Mopar1973Man

There was a guy on CumminsForum that was doing the very same thing figure out how to program the ECM using ROMRaider Software and a homemade cord. He managed to disable the TQ Man and change the fueling tables for the most part without the use of Cummins Insite software. I know its possible but its frustrating that there isn't smoething like EFI Live out for the Cummins. I know both Smarty and EFI are working towards a release but...

10K oil and fleetgaurd filter... But 5K frantz filter change.

Lad79der (Matt) here is from another forum... You guys want to peek at his site... http://www.dogandtrailer.com Welcome to the family Matt...

Later on I'll have to take a pic of my guest house stove and put it on the site... Small fan force wood stove installed in the fireplace... I mean tiny house.

Just need to ditch the grease gun hose... Use a needle valve to dampen the pulses... Like both of us we got rubber hose in the line and effects the ground plane for electric sender. I had to phyiscally solder a wire to the sender because of the rubber. Now the grease gun hose does absolutely nothing... Its the water hammer that kills gauges not vibration...

As for stoves... Just buy a non EPA stove you'll be much happier. I've got a "Stove That Jack Built" its locally made right here in Idaho for about $1,400 bucks. All heavy duty gauge steel very heavy stove. No smog devices. But it burns very clean! Rarely do I see smoke from the chimey. I've got it down to a science on how many turns to open the air to get my pyrometer right at 800-1000*F constantly. Yes its a true pyrometer that has a probe that enters the stack not a surface thermometer.

It all depends on what the you capable of doing with said software...

That's what we are here for to help each other learn and over come problems... So any new information on the problem?

You want to fall in the 14-20 PSI pressure range while driving. Like my truck I've got about 19 PSI at idle and 17 PSI at WOT. This is a good pressure span and pressure fall. I know the minimum specification is 10 PSI but you have to remember Bosch requires 70% of the fuel to be returned back to the tank for proper cooling and lubing requirements. But if the overflow valve is closed by 10 PSI and open by 14 PSI that mean you've got to keep above 14 PSI to keep the return flow going. Keep it in the green!

As for the transmission line they need to be seperated and protected. If the lines are actual touch they will eventually rub a hole each other. I would look into loosening fittings up a bit and see and swiveling the lines to gain some space or at the worse bending/bowing then a bit to gain the sapce.

AH64ID is right 750w heater can suck up a lot of kwh's of power... :whistle:Since I left the fire dept I don't bother with plugging in at all. The truck is stored in a unheated garage. But Grid heaters is all I need for the first part of the start and then allow high idle to kick in for short time to build just a little temp (around 100*F) and I leave.

You'll have to understand Dripley has been picking on me about my screaming beaver (Chainsaw) since the firewood pics last fall.

No harm in leaving it plugged in. Back when I worked for the fire dept I use to leave mine plugged in all winter for the sole purpose of have the engine warm enough to leave instantly so I could get down the road to the fire house about 1 mile away.

Kind of like mine... I've got enough room for my generator (4kw) and the ATV in my 02 Cummins or just the ATV in the 96 Dodge... But I need the tailgate down on the 96 Dodge because its a shortbox and now since the winch is back on there isn't enough bed...

Problem though... These wolves are not native to the area and were transplanted here...

Well I'll admit they aren't the fastest rig in the shed but it will sure haul the loads. Like I know mine tops out at 56 MPH period goes no faster. But typically it runs about 45-47 MPH with my big tail in the saddle and all the junk in the baskets. But now hitch up my 8x8 trailer behind it it will drag that trailer anywhere you want to go. No joke. Before I added the rear basket I use to use the ATV for a trailer dolly. (Of course I'm not dropping the Jayco on it!) But now I use the 96 dodge for the trailer dolly.

Now you know why everyone in the northwest wants these things killed off. Also that why I normally have a gun on me most of the time...

Geez Thanks...Hopefully I'll get some pics of it out in the forest with my screaming beaver on the back.

I wanted to show off my little ATV...2008 Honda Rancher 4203000# Electric Winch (Wireless Remote Control)Oversized rear basketFront metal basketIt my little yard mule for hauling the firewood to the house and other chores. In the front basket is the 2 black bags. That's all my gloves, beanie, rope, tie straps, MRE, water, toilet paper, etc. I've even got a small bag of tools jammed in the rear bin. Under the front basket I've got a shovel and a pulaski for getting me out of a jam or two...

Check this out guys and gals... Best to stay armed when you out and about in Idaho... http://gothunts.com/wolf-attacks/ Video... http://www.kxly.com/localvideo/index.html?v=27487

Dripley is right on the money... You want to scan the codes, write them down and then clear them. Then take a drive with the vehicle and see if the codes return it might take 5-10 miles of driving to trigger the condition of the code(s). But then the second batch of codes are the real codes that are currently a issue. But the first batch of code you might loo into because in might be loose wire or a wet connector problem...

If there is no problems... P-PCU--------P DoneP-ECU--------P DoneThat is all you'll see. No codes but just p-done twice.But if there is old code(s) they will be stored for 40 warmup cycles... (Not key cycles!)

Now there is a pre filter than is worth making... :wink:I'm still going to get me a piece of fabric and going to make me one...

Seems like our northern brothers and gathering up...

Just got done with this problem on my truck the cable had froze up completely and only 1 brake was working. But cables are really cheap to replace through RockAuto.Com. I paid all of $22 bucks for my passenger side cable. It might be worth looking into replacement of the cables than wondering if the cable going to last... Just checked on RockAuto.Com and yours are ranging from $12 bucks to $25 bucks.