Mopar1973Man

Not bad on the price of the AirDog being I paid $520 for mine brand new. Remember you will not get a warranty with that AirDog being its sold 2nd hand.As for diff fluid I would just use 80w-90 gear lube with fricition modifier added. But if you plan on pulling alot and heavy I would consider 85w-140 instead. Like myself once this supply of 80w-90 goes I'll move up to 85w-140..

No overhead...

Welcome to the family... That phrase I bolded when you convert to miles that roughly 272,000 miles... That's actually very low miles for these trucks when your looking at a lifespan of 1 MILLION miles (1,609,344 kms). One of the family members here is past already and several other are well above 500K miles. Overhead computer is not very accurate at really... You'd have better luck with a ScanGauge II than the overhead... Aso for economy there is lots of thing you can do for economy... Like my truck I'm getting 21-22 MPG hand calc'ed or ScanGauge II But my highest is 25.3 MPG...

Well I took a trip down to Ontario, OR to put fresh rubber on the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 for the first time in 10 years. I desided to take the ScanGauge II for the trip and see if all my tinkering actually helped. I'm proud to report for traveling from New Meadows, ID to Ontario, OR I barely made 17.0 MPG... On normal old 87 octane gasoline. Threw a set of fresh 235/85 R16 to the truck and headed for home with a full load of fuel and groceries... But here is the twist it started raining just as we left Ontario, OR temp fell to about 40-45*F and flooded the highway fairly well. Still pulled 15.3 MPG rolling in the yard. I'm a happy 96 dodge Ram 1500 owner...

Same here the ScanGauge II differs from my cluster speedometer and odometer...

I run up and down washboarded dirt roads with full loads of firewood and got 185K from my first set... My truck gets worked hard offroad and it comes with potholes, washboards, ruts, etc... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KPpyH5Hqi1o http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3025YkVz7gU http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lXob64FYo5I http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXInW5VnOF8

Actually its not a switched lead... As I found out the hard way too that is a constant hot lead. You can add a isolator to that (which I should too). Because if I hitch up my travel trailer and leave the trailer plugged into the truck it will bleed the truck batteries dead too. :duh:What I did is hitch up in a cold day and left the trailer plugged in and flipped on the furance. The furance blower was drawing down all 4 batteries... Truck was a bit weak to start... :whistle:As with now my 12V gauge in the trailer I can see the 14.2 Volts from the alternator when the truck is running. I'm sure if you do some wiring you can upgrade that lead to 10 AWG and then use a RV isolator against that and get the charging power you wish from it. But the #4 pin is not key switched...

:shrug:Isn't your 7 pin trailer plug hooked up with the battery lead from the engine? Like my RV has a 40A charge lead from the trailer plug and will charge up the trailer batteries in no time flat. (Pin #4)

Yes... You should.. I suggest 2 cycle oil but you can look at the HFRR score sheet and choose a low HFRR score additive Bosch requires fuel score of less than 450 to be suitable. Yes... That will meet the requirements... But I would keep a second line or gauge handy for testing the gauge again when the pressure falls isolators fail more often than gauges do... Don't double stack lift pumps you'll distroy the factory lift pump in a short order. It will force the check ball regulator out of the socket internally. I highly suggest you just ditch both pumps and just get a AirDog, FASS, or a Raptor and be done. Only if your fuel pump requires it. Typically the 100 GPH don't but the 150/165 GPH should... Get something that taps the VP44 you'll get better timing curve and better MPG. All other boxes tend to play by the ECM rules. I've been stright piped 3" for the life of the truck and no issues for power, MPG, noise, or towing (egt's). No problem... That what we are here for try and help you learn and get what you want...

Lot of people have internet able phones. But I'm using a older TracFone... :doh:But like me I've got a few phone numbers plugged into the phone of members here on the site. So now I could call a member and hopefully they are at home near a computer and can look up information for me. Now since I'm part of two 911 groups (Mopar1973man.com and IdahoTurboDiesel.com) so I've got a second batch of numbers plugged in as well just to cover my ...

You could move out here... But you might not like the idea of lack of jobs out here... Hmmm... Rough guess about 30 minutes... I could book straight up behind the house and save a bunch of distance but you'll be huff and puffin' by the time you make it to the road. Then you won't want to bother digging with a shovel you'll just go back down the hill and pass out... No machinery... All hand dug with just a normal shovel. I would work about 3-4 hours a shot up there when I had time and then come back down. But the neighbor south of me wants to fire up there water this coming weekend and I knew I was pushing lots of rock and sand down his way. So he waited till I've finished. Sad but true his pickup screen is buried under 2 feet of rock and sand... That was before I even started...

I'm keeping busy around here now with spring here... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oyB4rflR2yI I've been riding the ATV back and forth to dig out the sand and rock debris in the irrigation dam up on the mountain I figured I wanted to show you the trail, and some of the work that I've been busy doing. Oh yeah the water temp is roughly 36-38*F and getting your feet wet sucks.

Correct... That is my theory... I was having problems with my AirDog 150 always getting lower and lower in pressure and then come to find the ball jammed in the coils of the spring and stuck. Pull the ball out and the pressure would automatically rise again till it would wedge itself back in the coils. So I made nearly 1 year now with a oval coil on the spring and no pressure drops.

As for the fuel mileage you might look into testing the injectors and see if they are still performing properly. 125 HP injectors are bit too big for MPG's... Anthing over +75 typically starts to fall in MPG's. Like myself I run +40 RV275's and still keeping 21-22 MPG typically in the summer.

You might go over your electricall and see if there is a loose connection, corroded battery terminals, etc... Remember that both computers (ECM and PCM) rely on the battery cables for ground and power not body ground. So if the cables are bad or grounds are weak it might cause a problem. As for gauge on the dash it responds slowly to changes so it might not show a weak/loose connection but a DVM will if used properly. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/224-p1682-charging-system-voltage-too-low http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/136-voltage-drop-testing-of-wiring-and-feed-cables

Fuel pressure at idle and WOT (@ highway speeds)?And the error codes like ISX is asking...

Yes... I do have big hands... Gorilla Hands...

Even the first generation trucks are better... Geez...

Yea... I'm in Windoze... Between hashing out the printer problem and getting backups... I'd be over on Linux more... --- Update to the previous post... Hey Rogan is there a good solution for backup for Linux? Something that backups everything including the hard drive structure?

It's the nut that mount the pump to the gear case... (Block side)

Good to hear they covered the work... I've got a funny feeling the steel line was just cut and the hose slipped on it... (No barb).

Wll I got to work on a 1994 Dodge Cummins... Need a valve lash job. Well I finally got a really good look at the P7100 Bosch Injection pump. That thing is a freaking monster. Total in the road for anything on the driver side of the engine. I was trying to even reach down to push the primer button on the lift pump and I just can't reach that thing.@ISX how in the hell do you make these things look so easy? :shrug:Like I found a oil leak from the injection pum its missing a nut on the block side and I'm not sure how in the hell to even get it back in there. Also what size of nut is it?

Hmmm... After looking around I'm stuck with a Windoze machine for my out of date Garmin GPS V... :banghead:

As for GPS software for linux... :shrug:I'm sure somewhere on the net there has to be something...

More boost... Cooler EGT's under heavier loads...