Mopar1973Man

No prob... That's we are here for to help out and aid you through your projects.

The only time a pilot bearing is going to howl is when the clutch is pressed and the truck is sitting still because now the flywheel will be turning and the input shaft will not be turning. Pilot bearing will less likely to make noise as the truck is in motion. But when the bearing fails it would cause all kinds of shift problems too because the friction disc will no longer be lined up and dragging against the flywheel.So the only way to be sure is drop the trans. Like in my case I lost the center hub on my friction disc and it was leaning against the flywheel and made it really tough to shift in all gears but made no noises...

You really close to my setup...http://articles.mopar1973man.com/members-rides/17-mopar1973man/25-2002-dodge-ram-2500

Welcome to our family here... :hyper:Well hang around I'm sure that we can aid you into getting you economy built up better on your 99 Cummins...

Just get a hold of Eric at Vulcan Performance and he'll set you up with fresh fittings that work with the AirDog systems...

That's my thoughts too... If the pintle needle and the nozzle are just plain wore out then no matter what you do its not going to seal right...But since ISX had a pop bench a new nozzle and pintle needle would be a good fix for it.

Got say that pretty cool... :thumbup2:But I don't think you have much of a problem the pump fires much faster...

Grease gun hose will NOT absorb any water hammer... The hose would have to be capable of expanding and contracting to dampen pulse but a grease gun hose is rated for what? 4,000 - 5,000 PSI I hardly doubt it will do a darn thing... He's right Westach is a very plain jane gauge average price but don't require any dampening device. They are already design with it internally.

Once the clutch is engaged and your foot is off the pedal technically there should be no load on the TOB and shouldn't be making noise. But if you holding the clutch in at a light and it howling then you TOB is shot.

Water hammer damages both mechanical and electric gauges just the same... Doesn't matter. The non-adjustable orfice doesn't seem to protect as good as a needle valve when is adjustable. The gauge should rise up slowly. But most snubbers like you are using are not small enough and damage is still done to the sender or gauge. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=M33ZCc8b-7Q 7 year old DiPricol Mechanical and still going strong...

Here is a vid that might help... http-~~-//youtu.be/V0Q8qQ2UKRI Here is the list of pump rebuilders with a Bosch 815 test stand... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/247-bosch-certified-vp44-injection-pump-rebuilders So regardless of a new computer (PSG) is put on or not it MUST pass all test before it can even be re-programmed or sold...

Video wanted...

My numbers above are within a unheated garage at about 32-35*F. This goes to show you that just getting the vehicle in out of the blowing wind can make a difference in the performance of the block heater. Because of the amount of coolant and cast iron your heating just makes since to get it out of the wind if possible.

Yes you want to trick the wastegate but blocking the air from reaching the wastegate and then having a very tiny small hole on the wastegate side of the valve so it can still biuld pressure but has a hard time doing it.

Usually printed on the outside of the fleetguard can is 3/4 of a turn after contact is made... :wink:But in your spot I would be leery of the filter nipple...

Someone else enjoying the idea of of my bright backup lights. Now you got to add a bypass switch and then your all set for hitching trailers in the dark of the night... Hex is right shrink tube and solder are your friend...

From that page... Then you can step over to the OBD page and test it out... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes

Hmmm... Diesel Auto Power TH Racing KT Performance FTE Diesel And many more... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/mopar1973mans-dealer-contacts/12-dealers--vendors Any of the vendors here are good choices... Just a matter of prices... I'm sure any of these vendors will stand behind there product they sell you! Note to self... Update the vendor list...

That threaded stub should be replaceable... Someone else would have to comfirm it though...

Odd... Must be a 3rd Gen issue... ScanGauge works on the 24V 2nd Gens no issues here except you got to shut the engine down and turn the key to ON then you can clear codes.

Other than Lucas test poorly in the HFRR testing... Bosch requires 450 HFRR or less for good performance... Lucas scored 641 HFRR http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/68-hfrr-testing-of-common-diesel-fuel-additives 2 cycle Oil scored 474 HFRR (200:1 ratio) I know 128:1 ratio is much lower more like 380-400 HFRR.

I got it for ya... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/49-fuel-pressure-specification-for-bosch-vp44-injection-pumps I should break it out into its own article...

From what I see it looks ok... Magnets don't have chunks on them...:rolleyes:How about the rest of ya...

Might be worth just reposting them... Just leave them orginal size...

Could you post a link of what you looking at... Maybe a picture of what your working with... I'm at least curious... That's nothing...