Mopar1973Man

Since we had a break in the weather and needed to run to New Meadows, ID for supplies for this weekends project on the guest house we figured we let the dog run around while its nice. So here we are on Smokey Boulder road at last years camping spot. http-~~-//youtu.be/gFNZfxL5Qc4 This post goes along with this post too... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/5810-1996-Dodge-Ram-16-17-MPG-is-reality!?p=53825#post53825

Ok another outing... http://g.co/maps/h9ufq Weather much colder... 38-42*F, wind blowing quite forceful, raining in pockets, etc...

Time to take a trip over to Tractor Farm and Family and talk to TFF Admin (LiveOak Here).

You got a problem on that leg of the CCD network it show be roughly 2.4-2.5 volts. So double check and make sure there is no other shorts... Might be a damaged device (Overhead console, radio, etc.)

Is the P0216 code present? As for fuel pressure you need to be above 14 PSI under WOT operation for good VP44 life span. 10 PSI is the bare minimum and most times will cause damage any ways because of lack of return fuel flow because the overflow valve is closed below 14 PSI so cooling and lubing is gone so damage occurs. Keep it in the green... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/49-fuel-pressure-specification-for-bosch-vp44-injection-pumps

Don't do that and screw up your MPG's... Aggressive tread patterns tend to increase rolling resistance. Then larger/heavier tire increase rotational mass. Like the tire/rims on my truck are 62 pounds a piece. Also like on the 96 Dodge Ram 1500 I found that just cleaning up the nose of the truck and hidding my fog lamp in the grill and putting the air dam back on gain me nearly another +1 MPG. Aerodynamics are extremely important!

I'm sorry... :banghead: Wasn't paying attention... :banghead:

-REMOVED- Wrong fuel system

No need to do that... All you do is ruin the tires and ruin the ride. On a empty truck 50-60 PSI is more than enough.

You can leave the stock wiring to the alternator attached but the green wire will most likely require to be cut going back to the PCM. The blue wire is the +12V for the regulator but the green shouldn't have any other contact with other devices but the alternator and the live regulator. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/134-voltage-regulator-mod

Double check the red/green wire at the injection pump for +12V power also check the relay by swapping it out. Scan tool might show that the ECM is triggering but the relay, fuse or wiring might have a problem too.

Now you know why my Edge Comp stays on 5x5 (Max'ed) out.. I see the same results.

190*F is the stock temp. I change my thermostat every coolant change which normally occurs every year. (30K miles)

:duh:Geez... That suxs... I have work done for a head gasket and then to have it leaking again. No matter how I see it someone cut corners and forget to magi-flux the head and check for cracks while the head was off or it wasn't surfaced flat again.

Strange... I've never ran out of fuel ever... :shrug:Even when my fuel gauge started acting up I could see the wild movements and strange behaviour so I would just hook up the ScanGauge II and use it for my temporary fuel gauge. Like right now my 1996 has a damaged gauge and the ScanGauge II is hooked up over there now.

As a matter of fact I just past the owner of the truck this morning if I had time I would of found when I could get a hold of it. But now I'll have to wait till evening and see if I can catch him...

Another run I had to do today. I ran out to Donnelly, ID and then back to McCall, ID then home. http://g.co/maps/k7gne Here is the report... Cmg = Today's MPG Tmg = Total MPG for the tank I'll continue to post my travels for this tank.

Like I told Dripley...

You lucky though... I've also got rolling mountains and grades to travel over. I've got more of a challenge fo getting good MPG's when I'm climbing from 2,800 ft elevation to 5,200 ft just to go to McCall, ID for some quick grocery shopping. Any direction I go I got to climb grades 5% to 7% is the typical for highway out here but it not just for 1-2 miles it might be for several miles if not more. So now for me to pull 16-17 MPG with this kind of terrain and being gasser I'd say I'm doing quite well. http://g.co/maps/q84ua

Suggestion: You'd be best to reduce the tire size than increase it also not to install a leveling kit for MPG reasons. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/5810-1996-Dodge-Ram-16-17-MPG-is-reality!

I'm curious too...

All right here... http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/

Either electric or mechaincal the load is placed on the engine either at the belt pulley for the mechanical or at the alternator for the electrical. So no matter what you now have two fans to power on the engine now. I would rig the electric fan to only come on with the compressor if your looking to gain back from some of the load.

This is where I would have to past it off to someone else... I've never had to even mess with my vacuum pump yet... Anyone else capable of helping Ron?

I'm a big fan of stealth plates because the wire is not molested and you don't have to worry about a weather tight seal being the tap is done behind the plate tapping into the VP44.