto Power TH Racing KT Performance FTE Diesel And many more... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/mopar1973mans-dealer-contacts/12-dealers--vendors Any of the vendors here are good choices... Just a matter of prices... I'm sure any of these vendors will stand behind there product they sell you! Note to self... Update the vendor list...

That threaded stub should be replaceable... Someone else would have to comfirm it though...

Odd... Must be a 3rd Gen issue... ScanGauge works on the 24V 2nd Gens no issues here except you got to shut the engine down and turn the key to ON then you can clear codes.

Other than Lucas test poorly in the HFRR testing... Bosch requires 450 HFRR or less for good performance... Lucas scored 641 HFRR http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/68-hfrr-testing-of-common-diesel-fuel-additives 2 cycle Oil scored 474 HFRR (200:1 ratio) I know 128:1 ratio is much lower more like 380-400 HFRR.

I got it for ya... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/49-fuel-pressure-specification-for-bosch-vp44-injection-pumps I should break it out into its own article...

From what I see it looks ok... Magnets don't have chunks on them...:rolleyes:How about the rest of ya...

Might be worth just reposting them... Just leave them orginal size...

Could you post a link of what you looking at... Maybe a picture of what your working with... I'm at least curious... That's nothing...

Here is one... http://www.blackstone-labs.com/

Geez... :duh:Now hopefully you don't have any more problems...

Make sure your CAPS lock is not on...

Well after quick phone call with Michael we now have a ISSPRO tech for the site... :hyper:Welcome to the family... Once again if there is anything I can fo you let me know...

Oil pan and pickup tube have to come off first... While you got the engine up pul the engine mounts off too makes it a bit easier I hear...ISX has pulled his 12V out and put it back out in a weekend fairly easy...

Also remember where we came from in oil design... Back in the 70's engine oils where really basic and didn't have much of a additive package. http://www.upmpg.com/motor_oil_rate_gas.htm As the additive packages improved over the years and design of engine oils the change internvals have been extended more and more over the years. I know old habits die hard but I use the factory specs as a safe point. So like 24V's are safe to run 7,500 miles by design. Even the 96 is 6K to a oil change... Then my 83 Goldwing 1100I is even 6K to a oil change... The only vehicle I got that is a super early change in my 08 Honda Rancher at 600 miles...

Its not a 4-5 quart gasoline engine where the fuel adds acids and other by products to the oil that cause damage. You got to remember its a diesel with 3 gallons (11-12 quarts) of oil. It takes a long time to use that amount of oil up... There is a old post here where Dorkweed ran his truck for 87K miles on a single oil change on Supertech 15w-40 and did oil test every 7K miles... It wasn't till 87K the silicon level started to rise and the oil was changed. Then there is CajFlynn here that changes ~20K miles for a oil change when he clears 1,000 miles a day and that means he would be doing weekly oil changes. His truck is run on fleetguard filters and Delo 15w-40 and cleared the million mile mark no problem. So this 3-5K oil changes are a waste of oil and money...

Mine is a true mechanical gauge showing real time pressure. Electric gauge might just leave the needle laying on the last position when the key is shut off.

Make sure to take the time and ask questions...

Here is a little vid on it... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=M33ZCc8b-7Q

This little program works great for managing your maintenance... http://www.lonewolf-software.com/automotivewolf.htm