Mopar1973Man

Personally I would just do a drawstraw into the tank and not the sender can. I really don't have the 1/4 tank issue unless I'm driving like I stole it. But if I drive like a human being I can run it down to the empty mark without any problems.Only a quarter (coin) will fit between the tip and the bottom of the tank. Absolutely no no problems here...

I'm not knocking RevMax but the vendor source through EBay. It really hurts to spend big money on parts and have a difficult time dealing with a warranty issues through a Ebay vendor.

Ryan is right... Also the newer filter cans flow more fuel than the old school.

I hate to say it but if it comes from Ebay I'm instantly turned off... I rather buy a quality product from a quality transmssion shop with a warranty than buy from a fly by night vendor on Ebay... Check out some of the vendors here... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/mopar1973mans-dealer-contacts/12-dealers--vendors

Sorry you just left me behind... Automatic trans issues are not my cup of tea... Sorry.

Edge Juice will most likely just read from the MAP sensor...

Does it crank? Bad key switch?

That bolt is a boost bolt for the boost gauge... But there is better ways of doing that like using the pipe plug over by the MAP sensor (3/4")

He doesn't have the 24V collar for our injectors...

Instaled in the test port... So I would assume you need the filter head assembly might be a salavage yard item if you can find it.

Adding more freon make the output air warmer... :duh:The lower the low side pressure the colder the output air becomes. Output temp in theory is the inside ring for R-134a as you can see I marked out the 35-40*F area. (Typo'ed the temps! :banghead:)Back in the day when I recharged R-12 freon on refridgrators typically it was 2-5 PSI on the low side. Then for the old 73 Dodge Charger which was also R-12 I always went for 40 PSI that kept the evaporator from freezing up for down in Cally on humid days.

Correct... Typically I only see 1,500 to 1,600 RPMs normal driving. I need a good slow strong burning fuel the deleivers torque. I rarely see above 2K on the tach.

I do almost the exact thing... I pull a heater hose and fill tilll the heater hose trickles a bit of coolant then hook up the hose and fill the rest of the way.

Why? None of the other trucks needed the fan? (1989-2002)

Boy if I still had a copy of the ASTM labs book on the Cetane rating of diesel it would show you a different story too... Like the one phrase that came from ASTM labs... Right out the ASTM labs books...

Oh well... :shrug:But my setup is working for me... I've got a VP44 with over 146K miles and no problems. Then my MPG's are roughly 20-21 MPG still waiting for warmer weather.So it didn't work in there study big deal... I gave up a long time trying to counter prove why 2 cycle oil works.

Hmmm... I'm a man of many hats... Computer Tech. - Cloud 10 Computers (23 years experience) Custom build computers and servers. Web Site Manager (5 years experience)www.idahoturbodiesels.com www.thedieseltrucksite.com www.tractorfarmandfamily.com www.blevinsrealestate.com www.salmonriverrealty.com Firewood hauler (23 Years experience) Fire Station Captain (6 Years Experience - Quit) Search & Rescue Idaho County (2 Years Experience) Mechanic Gas or Diesel (23 Years Experience)

Luk is the stock clutch in the truck from the factory... So if you got any kind of power mods I would expect it to hold much more. Typically stock clutch is good to about 300-350 HP to the ground then they slip.Most have upgraded to Valair or Southben Con OFE...Like my stock LuK clutch I broke the hub out of it...

Actually there is no seal problem but it might start pushing oil up and out the pipe if left on a slope long enough idling. More or less a gurgling type action the oil would be pushed up from the air pressure till air could pass again. So if you actually got the angle steep enough you still can push oil out but the thing is typically you don't stop on a steep slope like that eaving it idle for long periods. Not safe for the engine at any rate being the oil pickup is at the rear of the engine. More or less get to the slope to flater ground then stop just safer for you and the truck both.

http://www.chemcas.com/msds112/cas/1772/8008-20-6_64742-94-5_91-20-3_25551-13-7_1330-20-7.asp

Simple test... If you leave a sample of fuel additive expose to the air and it changes amount (evaporates) then its not a true lubricant. Leave 2 cycle oil or engine oil expose to the air that amount will never change. I know if you leave power service exposed it turns to a tar like substance very sticky... Not a lubricant...

Close but no cigar... That's oil treatment...

I don't think they could flow enough to satisfy a Cummins requires for a TP main oil filter... Bypass filter is fine with TP but a main filter I would scared to death...

Same occured for me to with the stock breather drain nearly a full gallon of oil over the fan and radiator before I got to level ground. Then had to catch a ride with my friend back off the hill 40 miles to get a full gallon of oil. Since then I travelled nearly 200K on the clock and not had a oil spill since the mod.I've actual considered trying to retro-fit a 12V tappet cover on and see about get rid of the whole vent pipe all together... But never got any answer if the 12V tappet cover would fit right.

Double check the wiring in the OBDII port...