Mopar1973Man

Looks like its time for fresh hoses and fresh clamps. I know there isn't much slack to the heater hoses you might be able to cut that 1" off but getting the stretch to get it back on might not be there. Also when you buy new clamp don't get over zealous with the screwdriver. It take very little clamp force to seal a hose at 14-16 PSI. I don't know why I see people torque the clamp so hard the the rubber is squeezing out of the worm gear slots. This is wrong! Take notice ot the clamping force of the old spring clamps and you want about the same force.

So far even my factory return line is doing just fine at 17-19 PSI run span. I do not suggest going over 20 PSI because now your over running the return line and over pressurising the VP44 injection pump which is bad.

I'll admit since I crushed the spring coil slightly to create the oval on the ball end of the AirDog 150 I've had fairly consistent fuel pressure all winter and going into summer. So I'm still holding...Warm fuel19 PSI @ idle and 17 PSI WOTCold Fuel17 PSI @ idle and 15 PSI at WOT

Welcome to the family... I'm glad you finally came forward registered and started posting. That's the only way we can learn about you and your needs... Thank you for serving this country and be safe... But we'll be here when your ready to build up your dream truck...

I use to run factory Carter lift pumps with a big line kit they will hold well above 10 PSI at WOT. But even the Carter lift pumps won't last very long I ate three lift pumps in about 60K miles costing nearly $200 a pop. After that I upgraded to a AirDog and never had to worry about it again...

Maybe that's one of the few reason I got out of Cally back in 1990... Thanks for the update...

So there is no fuel at the VP44? So you must have a suction leak and the pump is not priming at all.

Your not going to like my answer... I bought the absolute cheapest brake pads and re-used my stock rotors after being turned. If I cleared 185K on OE brake pads and OE rotors I don't see any reason to spend more money on name brand parts. I know when Dodge builds these truck they use the cheapest parts they can to keep the profit margin up.I would say look into the exhaust brake since you do tow... Yes I know you would have to have a lockup controller for the transmission to make it work properly.

... or maybe your driving a Cummins Diesel! Seriously... Most noises you can isolate by seeing if it changes by acceleration, coasting, putting the transmission in neutral, etc. So if the noise changes it might give a clue to its location.

Welcome to the family... You happen to be from the biggest state that supports the site... Yep Texas is my number #1 state...

Something about see someone type fuel prices in a thread and it just "Oh Humm..." but its seem so much more realistic when you see pictures of the pump prices... :wow:Tell you the truth I would do the ScanGauge II before the injectors because even changing your driving habits will improve the MPG's really fast...

Here you go... http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/specs/glossary.htm

Does anyone know if the fuel gauge sender is like the Cummins version? May even a lead on where to get one for a good price? I've got a bad spot in the sender up near the 7/8 of a tank where the gauge drops to empty and then at about 3/4 of tank it pops back up and works again...

But remember ScanGauge II has a new feature coming soon... Datalogging USB function http://www.pureenergysystems.com/store/ScanGauge/USB.htm I'm not sure if UltraGauge can do this??? XGauges http://www.scangauge.com/support/x-gauge-commands/

ScanGauge or UltraGauge is a ultimate tool for MPG's... I can look at the instant display and train my right foot to get what every MPG's I want. Like I can now get 16-17 MPG in the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 or 21-22 MPG in the 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 (Cummins). When fuel is this expensive you must do what you can to gain all the MPG's you can... Diesel - $4.599 Unleaded - $3.929 Plus - $4.039 Supreme - $4.159 This picture was shot from the pump at New Meadows, ID - Chevron - April, 24 2012

Any hand math to confirm this or even a calibrated ScanGauge II?

Well they work awesome the grill has very little impact on the lighting. I've got video of it but working at figuring out Linux ways before firing up the Windows machine (yuk). I'll post the video ASAP... --- Update to the previous post... http-~~-//youtu.be/e0TfquTPNX8

XGauge is preferred... Ultra Gauge is another version of data tool like Scan with different features...

I'm surprised you did find a complete axle from a wrecking yard...

I've got the standard ScanGauge II... So far it worked awesome on both trucks (1996 and 2002). Like today I manage to make a loop down to Ontario, OR over to Nampa, ID and then back to New Meadows, ID at 16.7 MPG on the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 5.9L V8 Gasser...

THRacing is right you got to be careful of the truck of truck your running against. There is roughly 47 different ECM's out there so some may work good for testing and others might not work good at all...HO (6 speed)SO (5 Speed)SO (Automatic Trans)FederalCaliforniaCanadianList goes on...

Russ remember this is the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 (Gasser) there is lot more room behind that grill compared to the Cummins which has ZERO room...

That truely is awesome work... Wow! You are a handy man for RV projects. :wow:I'm sure that's going to be much nicer RV now because its built your way!

Holy Cow Russ...I love the cabinet owrk that's awesome. Even better yet the fact of where you stuffed the TP roll that is awesome. Heck sitting on my can I have a tough time with where the TP roll where its hanging now... :rolleyes:Then if you get any of those mega rolls you got to remove the roll to lift the lid...

As for the quick connects there has been issues with them leaking air in the past. So yes most people just cut the hose and hose clamp into place on the stock sender. But you'll be looking towards a drawstraw anyways.As for the extra plug...That's for the optional low pressure light that nobody wants to buy...