Mopar1973Man

Just be careful out there... This is not to be taking lightly... :nono:I'll just keep saying prayers here...

Everyone on the east coast please pay attention to your weather!

Thank you for confirming this...

Actually had already been warned by the ECM of the 2 issues... APPS code and the VP44 code... So actually it right on score.

Here is what I got on CCD networks... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/81-ccd-data-bus

Reason being is that the 98.5 to 02 Dodges tend to use a offset voltage for boost reading so it skews the SG or UG reading. JLandry is right you should consider a actual gauge for boost, fuel and pyrometer. Now on the CR engines the SG shows correct boost and rail pressure values...

How about this... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=221

From what I heard when you return the smarty back to stock you loose the speed calibration. But this is here-say...

Maybe I shouldn't talk... :rolleyes:CajFlynn gave me his old RV275 with over 450K miles on them had them pop tested in Lewiston, ID and they passed. The misfire issue I had was cause from dirt/debris in the pintle area. So far haven't had any problems... :shrug:Make me wonder If I'm borrowed time...

Click on the links above and they will take you to the diagnostic pages of each one or... Or go here and type the P codes in the title filter box and it will show each error and diagnostic... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes

You might be waiting awhile on information on Delphi lift pumps... Most people are running FASS, AirDog or Raptor fuel systems. But just maybe someone here might have some information...

Assumed... Because I UV check all the stuff under the hood and couldn't find any dye so I assumed the evaporator failed twice. Because after replacing it it ran great for over 9 months then failed again... :banghead:

Calibrate your speed on the ScanGauge II by using a GPS and have both display speed. Then go into the menu on ScanGauge II under setup and display speed. Then change the speed to match the GPS. Now you have a accuracte speedometer/odometer on the ScanGauge II... But this will not fix the stock cluster... Sorry...

P0237 code... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/167-p0237-map-sensor-voltage-too-low You might want to run through the diagnostics on that page... That could be the source of your limp mode and lack of power. When the ECM can't see the boost pressure it goes to limp mode to protect itself from damage...

Might be a good time to start a new thread on how you did your propane mod...

I've got black polyon line and can't see if there is air in the line or not. Did effect my reading at all...

The smell of burning oil might be just the vapors given off by certain engine oils. Like Rotella (Ro-Smella) has a very heavy oil smell almost like a tar smell when the engine is ruinning and vapors are blown off.As for the 2 cycle oil you could try it for the fuel system system and keeping it lubed up. But the 2cycle oil has nothing to do with the oil smell your getting most likely...

I want to see more of the propane setup... Mom and I are taking about more outdoor cooking and portable propane stoves that allow you to cook outdoors instead of inside where it gets rather warm on a hot summers day.

Your error code definitions are off slightly... So here is the links to diagnose it... It looks more like a CCD Network problem that a failed ECM / PCM at the moment...

The cabs might match up mount wise but I doubt the wiring and other stuff will... I would at least stay in the same range of body. 1998.5 to 2002 will all interchange...

Got you covered... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/39-timbos-apps-installing

I agree I would stick with Fleetguards, baldwin, donaldson, Luber Finer, etc... AH64ID has a table floating around on specs...

Here you go... Skip the snubber install the needle valve... As for wandering if its a electric sender then you might have to replace the sender due to being damage already. Mechanical gauges you know when youe set right because the gauge no longer is buzzing.

Russ is right about the pre-wired connector mine is also. The socket should be near the E-brake pedal. But being trailer brakes are electrical double check everything power wise and that the controller has power and its sending power to the trailer.

Sorry to say you need the $25 a quart stuff from the dealer. Castrol Syn-Torque... Part stores don't normally carry it.Now as for using something else there is conversy about if it effects the syncro's in the transmission. When in doubt use the proper fluid...