Mopar1973Man

Axle bearings, wheel seals, knuckle boots are a really PITA but its a common failure. You'll end up with gear lube soaked brakes and drums. Engine wise they are nearly bullet proof. The turbo charged engine are MUCH stronger than the non-turboed. They are not know for high road speeds (Max of about 55 MPH) but they will pull huge amount of weight without thinking twice... Injection pump is simular to the ol' VE pump in the first gen once you look at you'll understand what I mean. Here is Water Tender 6

Figures you would do that... :lmao:But still it gives me a project to work on this winter to get that beast back like it was when I first got it. I was seeing 16-17 MPG. I'm waiting for weather to straighten out for a few days so I can get to Boise, ID for oil and other stuff.

THe local fire dept has 3 Deuce and a Half truck used for water tenders... What you want to know since I did the maintenance on them for over 6 years...

All I can say is a internal ECM problem because once the ECM is replaced the problem goes away...

Yeah there is a post here about the 3.9L cam chain problem too. I know the 5.9L doesn't have that particular problem but it would be worth looking at the condition of the cam chain.But since I done the plenum gasket and got it done it runs a whole lot better but the MPG's around here short tripping and with the cold is about 12-14 MPG at best. But with diesel at $4.499 and gas at $3.629 I drive a gaser...

So I gather you never found another bracket?How about a picture of what you done?

There should be a green and blue wire going to the field wire of the alternator. The blue wire should be hot 12V when the engine is running and the green wire should be a variable ground. Now the PCM is the voltage regulator so if the alternator is still not working right you might end up doing a old school regulator or changing out the PCM. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/voltage-reg/voltage-reg.htm

Here is ISX writeup... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=20:engine-valve-lash-adjustments&catid=8&Itemid=106

Stock radio fell out of the dash within the first month of ownership... I've got a like new stock cassette deck sitting in my garage... :whistle:I held on to it because if the day comes to sell the rig I will stick it back in and pull out my kenwood...

Grid heater draw 195 Amps when functional... The alternator can only produce 120 Amps.. So there will be voltage drop and this is now based on how strong your batteries and condition of the battery cables. Any weakness in either will show with more voltage drop. This is how I power my house with 820 Ah's worth of batteries weighing in at 1,000 pounds... (double ought Cables too!) So I got a really good understanding of batteries and loads... Like since I'm 24V system here and the house has a max of 4,000w than means my max draw is 166 Amps... Grid heater consume 2,340w at 12 Volts... Anyway you slice it that is a huge amount of power being such from 2 smaller batteries and 1,440 watt alternator.

This is the 24V IAT sensor values which might just work for ya...[TABLE][TR][TD=width: 50%, bgcolor: #3870cc]Temperature[/TD][TD=width: 50%, bgcolor: #3870cc] Resistance[/TD][/TR][TR][TD=width: 50%] 13°F[/TD][TD=width: 50%] 56K ohms[/TD][/TR][TR][TD] 26°F[/TD][TD] 39K ohms[/TD][/TR][TR][TD=width: 50%] 87ºF[/TD][TD=width: 50%] 7.4K ohms[/TD][/TR][TR][TD=width: 50%] 91°F[/TD][TD=width: 50%] 6.8K ohms[/TD][/TR][TR][TD=width: 50%] 100°F[/TD][TD=width: 50%] 5.6k ohms[/TD][/TR][TR][TD=width: 50%] 107°F[/TD][TD=width: 50%] 4.7K ohms[/TD][/TR][TR][TD=width: 50%] 112°F[/TD][TD=width: 50%] 4.3K ohms[/TD][/TR][TR][TD=width: 50%] 119ºF[/TD][TD=width: 50%] 3.6K ohms[/TD][/TR][TR][TD=width: 50%] 123ºF[/TD][TD=width: 50%] 3.3K ohms[/TD][/TR][TR][TD=width: 50%] 127ºF[/TD][TD=width: 50%] 3.0K ohms[/TD][/TR][TR][TD=width: 50%] 132ºF[/TD][TD=width: 50%] 2.7k ohms[/TD][/TR][TR][TD] 143°F[/TD][TD] 2.2k ohms[/TD][/TR][TR][TD] 148°F[/TD][TD] 2.0k ohms[/TD][/TR][TR][TD] 163°F[/TD][TD] 1.5k ohms[/TD][/TR][TR][TD] 173°F[/TD][TD] 1.2k ohms[/TD][/TR][TR][TD] 184°F[/TD][TD] 1.0k ohms[/TD][/TR][/TABLE]

I'm glad my video worked for you and got the job done...

Dang... Another one...

Yeah it might be true that the ground connector gets weak and creates a issue... But still it would be better to fix the connector than remove it. Or protect it with di-electric grease from future problems.

Looks good... I'm really waiting to see a picture of you plowing snow or something it would be awesome to add to the random member pics...

Holy cow... I had to look it up myself and those little buggers are torqued to 18 ft/lbs... I would never think to torque them that tight... Maybe 5-6 ft/lbs (60-72 inch/pounds)...

Little confused here... 01 24V and a 12V of what year??? :banghead:As for the 24V I would dump a hot 190*F thermostat in it and change the coolant at the same time. 24V like the engine to be nice and hot. Even in the dead of winter I still see 195-197*F with -25*F weather using winter fronts.Any error codes?

No problem... I put a twist on this and hooked up right on the studs there in the PDC for the battery lead. This way I did have wires going all the way to the alternator like Gassenomore and not hooked directly to the battery like you I6Freak but the say clean on corrosion free like Gassernomore.

Wow another one in Idaho... Just awesome... Now knowing that I got to hook up with a few of you...

Just bench test your current alternator before buying a new one... Save some money if you can!

Here you go guys and gals... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/forums/121-Canada Forum for the Canucks...

Well you wish is my command... I'll add a canada forum for ya... Yeah I do have a few but didn't think about it...

You can but leave the switch off during cranking. If the switch is on during cranking the pressure will be too high and the truck will fail to start. Hence why the cranking voltage is modulated to 50% duty cycle to reduce lift pump ressure. My grid heater as in place but disabled electronically. No code... As for the grid heater they maybe active because the manifold air is colder yet. Remember the cast iron block hold cold for a very long time. As for cold start with my grid heater disabled I can start down to 30-32*F easy without missing a beat... But the coldest I can start from is +25*F and then it starts to miss and shake getting going. At that point I trigger the grid heater with my high idle switch before I turn the key on...

:wow:Hang on a second...Before chopping up any wiring just remember these truck ran 9-10 years without wiring mods and did just fine. So now all of a sudden require a bunch of hacking and cutting, adding grounds, etc... I don't thinks so.I still say to look for the issue at hand and not cover it up with a bunch of band-aids like adding grounds, filters, and tin foil...

Nice setup... I remember the days of having the red light on the roof of my truck and running for the fire dept... Now I got a LED mini bar hanging from my rear view mirror and work for the local sheriffs dept (Search and Rescue)