Mopar1973Man

In 10 years of owning my Cummins I've only seen the WIF light once... I use to check and drain the water seperator all the time but now I only check it at oil change time... Might find 1/4 ounce a water every 10K miles... But I'm really picky of the the places I purchase fuel from and also get to know the fuel station owner really well. I find out what filters he's using on the pumps, is he re-addizing the fuel (winterizied), how often he changes filters etc. Water is very low priorty compared to lubricity... You got to remember Dorkweed here is the man that started the 2 cycle oil craze... I'm the one that backed him up and kicked it home...

Actually I suggest against mixing products! DieselKleen is a solvent based injector cleaner and cetane booster. Then 2 cycle oil is a lubricant and cetane reducer. So you just neturalizing out the 2 products and coming out empty handed. Power Service Diesel Kleen scored very poorly in the HFRR test at 575 HFRR (only +60 gain). But 2 cycle oil socre really good at 474 HFRR (+162 Gain). Now take a sample of the PowerService and leave it out exposed to the air for a few day and tell me what you get? Do the same with 2 cycle oil and compare. The results will shock you!

Here's your smiley...

The only things that seem to fail... [*]Front speed sensors [*]Rear Speed sensor [*]Antilock Brake Computer So if the front speed sensors fail then the speedometer typically will work fine but requires both to be replace at once. If the rear speed sensor is bad you get a wonky speedometer that may or may not work. If the computer fails typically the ABS pump motor runs continueous...

Enuf Said!

Speed sensor going bad most likely... Here is more information on diagnosing this problem. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/23-brake-system/29-antilock-braking-system-abs If the speedometer is working properly then it most likely the front speed sensors going bad.

I've also got the extreme heat here in Idaho. Riggins, ID can reach 110-120*F in the summer time. But now toss in the extreme cold of heading towards New Meadows, ID and seeing -25*F... As for the Optimas the down fall is the loss of electrolyte from the cells once they dry out they are done. This is a down fall to any sealed / maintenance free batteries. Like my lawn tractor has so called sealed maintenance free battery. I peeled the label off that said "Maintenance Free" and under it was plastic plugs. Carefully I managed to lift all 6 plugs out to find the electrolyte level was down where you could see the top of the plates which explained way the batter was weak. So now adding distilled water to it and charged it back up for 24 hours on a 2 amp charge and she good as new again. Heck even my house batteries lasted 15 years... (Good ol' maintenance batteries are wonderful!)

Got you covered with a video and a article... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/27-hvac-heating-ventalation-and-air-conditioning/57-air-conditioning-evaporator-core-heater-core-replacement http-~~-//youtu.be/ghDbhJDBvkc

Welcome to the family... There is at least 1 member here that passed the 1 million mark with a 2001 Dodge... So hang around and learn from the other family members here.

Just looked at the FSM for the steering column and it doesn't seem to show any internal structure of the column. Just more or less the steering wheel, clock spring, multi-function switch, etc. But nothing internal...

:lmao2:"Who's Obama??"

By the sounds of it I still say look at the torque converter flexplate... Since is so random...If its internal (gears) it most likely would been doing it all the time... Also the fluid would tell you by the amount of debris in the pan.

Sound like the head is coming off soon...

Like a 93 truck I've got coming back to me with a minor injector leakage. Most likely the same thing... When I did the injector cleaning basic remove and install process but most likely got a crumb of dirt on one of the high pressure tubes... :rolleyes:Warranty work...

Welcome to the Family!

... and here is your sign!

Might look them up and see what the specs are...

Pine, Spruce, Alpine Fir, Red Fir, White Fir, Tamarack (Larch), Lodge Pole Pin... All Soft wood... Where else would they live? With you??? Screamin' Beavers don't like lumber... It's the beauty of watching the tree fall... Well... He's right I've heard of firewood thieves here even... But I've go no room to talk mine is right in the driveway...

Yeah I was just there today and seen it... Looks good! Sounds awesome... The cab sound isn't bad just at a idle or a light rev. More to come I'll be bringing my video camera with me down to the dyno event... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/5180-IDAHO-Spring-DYNO-DAY-29-MM-Saturday-March-17th-2012 Source... http://idahoturbodiesels.com/vb/showthread.php?t=9003

Mine's bigger...

Size is not going to matter much... What matters is the CCA you get and how you maintain your batteries and cables. When I got 10 years from stock batteries and cable and still had no real problems. So cramming a larger battery in really isn't going to gain you much. 2 ways to look at batteries "Amp Hours" and "Cold Cranking Amps"...Amp Hours is typically a measurement for RV or house batteries in how much power a battery can supply for a period of time. Cold Cranking Amps is how many amps the battery is capable of producing at 0*F... Also remember if you buy a 750 CCA batteries that number doubles because the way they are wired in paralell. So you would have 1,500 CCA... Like my cheap WalMart Batteries are 875 CCA so I've got 1,750 CCA. It all about how much power you got on a cold morning to twist the truck over.So even though you might cramp a group 31 it might only be 600 CCA... But who knows... :shrug:Then as for sealed batteries I'm not fond of them at all. There is no way to add distilled water back into the batteries. Like Optimas etc... So no matter what a battery will get gassy at one point or another and vent moisture it part of the life of a battery. That fact will never change no matter how much technology they throw at it. Every time you discharge a battery fairly deep and then allow the truck alternator to charge it again think about it 120 Amp of charging power it going to get gassy for sure.

I'm willing to try that... Thank you for the suggestion!

Mom and I are both like this. When we both feel that way we tend to listen to each other. But I'm typically the bold person of the family that dives out in an any kind of weather and tackles anything. But I've also been a stickler to make sure all my vehicles had a outside temp gauge. Anytime that temp falls below 35-37*F my speed is instantly reduced most likely way below speed limit posted. The temp gauge in my truck has a programmable alarm that I can set to alert me of ice. Idaho state does NOT have a minimum speed limit. So you may drive as slow as you wish. But Idaho does give out fines for sliding off the pavement. If you driving along a road say at 30-35 MPH the posted speed limit is 65 MPH and you slide off the pavement. It your fault for driving too fast for road conditions. So if you got to drive 25 MPH due to the road conditions - do it. People have this concept of if it post 65 MPH you got to drive that fast in the winter time. Another reason I own a manual transmission because it gives me percise control of torque and driving force. If the tires slip I can clutch in and allow the drivetrain to match the road again. Also I can force a high gear and hold a low RPM for traveling slick patches (low TQ). Where a automatic trans tend to bounce back and forth and if it shift harsh enough it could start a slide action. This especial helpful in climbing steep single lane canyon roads. Maybe it because every winter I take the trucks down to a very large pull out and play in the ice and snow to get that feel for slip and sliding so when it does occur it never spooks me. Like I said I very rarely ever use 4WD in the winter time. Never use chains either... 4WD to me is a safety fall back. If I got to engage 4WD driving on winter roads then I should consider going home because I don't belong there and I'm now pushing the safety limits. Remember I live where there is NO cell service, tow truck is at least 2 hours away, and winter temp can be as low as -20*F.

Basically what I was doing... I'd have a straight cut piece and a 45* (with the miter box) cut piece and measure for which I needed.. What amazed me was I had very little mistakes and consumed basically everything. Even small scrap piece found a home some where.

Some how the water seperator isn't doing its job or the the fuel has way too much water in it... That's the only way the overflow valve would become rusty.EDIT: Paying attention now I see you got a AirDog 100... Are you using the the stock filter also or not? Did you upgrade the water seperator?